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Published: March 13th 2009
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Entering the Awatere Valley.
This is a place where lush and arid jostle with each other, creating a wonderful mix of colour. Our approach to the Awatere Valley was a twisty trip along a narrow licorice ribbon road that entwined itself about the main south railway line around successive folds in the hills. These hills were of ochres, yellow and sand hues, their dry stalks of yellowed grass waving in the in hot noon breeze. The extreme dryness of the hillsides was a stark contrast to a sea of well-watered grapes that spread in lush green rows across the valley floor and up onto the lower slopes. It was a sudden, striking change in hue and texture.
Awatere Valley is award-winning wine-producing country and it seemed that every land owner there had his or her obligatory vineyard. Except, it seemed, for Oaktree Cottage, a lovely little place nestled among the growers.
Historic Oak Tree Cottage is home to Nicola and Russell, Awatere Valley’s extraordinary hostess and host. Nicky is also the ambassador for the area, it would seem, finding out what everyone’s interests were and seeing to them. She shared much with us during our stay with her, and we enjoyed it thoroughly. Nicky is an avid gardener and creator of fantastic Victorian floral arrangements (in silk so they never die!).
Oaktree Cottage
Thsi is the original piece of the cottage, the cob structure that is over 120 yrs old. Its thick rough walls and low doors are a delight. Russell is congenial by temperament and a builder by trade.
This family’s loving relationship and encompassing warmth makes their place a lovely Wwoof or HelpX destination.
At Oaktree, the girls gardened manically and cleaned house, Anthony built an enclosed recycling bin and, with Russell’s aid, new steps for a second small cottage resting on piles that they will use for a guest house - or for Wwoofers. In between, we had tea breaks, good meals and wines and we spent a fair bit of time rolling (or bouncing) over the many rugged hills in Nicky’s 4WD. From the hilltops we had a broad vista of the contrasts in this area: the azure sea; the straw-dry hills; and hundreds of grape farms below us.
Their house is in two parts. One part is an historic cob cottage, built in the nineteenth century. Cob is a mixture of clay, straw and dung, a material used by many early settlers.
The other part is an add-on renovation, which is being further extended this year. Finally Nicola may get an inside loo (toilet)!
Nicky and Russell often entertain those who come to see the old cottage with its magnificent shelter
of oak trees, and Nicky serves Devonshire teas in the garden, or in the Victorian-themed dining room. She is from a large and vibrant family with eight siblings. She is very accustomed to having many folks around and is adept at feeding many mouths around her dinner table. Many an evening’s meal was punctuated by howling laughter.
We were introduced us to some of their favourite people: their daughters, sweet Amelia and spicy Laura Jean; their friend Steve, the loveable and comical biker; and a neighbour, the grape grower/sheep farmer Jeff, and his tiny wife Polly, who had a garden to make any botanist envious, and a sense of fun twice her size. Jeff related the difficulties of being a smaller vineyard; we were told that the market is mostly saturated to the extent that the farmers are at the mercy of the big wine-producers, yet we saw many startup vineyards. The future looks good for those who like NZ wine!
The view of the stars from the backyard of Oak Tree cottage was a light show fit for a king; the canopy of the southern hemisphere’s night sky. Without the glare and pollution of city lights, there
Tea for.. several
Nicola at her best, serving tea and yummy things on the lawn in the midst of her cottage garden. The two lads with us were also on world travels and left for Australia while we were there. were so many stars visible that we just stood in awe.
We saw the pattern of stars that makes up the Southern Cross (the stars seen on New Zealand’s flag). Everywhere one looked there was a splendor of sparkling light. It was easy to feel little in the great space that stretched out above us. It was a magnificent and spiritual experience. Then, the day before we left, it rained and all-at-once green appeared among the dry grasses on the hills.
The experience of visiting this area and spending time with the people was enlightening as to how the economy has changed the farmers and tradesmen’s lives and that of their families. Many of those we have met have greatly diversified their sources of income in order to keep the cash flowing.
Gracie also had the opportunity to help one of Nicola’s sisters through a rough patch while there. It was gratifying for her to help someone after having had similar experiences in her own life not too very long ago. We left feeling like we had met friends that we would keep in touch with life-long. They have a standing invitation to visit us wherever we
Above Awatere Valley
Slightly windblown, enjoying the views that only a local resident can show. end up, so we may return the hospitality they demonstrated.
Our way forward was south along the coast, whale-watching country!
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Joyce
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Great Pics!
Thank you so much for sharing some of your travel experiences! So great to read about what you are up to and to see you all obviously having a wonderful time! xoxoxo, Joyce