South Island Sensation - New Zealand - July 2018

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South Island Sensation – New Zealand, July 2018



After my recent visit to Auckland and the North Island, I couldn’t wait to visit the southern one to experience the differences in these incredible South Pacific Islands. From wildlife to wineries, from glacial valleys to star-filled skies…. nature’s best flourishes against a palette of dramatic scenes. Here, towering alps meet peaceful sounds and rugged coastlines merge with sweeping plains. And let’s not forget the backbone of this island…. the most down-to-earth locals you will ever meet, anywhere



For a new experience, I flew on a Delta partner airline – Virgin Australia. It’s a direct flight from Los Angeles to Brisbane and after a short stopover there, on to Christchurch. I couldn’t have picked a better departure date: starting today for the next 4 days, Las Vegas will be under a “severe heat warning” with temperatures touching 113-115f – winter here I come! Unfortunately, things didn’t exactly go according to plan. My journey from hell began as soon as I arrived at the airport – the first flight was delayed (and eventually cancelled) for two hours, which would have resulted in a misconnect in Los Angeles. After an hour of scrambling, a wonderful Delta agent found an available Alaska Airlines flight, so at least I made my international connection. But more misery awaited me on the other side of the world. I made it to New Zealand – my luggage didn’t! After another hour wasted while I completed the necessary report, finally boarded the shuttle for my ride to the hotel with only the clothes on my back, my purse and a small carry-on containing computer, camera and an umbrella. I can only pray that bag shows up in the next 24 hours, or I will be wearing the same clothes for the next month – god forbid.



I begin my latest adventure in Christchurch, which is alive with color, atmosphere and world-class attractions, including the International Antarctic Center, Orana Park and Willowbank Wildlife Park. It is known internationally as the "Garden City" because of its spectacular gardens and is also home to several excellent cafes, bars and restaurants. A coastal city, situated approximately in the middle of the island, making it a great base of operations for sightseeing.



Doubletree by Hilton will be my home-away-from-home this trip and thankfully, it’s only 4 miles from the international airport. Known as Chateau on the Park, this place sure is unique. The 5-acre property, which boasts having a moat, a vineyard and a beautiful rose garden, makes the hotel feel secluded, but it is only a little more than a mile from the city center. From here, I can to walk to Christchurch Botanic Gardens, Hagley Golf Club and the University of Canterbury, if and when I get the urge to take a stroll. Best of all, it’s convenient to the railway station and they provide a complimentary shuttle to the CBD. The onsite guest laundry has machines which dispense detergent and fabric softener automatically – each load only $2.00 NZD – that room will see a couple of visits from yours truly before I depart. I’ve been assigned a lovely deluxe room with balcony overlooking the rose gardens, swimming pool and the onsite restaurant. This place is great and yes, it does resemble a chateau/castle. After a fitful night’s sleep (hardly surprising, given what I had just been thru), I made my way down to the restaurant for breakfast – coffee by the gallon first, please. Later, I stopped by the front desk for sightseeing literature to plan my activities in the coming days, and bathroom amenities – hard to deal with having no toothbrush or paste!



There are two positives however: a boatload of free drink vouchers to be used in the Den Bar every day of my stay, and the super weather. As it’s mid-winter here, the nights hover around the freezing mark and the days are a glorious high 50f/low 60f range with brilliant sunshine, clear blue skies and so far, no rain. It feels so good to step out onto the balcony and see my breath turn white in the frosty morning air! Beats the hell out of the Vegas desert heat, that’s for sure.



Some important historical dates:



On February 16, 1770 Captain James Cook in the Endeavour sighted Banks "Island" Peninsula. On December 16, 1850 the first 792 English pilgrims arrived in Lyttelton Harbor. On July 31, 1856 Christchurch became a city by Royal Charter. This makes Christchurch the oldest city in New Zealand, and the largest in the South Island.



A little bit of history:



Maori were the first to reach New Zealand, journeying in canoes from Polynesia, about 1,000 years ago. A Dutchman, Abel Tasman, was the first European to sight the country, but it was the British who made New Zealand part of their empire. The South Island is the larger of the two which make up New Zealand, but only has approximately one-third of the entire population.



