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Published: January 26th 2006
Kiakoura
Well. I finished up a great stay at Kiakoura. The hostel I stayed in was pretty nice. For about $14 US I had a bunk with a pillow and comforter, shower, TV room, nice kitchen, a deck on the back with a nice view of the countryside, a swimming pool, a jacuzzi, and a Thai resteraunt. Oh and free pastries from the bakery next door at their closing. I went on an early morning whale watch and saw 4 giant Sperm whales. They are the largest of the whales and dive deeper than any other whale. They can dive up to 3000 meters. It was a beautiful day for a boat ride and whale watching. I was back by 10am. A quick stop and then I biked down to a seal colony at the end of the peninsula. Its a rocky point and home to Fur Seals. Very cute but large seals. They are quite tame here. They even offer "swimming with Seals" and "Swimming with Dolphins". I enjoyed the view for awhile and then headed back to town for a cup of coffee and a ride along the shoreline. I finished up the day with a swim in the pool and a jacuzzi.
Kiakoura to Mt. Lyford
The next day I started peddling again. 40+ miles through a valley between mountains. It started off with a gradual climb. I thought this isn't bad what was everyone talking about when they said it was hilly. Then I found out and I descended and climbed out of numerous river valleys. 4 which were 100 meter climbs and who knows how many more smaller ones. The last climb out of the Conway river gorge put me over Whales Back Pass. I met a couple of women bikers on their way up. I asked where Mt. Lyford Lodge was. They said "Just around the corner". Hmmm, I made it down to the creek at the bottom of the hill. I stopped and then without hesitation dunked myself down into the cool waters. It was hot and muggy. I took a break and headed out. They were literally saying around the corner. I rounded the corner and there was the Lodge at the bottom of the ski hill and not at the top. Wheehooo!
I got a bunk for $26 NZ. It was Sunday and the only people there were the workers who were taking a break and having a drink or two. I almost had the place to myself. The folks at the lodge were great. One of the workers asked me how much my gear weighed. I said about 40kg. Whoa, he said. That is some weight. I took my bike and trailer into the bunk room with me. He inquired behind me. "YOu goin to sleep with your bike instead of a boyfriend". I replied. The bike is better company than a boyfriend (o:. They all laughed. I cooked up Pesto pasta and some pita bread and was greeted by Snow, the owners white small Samoyed type dog. He was looking for handouts to morsels that might have strayed to the floor while I was cooking. He was not the least bit interested in pets but was more than happy to eat anything I might give him.
After dinner I went down and talked to the locals. They were great. They educated me about how to get around those darn turnpikes. Go left unless you want to go right. Ok. That clears everything up for me. The blond gal ran the horse trekking. They tried to talk me into staying and going horseback riding the next day. I declined as my bum was very sore from riding and I don't think it would have felt that great to go horseback riding. We exchanged info about our lives and their company was great. Keith, a retired man, who works part-time at the lodge and I stuck up a conversation. He had traveled all over the world and had a good friend in Seattle. He was headed back to Christ church the next morning and invited me to come over to visit him and his wife and have an authentic NZ dinner. I said I'd definitely give him a call when I got into Christchurch. Feeling guilty about not ordering dinner at the lodge because I had to lighten the load I was carrying I decided to order desert and spent more time talking to Keith, Lisa (the Caretaker), and two others. Then everyone left and I had the place to myself. On the hill across the road from the lodge was a small mountain. I had heard sheep bleeting but until Keith pointed it out I didn't realize that on the hill were 3000 sheep who had just been separated from their lambs. They were bleeting trying to find their lambs. I looked and the entire mountain was covered with sheep. Literally a blanket of sheep. A baa baa here and a baa baa there. Here a baa, there a baa.......YOu get the rest. I put ear plugs in that night. It was novelty for me but I could see it could get old quick. So I said good night to the sheep and headed off to bed.
Mt. Lyford to Cyclist's Retreat
I was up at 0600 the next morning for an early departure to beat the heat. Then I ran into my first mechanical. There was a tiny metal burr in the hole that the pin that attached the trailer arm to the quick release had to go through. The pin wouldn't go through. I tried everything to get the hole clear. About an hour later. Lisa, the lodge caretaker, was up and I asked if she had a drill. She did but ofcourse the size I needed wasn't there. Luckily Keith was still at the lodge and he came to the rescue. He had a power drill. In no time flat the burr was gone and I was on the road.
Today's ride flatter with more downhill riding. It was a warm morning. I passed a scarecrow woman on a bicycle at the entrance of a farm. Speeding by I didn't have time to stop and take a photo. I made it to the main hwy 1 and the temperature started to rise. The thermometer on my odemeter read 100 deg. The tar on the road was melting and popping under my tires. It was a hot ride on flat open road with no cover.
I made it to the Cyclist's Retreat about 130p. The owners, Brian and Julia Sullivan are a retired couple who bought a 10 acre farm in the small town of Waikari. The husband has cycled all over the world and New Zealand. He is 71 years old and still competes in long distance races and does touring.
