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Published: March 17th 2009
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Wednesday 11 March - We stayed at a site in Te Anau last night so only a short drive to Manapouri where we start our trip to Doubtful Sound. It was a very cold wet night and when we set off today the temperature was only 6 degrees and you could see quite a lot of snow on the mountains. It had started to brighten up a bit when we reached Manapouri. The first part of our trip involved catching a ferry (catamaran) across the lake (1hr journey) then a bus across Wilmot Pass (30 mins) to meet up with our overnight cruise ship The Fiordland Navigator. Lovely ferry crossing and we disembarked at the Visitors Centre next to Manapouri Dam and underwater power station. On to the bus and Ray our driver gave a witty laconic commentary. Stopped to looki at an ancient Beech Tree (600 - 1000 years old) which was used in Lord of the Rings. Steep road down to the quay past a lot of waterfalls due to all the recent rain. Our vessel was already moored up waiting for us so grabbed our rucksacs and boarded this lovely dark blue vessel.
After being welcomed aboard
we were taken to our overnight cabin - WOW - luxury, warm, crisp white towels, ensuite etc. Back to main lounge for tea/coffee and fresh muffins. Brief resume of trip and intro to crew and off we went. Words can’t describe the beauty of the Sound - so many photo opportunities and Julie, our nature guide/expert gave a running informative commentary assisted by the captain. After a short while we embarked on our activities either a nature trip in the Tenders or Kayaking. Tony and I kayaked - it was absolutely brilliant - so peaceful and calm. After about 40 mins we returned to the vessel and 3 hardy people swam (it was pretty cold). Kayaks and tenders loaded back on vessel - wet clothes changed for dry ones and back on deck. Headed out towards the Tasman Sea entrance - it was getting quite choppy - saw loads of seals on rocky islands.
7.30pm dinner (we had already had bowls of hot soup at about 6.00pm!) - a fabulous buffet with variety and quality of a 5 star hotel followed by choice of freshly made deserts and/or cheese and biscuits - what a meal. After dinner moved into
the observation lounge for a talk/slide show by our nature guide Julie. Fabulous slides and witty informative talk. Another coffee before heading for our luxury cabin for shower and bed as breakfast was between 7.00 and 8.00am and Lyn wanted to be up to see the sun rise!!!
(Thursday 12th March) 6.15 am woken by anchor being raised and engines started! Showered, dressed in warm clothes and on deck to see sun rise. Not much sunshine but a beautiful light across the Sound. Then down to the lounge for fantastic cooked breakfast with all the trimmings. The crew are all multi-tasking and go out of their way to make it run like a 5 star hotel. Back on deck - pod of Bottlenose Dolphins swam up close and under the vessel. Then saw some Crested Penguins swimming before they dived. Another pod of Dolphins appeared - wonderful. Then everything switched off (engine, generators, phones, cameras) whilst we drifted in complete and utter silence broken only by bird calls and waterfalls. MAGIC MOMENT! (Lyn moved to tears). Finally back to the quay to disembark at about 10.00am - crew all lined up to wave farewell - made you feel very
Fjordland Navigator
as seen from a kayak special and that you were the only passengers ever! We wrote in the book “If you are only able to take one trip in NZ then this is THE ONE”
Friday 13th March - River rafting down the Shotover River. Picked up by minibus - we were the oldest by far! Reached base where we were kitted out with wetsuits, boots, jackets, life jackets and helmets. On to another minibus - about a 45min journey to river start point. Dust/gravel road, very narrow, incredible heights, incredible sheer drops - never been on a road/track like it - it was carved out by the Chinese for the gold rush in 1868.
Safely reached the river where we were gathered together for a safety briefing. Whilst there helicopter came zooming round the gorge to land next to us - very impressive as he was only 20/30 feet up and really close to the cliff face. Our raft guide Kyle was an American who had been in NZ for 9 years. Pushed the raft off and then down the Shotover Gorge. Lots of practice at paddling, holding on, moving about etc before we got to the rapids. Not very good team effort
to start with and 14yr old Luke who was in front of Lyn didn’t seem very interested in the whole thing!
First rapid called “Mother” really exciting and negotiated quite well. In between rapids Kyle tells us all about the history of the old gold miners pointing out bits of equipment which still remain there. 2nd rapid “Jaws” just wild water and exhilaration! Then into a tunnel - literally 175 metres of narrow tunnel cut out of rock. Out of tunnel and into the biggest and last rapid “The Big Drop” . Instead of leaning forward Luke lent backwards and cracked Lyn on her nose with his helmet. The end of an incredible trip - just as well as blood pouring from Lyn’s nose - mopped her up and went for a pizza in Queenstown then back to the site at Wanaka.
Saturday 14th March - Leisurely start to the day, Lyn’s nose less swollen(!) so decided to go to the A&P Show (Agricultural Show) in Wanaka. It was just like the Dorchester Show of old - lots of farmers, stock and a John Deere stand where a lot of people were meeting!! At the end of a really
hot day horses were just being ridden into the lake to cool off - some so far out they had to swim. Free camped that night next to a fast flowing River Clutha - Tony tried fishing and lost 2 spinners (one in the trees and one in the rocks)!! Just up the road was a better place called ‘Pinders Pond’ - should have guessed this would be more suitable!
PS Have also included some Balfour photos that we forgot in last Blog.
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Chris
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Sound...
What an amazing trip on the sound, always said when I go back would like to do overnight trip on the sound, very jealous! Keep the updates coming great reading and an excuse to stop working for a bit! Take care!