The west coast is lined by the Southern Alps mountain ranges with Aoraki/Mount Cook being the highest point at 12,218’ above sea level. The island was named “Te Waka a Maui” by the Maori as, according to legend, the South Island is “Maui's Canoe” which he used to fish the north island from out of the sea. It is also known by the Maori as “Te Wai Pounamu” meaning “The Waters of Greenston”'.



Christchurch's history began in England in 1848, with the creation of the Canterbury Association. The association was backed by the Church of England with the intention of helping impoverished parishioners. The industrial revolution was in full swing during this period and many of England's skilled rural laborers were unemployed and surplus to requirement. The Canterbury Association promised a new life in New Zealand, where their skills were needed and the land would be theirs. The association decided it would build a city called Christchurch and began to plan its design before the first immigrant ship had even arrived. The city's name was based on the Oxford College of Christ Church and its design would reflect its English namesake. The Canterbury Association successfully applied for city status in 1862, despite having a population of only 3,000. This status was later revoked and officially Christchurch became a city in 1868. City status was important to the Canterbury Association as it made Christchurch more attractive to the prospective English immigrants that were needed to build the city. Introducing New Zealand's first steam train in 1863 also made Christchurch an attractive proposition. Soon an English city was taking shape on the Canterbury Plains.



Building the city's municipal center with limited labor and funds proved difficult. Although the city's plans were drawn up in the 1850s, it wasn't until the turn of the twentieth century that the city began taking shape. At its heart was the magnificent Christchurch Cathedral with its 207’ spire broadcasting the city's status across the region. Around the Cathedral were college buildings and premium residences and the city fanned out from there.



A 6.2 magnitude earthquake in 2011 devastated Christchurch, both physically and emotionally. The trouble began in September 2010, when a 7.2 magnitude earthquake rocked the city and weakened many of its structures. Life in Christchurch resumed, but many structures were no longer earthquake proof. Tragedy struck again at 12:51pm on February 22, 2011 when the second huge earthquake shook many buildings to their foundations, with the people of Christchurch working at their desks and enjoying their lunch breaks. The third and final recent earthquake struck in November 2016 with a 7.8 earth mover, causing extensive damage. The city is now alive again with inspiring modern architecture rising up all around. A glittering array of new shopping centers, offices, bars and restaurants now line the streets, giving the city an audible buzz of excitement. Attention is now firmly focused on the future. Hope of a full recovery was given a massive boost in 2017, when one of the biggest and most saddening issues was finally resolved. Christchurch Cathedral, the heart of the city, will be rebuilt. It is hoped that by 2027, this beacon of Christchurch's strength, prosperity and rich history will once again stand proudly at the heart of the city.



During my two-day hotel sojourn awaiting luggage delivery (yeah, it was found and is being delivered ASAP), I browsed available sightseeing literature and now have some great day trips booked. Not only is my old standby favorite the HOHO bus available, but antique trams (some dating back to the early 1900’s) are also used to explore the CBD with 17 different stops. Winter hours are 10am to 5pm – very curtailed but understandable, and at $25NZD ($16.67) per person for a one-day, unlimited use ticket, a steal of a price deal. The Doubletree operates a complimentary shuttle into the city center every day, so that will be used a LOT while I’m here.



I couldn’t have picked a better day for my first sightseeing adventure in this charming city. Crystal clear morning, nary a cloud in the sky, brilliant sunshine and a cool breeze keeping the mercury hovering around 55f. The hotel shuttle dropped me outside the Canterbury Museum and a few minutes later, the clang, clang, clang of the trolley sounded down the tracks. The city owns 7 antique trams all dating from 1902 thru 1912, and other than the updated interior seating, everything is in original condition. I climbed aboard, paid my fare and grabbed a window seat in the mid-section. For the next 3 hours I cruised the entire route twice – first time to absorb everything in sight – second lap to capture it with my camera. Its amazing how much scaffolding is evident throughout the entire city – evidently reconstruction after the recent earthquakes isn’t exactly moving at light speed. At least two very large city blocks are still completely leveled, with only concrete pillars and rebar visible, poking up from water-filled basements. Numerous buildings show major and minor damage to walls and rooftops and many have been condemned awaiting demolition. What I really found interesting is that the 8,000+ buildings which fell during the quakes, were all modern construction. Virtually no damage visible at all on the old stone ones, with the exception of the cathedral. But on the other hand, many new shops and office buildings stand gleaming in the winter sunlight, in stark contrast to the 19^th and 20^th century-built structures.



