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Published: September 4th 2008
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Speed Limit
.......and hit me with a $80 fine for travelling a couple of points over the speed limit. Having booked tickets for a 11am cruise on Milford Sound it was imperative we got an early start. Eventhough Milford is only 120kms north Te Anau, we were advised to allow at least two hours driving time due to the winding road and possible weather conditions. Before we left Te Anau we stopped for breakfast at very nice bakery, in the main street a large digital clock/thermometer advised us it was minus three degrees, and it sure did feel like it...it was freezing.
It is Saturday morning, so it is no wonder we were the only ones on the street at 7.30am. After enjoying breakfast we headed off toward Milford Sound, as reached the outskirts of the town we had not seen another person let alone another car except the local "Mr Plod" who jumped out from behind a tree and hit me with a $80 fine for travelling a couple of points over the speed limit. Fair enough....do the crime, do the time... but 8 am on a minus three degree, Saturday morning.......???? After a start like this...the day can only get better....and it did!
As we left Te Anau behind us, the freezing cold weather became quite evident
Frosty
.....the freezing cold weather became quite evident with the countryside covered with a thick white frost with the countryside covered with a thick white frost. The road follows the edge of Lake Te Anau for about 30kms to Te Anau Downs, a small rural community, before veering away and entering the Fiordland National Park, close to the headwaters of the Eglinton River. The road follows the river through lush temperate rain forests with towering trees creating kilometres of a forest canopy with the floor covered in giant ferns. At the tiny hamlet, Cascade Creek the road leaves the river and begins the ascent into the Southern Alps. From this point, the road narrows considerably and next 40 kms to Milford Sound becomes a real challenge for drivers.
As the road twists and winds its way into the snow covered mountains the most stunning and spectacular vistas greet you around every bend. At the top of the ascent there is the Homer tunnel that is gouged a kilometre through the Homer Saddle. The tunnel is single lane, but is wide enough for buses and motorhomes, a sign at the entrance tells you to switch on your vehicles lights as once you enter it becomes pitch black. Vehicles travelling to Milford Sound have right of way through the
Homer Tunnel
......At the top of the ascent there is the Homer tunnel that is gouged a kilometre through the Homer Saddle. tunnel while those travelling from MS must pull in to one of three parking bays cut into the rock face along the length of the tunnel and give way to oncoming traffic. On leaving the tunnel you are faced with an extremely steep and twisting descent into Milford Sound....reeks havoc on your brakes. As the road flattened out, I was really pleased to drive past the sign post welcoming us to Milford Sound.
Milford Sound (Piopiotahi in Māori) is a fjord in the south west of New Zealand's South Island, within Fiordland National Park and the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage site. It has been judged the world's top travel destination in an international survey, and is acclaimed as New Zealand's own most famous tourist destination.
Milford's land based infrastructure is very basic, consisting of the visitors centre, a very impressive cruise terminal, and airport with a single east/west runway along the water edge. All the attraction is out on the water. We parked in the car park at the visitors centre, and sat staring in amazement at the stunning, spectacular vista in front of us. From the Visitor Centre,a bus shuttles us to the cruise terminal via the airport
Stunning Scenery
.......and sat staring in amazement at the stunning, spectacular vista in front of us. to up pick passengers that have flown in from Queenstown to join our cruise. There are several cruise/tour operators offering tours of Milford Harbour. We chose to use Milford Sound Red Boat Cruises on "The Pride of Milford" a state-of-the art catamaran that has been designed with extensive viewing decks where you can enjoy the magnificent scenery in total relaxation and comfort. The cruise takes about 2hrs,and travels down the southern side of the Sound out into the Tasman Sea and returns up the northern side taking in some of the most magnificent scenery imaginable. Milford Sound runs 15 kilometres inland from the Tasman Sea and is surrounded by sheer rock faces that rise 1,200 metres or more on either side. Lush rain forests cling precariously to these cliffs, while seals, penguins, and dolphins frequent the waters. With a mean annual rainfall of 6,813 mm on 182 days a year, a high level even for the West Coast, Milford Sound is known as the wettest inhabited place in New Zealand and one of the wettest in the world. Rainfall can reach 250 mm during a span of 24 hours. The rainfall creates dozens of temporary waterfalls (as well as a
Inside Cruise Boat Terminal
.......consisting of the visitors centre, a very impressive cruise terminal, and airport ........ number of major, more permanent ones) cascading down the cliff faces, some reaching a thousand metres in length. Smaller falls from such heights may never reach the bottom of the sound, drifting away in the wind. Rain definitely was not going to spoil our day.
The freezing cold morning had developed into a glorious sunny day, with a blue cloudless sky as we pulled away from the wharf and cruised out into the mirrored waters of the Sound. So good were the conditions, the Captain proclaimed in his commentary that it was the best day on the water he had seen for six months. We enjoyed eating a delightful buffet lunch on board while making sure we did not miss any of the fabulous sights.
At the conclusion of the cruise, we looked around the terminal and were surprised at the number of visitors waiting to board the cruise boats. Instead of taking the bus back to the car park, we walked through the thick rain forest along a boardwalk enclosed under the forest canopy...absolutely stunning. Time to climb aboard the motorhome and begin the four hour return trip back to Queenstown, our overnight stopover.
The drive from
Pride of Milford
......their vessel "The Pride of Milford" a state-of-the art catamaran that has been designed with extensive viewing decks where you can enjoy the magnificent scenery in total relaxation and comfort. Milford Sound back to Te Anau was a lot more enjoyable, with no time constraints we were able to stop and take in some of the stunning scenery and enjoy the magic weather we were experiencing..... The Mirror Lakes are well worth the short walk to have a look. Refuelled at Te Anau, spotted the same "copper" manning his speed gun, did not get me this time. Continued the journey and finally arrived in Queenstown at sunset. The drive along the edge of Lake Wakatipu with sun setting in the west was absolutely spectacular... one of the highlights of our trip so far.
We stayed overnight at "Creeksyde" Top 10 Holiday Park in central Queenstown. Sites were very small, the motorhomes were stacked in like sardines. Amenities were average, but the positive was the park was in walking distance to restaurants, shopping and entertainment.
Looking forward to exploring Queenstown tomorrow!!
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