Death on the cable car


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Oceania » New Zealand » North Island » Wellington
March 23rd 2010
Published: March 26th 2010
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Dorm rooms have no care for hangovers, my head really hurts. I came in quietly so why are they so loud at 7am? i manage to go back to sleep for a couple of hours, my head improves to a dull ache and some breakfast should help, if i could find any. I finally settle for a cup of tea, which i drink on my way to the cable car.
Its not actually a cable car it a funicular railway that goes up the side of Lambton Quay, the view from the top over the city and bay is spectacular, the sun is glaring and the sea looks deep and tantalizing, little white waves break the surface and the boats are tiny from this height and in comparrison to the vastness of the bay. I tour the museum, it has two old cars dating from the early 19 hundreds, they are both far more attractive to the box like ones that are currently in use, one is painted red with brass finish and used leather straps the other green and white with stripped wood, red wood in its varnish. There are seats lining the sides of the carriage, they are angled against the slope to keep the rider upright for their trip.
From here I walk back through the botanical gardens, its a comfortable walk downhill towards the city, tall trees shade the path and planted beds are mixed with wilderness to make each step different, as I approach the bottom I find a hot house with koi and lily pads, the warmth reminds me of the days in Singapore, which feels so long ago.
Finishing the walk takes me through Bolton Steet memorial park, an old graveyard, a morbid curiosity sees me reading the lives and deaths of the long dead. I'm totally engrossed by 1 stone, DUFF, a stone marking 7 deaths. 5 children between 1 and 11, sad I think then I notice 4 of the children died within 8 days of each other in december 1876, and the other 12 months later. It must have been a disese, epidemic maybe, measles or cholera. so many in such a short time, I stand and empathise with the two parents who both lived long lives. by the time I get to the bottom i'm determined to find out what killed them, a small chapel is nestled, white, in the surrounding highrised grey, I go in to see if there is anything to help me with my endeavour. Although my chirdren arn't in the examples given, where they are overshone by families who lost 7 or 8 children to typhoid and Scarlet fever in the late 19 centuary. I do some internet searching but I can't find a relating epidemic to the Duffs deaths so it remains a mystery, however my suspission is for scarlet fever which may account for the subsequent death aslo.
Now i'm back in the city, my lack of breakfast is starting to tell and I wander off to find the guide books best fish and chip shop in Wellington, Wellingtons trawling company shop has both a fresh and cooked counter, it is possible to buy anything battered and deep fried, prawns, elephant fish, squid, the range is huge but the shop is one counter with 2 servers same as any good fish and chip shop. I soon find myself sitting on the kerb with men in suits, students, tourists and the local colour with my fish and chips in a small cardboard tray, greasy fingers are compared and deep fried prawn fights ensue, the food is good, the fish steamed lightly and the batter crisp (i've yet to find good chips here so i won't mention those) but the variety and spirt of the clientel is what really sells it.
My afternoon is on an organised trip, driving around the city to see the sights, the top of Mount Cook with its spectacular views of the city, the suberbs to see the San Fransisco style houses, then the English, then finally the New Zealand, out along the coast line to see the clear blue water of the harbour inlet, through the city to see the parliamnet buildings and back to Te Papa for that bit of culture. I'm torn between exploring myself and going on the guided trip, I learnt lots about the city that I wouldn‘t have known and saw things I wouldn't have on foot but I still wonder how much individuality did I miss by not exploring myself?

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