On New Regent Street in the very heart of Christchurch, virtually every building sports scaffolding on the front facades. Here a new tram station has been built to resemble those found in London, with stores lining both sides of the street. All offer at least a 10% discount on their products and services by showing a paid tram ticket. The prices for delicious snacks and meals are cheap: i.e. chunky beef pie with fries, a salad and drink are only $7.50 NZD ($5.10) before discount. These are mainly small “mom and pop” stores, with meals hand-made on the premises, and the food tastes out of this world. I finished my sightseeing with two hours in the Canterbury Museum, which is housed in a neo-gothic historical building at the entrance to the Botanic Gardens. It’s world renowned for its natural and human history collections – of particular interest are the outstanding Maori and early European exhibits, the Victorian Christchurch Street and the Decorative Arts Collection. And best of all: admission is free.



Back into the Den Bar at Happy Hour and discovered an exceptional apple cider produced in New Zealand, called Isaac’s Apple – very crisp taste with 5% alcohol content. This possibly will be the drink of choice for the remainder of my stay. Blackcurrant juice is very popular here – takes me back to my childhood growing up in England, when Vimto was the “go to” drink of choice – my brother will remember this brand. I have a glass of it every morning now with breakfast – beats orange juice by a mile.



Another day and another “must see” attraction to visit. This time I’m off to the Christchurch Gondola which is based in Heathcote Valley, and traverses the slopes of Mount Cavendish in the Port Hills. At a height of 1,460’, the summit affords sweeping 360-degree views of the city and the Canterbury Plains, to the Southern Alps in the north and west, and down into Lyttleton Harbor and Banks Peninsula in the south and east of the island. It first opened in October 1992, with a total of 19 cabins and the capacity to transport 812 passengers every hour. Open every day, tickets are $28 NZD adults, $12 NZD kids. At the top is a small restaurant and gift shop, and before I started taking photographs, a steak pie was calling my name. Served piping hot the flaky pastry is to die for, and the filling delicious.



The Christchurch Botanic Gardens are a stone’s throw from my hotel, so decided to end the afternoon’s outing exploring this city treasure. The city’s floral wonders are a source of great pride, and it was crowned the Garden City of the World, in a 1997 international competition. The park is large enough to utilize solar-powered, 10-seater electric shuttles, which resemble overgrown golf carts and are known as caterpillars. The 45-minute slow drive is a great way to learn the history from the informative and entertaining driver/guide. It’s also a hop on/hop off ride and tickets are good for two consecutive days of unlimited use. Obviously, its beauty is far more impressive in spring but even now in winter, the gardens have an impressive collection of trees, flowers and other flora from throughout the world, and you can totally lose yourself in the tranquilly and peaceful ambiance. The Visitor Center, which was opened in 2014 by William and Kate, is an incredibly beautiful, architecturally designed building with a function space and dedicated gallery of displays, exploring Christchurch’s world of plants. And of course, the always-present café and gift shop right at the exit, for those tourists needing either or both. Open every day, tickets are $14 NZD adults, $9 NZD kids.



I’m going punting on the picturesque Avon River, which winds thru the city center, to start my next day of exploration. Shades of the English-style boating event very popular during the Edwardian period, with period-costumed “punters” at the rear. Once settled into the boat, I’m handed a toasty hot-water bottle and a merino wool blanket, to keep out the chill of this winter morning. Kicking back and relaxing in this flat-bottomed boat, I spend the next 30 minutes gently coasting thru the Botanic Gardens, soaking up the marvelous scenery and listening to the guide’s commentary. This is the life, viewing the river’s banks covered in tiny white snowdrops and early pale lemon and white daffodils by the thousands. Ducks and Canadian geese are everywhere, and some even approach the boat to see if there’s food to be had. It’s a very shallow river, no deeper than waist high and crystal clear, due to the aquifer springs which feed it. It meanders thru the entire city, twisting and turning with decorative bridges spanning the banks. I’ve obviously died and gone to punting heaven – is this the way to live, or what? Open every day, tickets are $21 NZD adults, $12 NZD kids. The museums and art galleries I have visited in the past week around the city, all have free admission – that’s impressive, considering how excellent all these venues are.