They welcomed me into there house and immediately gave me cold orange juice and snacks. Then I took a shower and they made me coffee. I had an enoyable afternoon talking to them about cycling and life in our countries. Their grandson sam was visiting so he gave me a tour of their farm. We went and fed the ducks and chickens. The ducks then proceded to follow us up the hill to the sheep paddock. Sam and I and 10 ducks walking up the hill. They were quacking all the way up. Sam moved the sheep from one area to another. I watched an expert herder in action. He managed to get those sheep moved without the aid of herding dog.
The Sam took me to the top of the hill on their property where they had a bench built. We sat there and looked out over the valley below and the mountains in the distance. It was really quiet and peaceful up there. Then it was back down for more touring.
Dinner was incredible. They fed me a feast of salmon, salad, and patatoes. For dessert we had a Rhubarb crisp that was so tasty I had to have seconds and didn't feel a moment of guilt after the long day of riding. Everything was fresh from their farm except the salmon. Brian and I then sat down with my map and he showed me the best routes to take for my trip. It was great. I had an expert touring cyclist and someone who knew how to cycle New Zealand helping me plan the rest of my trip. Its just amazing how great all the people I've met and have been.
I was up at 0500 to beat the heat. We had breakfast. More great food. By the way did I tell you this only cost me $40 NZ. The food alone was as best as any restaurant I could have eaten in.
Christchurch
I rode the last 74 kph to Christchurch. It was a pretty boring ride until I got close to the motorway and then the crazy traffic kept me on my toes. I made good time with a tailwind and made it to Christchurch by noon. Oh, by the way. Never use a light weight racing saddle to tour on. I had been in a state or torturous pain since day 1. So much so that I knew that if I didn't do something all my cycling would be spent trying to find a position on the seat that didn't make my bum scream. So... the first thing I did was ride to Papanui Cycles and by a big fat gel seat cover. I put that on, got on my bike and it felt like heaven. A sense of relief fell over me and I now knew I could cycle the rest of the island without having to block the pain.
After that I headed right to Cathedral Square, the center of Christchurch. I arrived to find the square full of people milling around a mime. It is apparently the "World Busker's Festival" right now in Christchurch and there are shows everywhere. I found a Starbucks and took a break. Watching people walk by and listening to the crowds laughter and a street musician strumming and singing Sheryl Crow songs. I immediately liked Christchurch. The energy was mellow and it had a feel of history to it with its old Cathedral and town square.
After a break I went in search of a hostel. I finally found one near the square that turned out to be kind of neat in a old buidling sort of way but definitely a dive. I stayed there the first night and then moved to the Frauenreisehaus Women's Hostel. Great old house, great energy. There is a courtyard in the back with a grassy area, chairs, flowers, and a "witch crossing" sign. Very relaxing.
Akaroa
Today I took a shuttle to Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula east of Christchurch. Its a sleepy little village along the bay. I arrived and found a good hike in the hills above. Walking through the forest it was filled with the sound of cicadas and song birds. I finally spent some time looking at the native "Bush" (forest) of the area and the surrounding mountains. I hiked up pretty far and got a view of the town below and the bay. I finally made it to the top of one hill to a little hut with benches and a roof for sitting under and enjoying the view. I figured I'd head of a side trail a ways and see if it went down a different way. There was an old cemetary and park area. I met an older couple. The husband was dropping her wife off so she could hike down the hill while he went bowling (not the bowling were used to. It includes astroturf). Anyway I said I was thinking about doing the wildlife cruise but needed to get back down to town in 45 minutes. The woman offered me a ride with her husband. He was heading down to town. She told me he was safe. I said they looked pretty safe to me. Anyway he dropped me off in town and I went out on a sailboat for 2.5 hours to the end of the harbour. It was calm in the harbor and then windy with big swells at the entrance. It was great. I relaxed on the deck laying on my stomach and just rolling with the movement of the boat. I took photos of the surrounding terrain. Every once in awhile the Hector dolphins would swim in front of the bow catching a free ride in our wake. There were a number of mother's dolphins and their babies. Teaching them the ropes. How to surf for free. We saw a few leap out of the water. We saw two different species of penquins and a few other sea birds.
The new owner of the boat was on board. He is from New York. He is also a volunteer firefighter at the local volunteer fire department. He quit his corporate job and moved to NZ, opened a hostel and is now taking on the ownership of the sailboat and tour business. I had to catch my shuttle back to Christchurch or I would have gotten a tour of the local firestation and trucks. Bummer. Oh well, many more between here and Auckland.
So I arrived back in Christchurch tired and happy. I'm trying to wrap up this blog because I need to get packed for my next adventure. River rafting on the Rangitata river which is southwest of Christchurch. They are picking me up and transporting me, my bike, and my gear to their river lodge. Then I'll have an exciting day of class 3-5 rapids in the river gorge. We'll see if its true that the kiwis are crazy rafters. I've heard stories from local river guides for years about the on the edge attitude of the kiwis. Is it true? Well that will be my next entry.
See ya for now.
Backyard Adventure Girl
Lisa
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Len & Sheri
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WOW- Fantastic Time!
Sounds like you are having a tremendous adventure! We're living through your words and smiling with each new discovery. Enjoy!