I’ve just about exhausted all that Christchurch has to offer a visitor – time for me to go further afield and see what else the South Island has in store. Christchurch was the home to New Zealand's first railway, which ran from Madras Street to the harbor at Ferrymead. The city was also home to New Zealand's first railway workshops where the first home-built locomotive was constructed in 1889. The workshops were in Addington on the site that the modern Christchurch Station now stands. Without a doubt, one of Christchurch's best attractions is the TranzAlpine train, which runs daily through the magnificent Southern Alps from Christchurch to Greymouth on New Zealand's West Coast and back. This day-long experience marries relaxation with exhilaration as it climbs through some of the South Island's finest scenery - which is why it’s ranked amongst the city’s top attractions. Arguably even more beautiful than the TranzAlpine is the Coastal Pacific train, which departs daily from Christchurch to Picton. Unfortunately I won’t be able to take this northern journey, as the recent 2016 earthquake did massive damage to the tracks and it won’t be until it reopens on December 1^st this year, that service is expected to resume.



I decided Monday, August 6^th was a good day to take my first train journey across the vast patchwork plains of Canterbury - one of New Zealand's primary agricultural regions. It was a cool, wet and very misty morning, certainly not what I had hoped for considering the scenery which awaited me. Taking advantage of the hotel’s shuttle once more, I’m at the station for check-in at 7:30am for the 138-mile trip across the island, which is scheduled to take approximately 5 hours including 7 stops. The train runs this route every day, departing at 8:15am and returning from Greymouth at 6:30pm. Checking in was a breeze – my seat passes and vouchers for the onboard pre-selected food onboard were issued, and I made my way out to the platform for a photo opportunity before climbing into the B Carriage, to find my 6A window seat. As it had rained overnight and was still sprinkling, the large picture windows were all rain-streaked. This would be a problem for taking landscape pix until it dried off. Promptly at 8:15am the whistle blew, and we moved slowly away from the Christchurch platform – I’m off on my latest adventure.



The first 40 minutes of the rail journey were spent getting out of the city and its suburbs, then miles of the Canterbury Plains pasture land where boatloads of beef/dairy cattle and sheep were heads-down and grazing. Really not that interesting and the weather hadn’t improved any but then everything began to change. On the far side of the Plains the first stop is Springfield, where the Southern Alps suddenly rose from the plains like megalithic skyscrapers, creating a seemingly impenetrable barrier. For many years, Springfield was the end of the line with the Alps forming this formidable blockade. Eventually, a route to the West Coast through the Alps was agreed upon and construction began. This section, between Springfield and the township of Arthur's Pass, is considered a masterpiece of railway engineering and is the section for which the TranzAlpine is most famed.



The route first headed north-east to join the Waimakariri River gorge. This aqua-blue river appears and disappears out of the window several times as the train clings and climbs up the cliffs above it. During the ascent to the high plains of Craigieburn, there are 15 short tunnels and four dramatic viaducts, including the 236’ high Staircase Viaduct. The most iconic views come at the far end of the Craigieburn Straight, where the high plains stretch out to give a stunning view of Mount Binser and the edges of Arthur's Pass National Park. My window had cleared somewhat and I was able to start clicking away, capturing the awe-inspiring scenery of the region. Shortly after, the train met up again with the Wiamakariri River and then crossed it to reach Arthur's Pass. This section is stunningly beautiful and is where the famous photographs of the TranzAlpine crossing the Waimakariri River are taken. The most popular destination is definitely Arthur’s Pass. Most people hop off here and hike the alpine tracks for a few hours before catching the TranzAlpine back to Christchurch later in the day, however there are plenty of places to stay overnight if necessary to explore this remarkable region fully.



From Arthur's Pass, the train descended through the 5.5-mile long Otira Tunnel. This landmark structure was the second longest tunnel in the world when it was completed in 1923. It's historic completion also marked the completion of the Midland Line and the opening of the railway line from Christchurch to Greymouth. The Otira Tunnel marks the transition from Canterbury to West Coast (continental divide) and the landscape becomes remarkably different on the far side. The weather is typically wetter and the scenery more green and vibrant. The TranzAlpine followed a series of river valleys as it descended to Greymouth, starting with the Otira River and the Taramakau River. During these stretches, I’m taking some of the most stunning pix imaginable – the peaks here are snowcapped year-round, and now that winter is ending, the snow line is around the 6,000’ level. The train tracks are nestled intimately between mountainous hills, with rugged, broad riverbeds meandering alongside.



At Inchbonnie, the TranzAlpine looped back on itself to head around the lush lake valleys to Moana, on the banks of the spectacular Lake Brunner. It then joined the Arnold River valley which spills out into the Grey River valley on its final stretch before finally pulling into Greymouth Station. I had collected my brunch wrap, slice of sultana cake and coffee from the Café Car during the outbound journey, which I decided to save for lunch.



Arriving in Greymouth just after 1pm, I had just enough time to walk into the city center for a quick look-see before returning to the antique station and perching on one of the platform benches, to people watch while I ate lunch. The station sits right at the top of the main street, which made sightseeing and browsing the shops easy.



The platform clock struck 2:15pm and here came my mechanical trusty steed gliding down the tracks and ready to transport me back to Christchurch. At the heart of this incredible train are the spacious reclined seats, panoramic windows, glass shelves and skylights. The carriages are bathed in light and deliver incredible views of New Zealand's epic landscapes. By spreading the seats out, generous amounts of leg room and comfort have been created and to heighten this comfort, there is even state-of-the-art air bag suspension to guarantee a smooth ride across the rugged terrain. Quite simply I feel completely relaxed, sinking back in my reclining seat and soaking up this magnificent scenery. And what could be more relaxing than sitting back with a freshly brewed specialty tea or barista coffee, married with a slice of sumptuous cake? Well, maybe you'd like to toast your special journey with a bottle of bubbly or an award winning local wine? Or perhaps you'd prefer to keep it simple with an elegant cold beer or cider? Whatever it is that makes you smile, you are likely to find it in the licensed Café Carriage. When it comes to food, the onboard restaurant serves a broad menu of delights. From sweet or savory snacks, to tasty and substantial meals, all at very reasonable prices.



Nothing gets you closer to the great New Zealand scenery than the outdoor Viewing Carriage. These carriages have open sides and allow a passenger to be genuinely outdoors while travelling across great plains, through dense forests, along gorgeous coastlines and over spectacular mountain passes. The outdoor viewing carriage also provides uninterrupted views making it the ideal spot for some amazing photos. However, given the time of year and the outdoor mercury reading, I only spent a short time here – I about froze my ass off! To connect with the histories, legends and myths of New Zealand, I tuned into the audio commentary system. A seamless stream of stories, narratives and facts about the places outside the window, which playback as I pass by them. The audio commentary system is mounted in the arm of my chair and use the provided free headset (or you are welcome to use your own headphones if you prefer - the system uses a standard mini headphone jack), with commentary in both English and Mandarin. There are also power outlets at each seat for recharging phones, cameras etc. - just make sure you bring an adapter to accommodate USA (or other country) plug configurations!



I was sitting on the opposite side of the carriage for the return trip and with the softer afternoon and early evening light, I was able to shoot some of the most stunning mountain peak pix ever. The evening sky reflected in the various mountain streams and lakes, turning them into turquoise, ice blue and silver, and as many had a thin sheet of covering ice, the landscape sparkled in the dying glow. Darkness was complete about an hour outside of Christchurch so nothing much to see, and I was more than happy to leave the station out to my waiting shuttle ride, and return to the Doubletree around 7pm. Without a doubt, the best day so far in the South Island. Finally, the cost. As I use a VPN (virtual private network), I was able to route my reservation request thru an Auckland server and obtain the locals price, which for the cheapest non-refundable ticket was NZ$99 each way ($69.63). Expect to pay about $80 more each way if booking from outside the country and not masking your actual location.



The past couple of days have been true winter-style weather, with overcast skies, rain showers off and on and temperatures not getting much above 50f. Decided to stay around the hotel, getting my laundry done and relaxing out on the balcony, enjoying the cool, damp air knowing just how hot it is back in Nevada (last time I checked, 114f). I’ll be back there soon enough, so making the most of this climate while I can. I headed down to the Den Bar one evening for a hamburger and fries dinner….all these drink vouchers have to be used before I leave - no other excuse needed to order a few more Isaac’s Apple Ciders.



Being in New Zealand, of course it’s virtually mandatory to visit at least one of the 150 actual movie locations for “Lord of the Rings” trilogy. The closest one to Christchurch is at the remote and beautiful Mt. Potts High Country Station, the home of Mt. Sunday. Hasslefree Tours is a 10-year old company based in Christchurch and the only one I found which will run a tour even if only one paying guest has booked it. The others I checked with, all required a minimum of 4 people. The 4x4 12-seater all-terrain vehicle was at the hotel just after 9am with 5 other passengers hailing from the UK and Australia. Couldn’t have asked for a more perfect weather day: brilliant sunshine, cloudless blue skies and warming up fast – bodes well for excellent photos. The 3-hour drive over the Canterbury Plains closely paralleled the train tracks of the TranzAlpine Express I took last week. The closest town to this completely remote location, is Methven. It’s here that the cast and crew lived for two years while filming the trilogy – making the three movies simultaneously. You can’t go too far in New Zealand without tripping over a LOTR location site, but this one is considered the primary site for Edoras in The Two Towers. It’s situated on private property, but the owners don’t seem to have a problem with tour buses and individual tourists making the trek up to the top. The actual hill where the Golden Hall was located is known as Mount Sunday and is a rocky outcropping standing out sharply against the mountainous backdrop.



Turning off the main highway onto a gravel road we entered this magical valley, utterly surrounded by magnificent snow-capped mountains, with shining glacial streams meandering thru the gorse-shrouded landscape. We drove past two crystal clear bodies of water, Lake Camp and Lake Clearwater. Both were perfectly calm and not a ripple on the surfaces – projecting mirror images of the surrounding scenery – simply breathtaking. We were now deep into the back country and headed for middle earth, arriving at the parking lot just before noon. For people not on a scheduled tour and driving their own vehicles, this is where the ankle express (hiking) begins. Our guide Marie produced a key for the large chain and padlock on the gate, and we were able to drive at least another mile across the meadow and halfway up the outcropping before coming to the end of the “road”. While the movie was being filmed, the road had been extended around the back up to the top, and using electric golf carts, cast and crew didn’t have to hike – everyone else now does! As with almost every one of the filming sites, nothing now remains of what was built for LOTR – it’s all been returned to the natural state. Up on the North Island is where the mythical Hobbit town of Hobbiton is located with all “Hobbit Holes” intact and is a major tourist attraction. Earmark this for my next visit here.



90 minutes spent in this paradise on earth was more than enough to photograph the entire region. Being a Saturday, I expected many more bodies running around but no, only a couple of other people were visible and the silence as a result was much appreciated. It’s a sheer-sided hill that was the set for Edoras, the main city of the Rohan people. Nothing remains of the set which took nine months to build, however the location still has a powerful magic. This region has such natural and unspoiled beauty with sparkling clear lakes, glistening blue rivers and fresh, crisp mountain air. You would swear you were a million miles from civilization, its that remote and wild.



By 2:30pm we were back in the vehicle and headed for lunch at the Mt. Potts Lodge down in the valley. Here Marie produced a magnum of chilled sparkling white wine and orange juice for any teetotalers in the group (needless to say, there were none), and large fresh sandwiches called “dagwoods” ….each one enough for two people and a snack bar for dessert. We sat out on the patio in the warm late winter sunlight, nestled between soaring mountains and meadows, munching on dagwoods, killing a bottle of bubbly and just kicking back and relaxing. This is the life to live for sure – how lucky can I be?



Bidding farewell to middle earth, Edoras and the ghosts of Frodo and Gandalf, we departed for the long drive back to Christchurch and by 5:30pm I was back in the Doubletree. The weather held beautiful the entire day; my numerous photos were stunning; New Zealand is definitely on “my return” list, it’s a wondrous place. My time in New Zealand is fast drawing to a close and in just a couple of days I will, once more, be inside that metal tube hurtling across the Pacific on my way home. I’ve already started counting down the months until I can return…wait for me Aragorn, I’ll be back!











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