NZ 7: The last leg

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Only just catching up and finishing off these blogs and it feels like years ago that we were cruising around New Zealand in our camper van. Time flies, make the most of it!


Christchuch

Christchurch is one of New Zealand's largest cities nestled between the East coast and the Canterbury Plains of the South Island. Often described as the 'Most English' of New Zealand cities due to it's foundation by English settlers, it's not hard to spot the English influence with the vast majority of streets in the CBD named after English towns.

The English influence in Christchurch was however, not the first thing that you notice as you arrive; I'm sure most people heard about the 2011 earthquake that shook the city, but really we had no idea of the scale of damage, destruction and death that this had caused. Two years on from the earthquake, the city is still reeling from the effects, with many roads in the CBD still closed, and huge plots of land, that had once housed the cities business district buldings, empty and strewn with rubble. A "red zone" was set up in which pedestrians are not allowed to enter as it is still unsafe to do so. Few buildings were directly destroyed by the earthquake, but made unstable enough that 90%!o(MISSING)f the CBD has to be flattened and rebuilt. The magnitude of the operations going on here is unthinkably huge. In the past two years so much has been achieved already which is evident in the reduction in size of the "red zone", but there is still so much more to do; Considering work is still being done on taking down buildings and making the area safe, before they are able to focus on actually rebuilding.





We decided to do the "red zone" bus tour, the only way to get in to the red zone and see the true extent of the damage. Alongside, the destruction of the many buildings, we were shocked to discover that a total of 185 men, women and children had lost their lives, as shown by this unsettling memorial exhibition with each chair representing one person. The baby car seat at the front of the memorial is the most distressing.



Out of the devastation came some innovative initiatives to help some small business owners get back on their feets after losing their properties, as well as raise community spirit and morale. A charitable movement called Gap Filler have come up with many ideas which can be seen around the city:


• The Re-start centre is essentially Christchurch's shopping centre made up of 64 shipping containers and housing shops and cafes, and even a couple of banks to allow some semblance of normality to return to shop owners.
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• The think different book exchange, where people donate books that they feel have changed their lives or have had a positive influence, so that others may benefit from them - http://www.gapfiller.org.nz/gap-7-think-differently-book-exchange/
• The pallet pavillion, an outdoor arena made from over 3000 wooden pallets, to fill the need for live music venues in the city.
• Terry, the Taiwanese traveller, who travelled around New Zealand busking on his Eukele and collecting smiles for Christchurch

A few other things that happened whilst we were in Christchurch:


• We maybe feautring in Tony Robinson/ Baldrick's latest documentary/ cunning plan as he was filming in the Re:start centre...we even had to do some acting for him.
• Hagley park was INSANE! The reason Christchurch is known as the garden city is because of this huge park. With over 25 rugby pitches, and 25 netball pitches side by side we were awed to discover that these are pretty much full every night! Is it any wonder that NZ are on top in these sports!?



Despite the death and destruction caused by the earthquake, and the gargantuan task of the rebuild hanging over the city, you do not leave Christchurch feeling depressed about the situation, in fact totally the opposite. There is an a real sense of togetherness and an incredible community spirit, showcased by the several innovative ideas implemented over the past two years for the benefit of everyone. As well as this, there is very much a positive focus on the huge opportunity available to the people of Christchurch; the opportunity to create, sculpt and build for the future cities needs. It’s a frame of mind and focus more people should try to adopt, focussing not on the negative in a given situation, but on the positives and opportunities surrounding them. We left feeling inspired and would love to return in the future to see the finished product.



Akaroa


The small seaside town of Akaroa simply oozes charm, with quaint restaurants, boutique shops and galleries. We enjoyed stopping for a pick me up at a local cafe overlooking the shimmering waters of Akaroa Harbour. The town’s French influence was evident with pretty French named streets, lined with historic cottages cloaked in roses and hanging baskets, and beautiful coloured shutters.



It’s ‘claim to fame’ is being home to the best, freshest fish ‘n’ chips in the country and it did not disappoint. We experienced fine dining eating from the standard paper packaging beside the waterfront – ending a perfect little day in Akaroa before continuing our journey and witnessing another spectacular New Zealand sunset as we continued our journey towards Hanmer Springs for a day of relaxation.






Hanmer Springs

Hamner Springs is a small village purpose built for rest and rejuvenation. We quickly headed for the thermal reserve to soak in the naturally heated pools dipping in and out of water ranging from 36 to 42 degrees. Rach had a moment of panic, after typically not reading a number of signs displayed around the complex NOT to wear any jewellery into the pools. What had been a relaxing soak in the sulphur pool, turned into sheer horror as every item of jewellery she possessed had become oily, tarnished and blackened. Luckily, the day was not ruined, and the receptionist with her silver liquid was able to save the day, or that could have been a very expensive mistake!


Picton

After a fleeting trip to Kaikora, where, despite driving past a number of campsites along the coast we opted to travel in the opposite direction in search of a DOC site, still trying to replenish the funds after incurring a illegal parking fine! Making a joint decision to keep driving, along a dark, desolate and empty country road it became evident that there was very little chance of returning to Kaikora the following day. The silence was unnerving as both of us peered out of the window into the darkness hoping to see a blue sign, with the outline of a tent or caravan... 90 minutes after we set off, one finally appeared redirecting us a further 8km off road into the back of beyond.

We woke to be pleasantly surprised finding ourselves on the edge of the beach, and continued our journey to Picton, determined to walk the recommended ‘Queen Charlotte Track’. Little did we know this involved a 45 minute drive along the worst twisty, windy road with the tightest of turns uphill along a mountainous edge, where the poor camper struggled to maintain 50kph. We both arrived feeling horrendously car sick and decided there and then there was no way we were completing that journey again to one of the DOC sites, and would rather spend money on a holiday park for the night than endure the torturous roads again!

The weather could have been better for our walk, another bleak overcast day reminding us of our trek in the Abel Tazman, walking with scenic views of the coast which would appear more impressive with some sun reflecting upon them. We ploughed on as the mist and rain descended upon us, completing the day like maniacs completing a hardcore tempo run session.

We woke to a beautiful, bright sunny morning and embarked upon a walk on the ‘Snout Track’ both sporting shorts and vests for what seemed like the first time in ages! As we ambled along enjoying the sunshine and views, time almost slipped away, and we had a sprint for home to ensure enough time to buy lunch (priorities) and return in time for our boat to Wellington!




Wellington

Reluctantly we returned to our not so favourite $50 per night ‘campsite’ carpark, where our gas finally decided enough was enough and conked out 4 days before the end of our trip! Tuna meals for the next few days then!



Our time in Wellington was focused upon picking up last minute essentials, locating little mementos for family. It turned out to be an expensive occasion, and we both regretted not finding room somewhere in our bags for the beautiful things on the Market Stalls in South East Asia.





Tangariro Alpine

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After bypassing the Tangariro Alpine pass, aka Mount Doom on the first occasion as a result of horrendously bad weather we had both been both optimistic and excited about our return. Despite waking up to the poor camper shaking from side to side in gale force winds and rain pelting off the windscreen we continued towards the carpark eager to get there before it ‘filled up’ at 8am. More fool us, as it appeared we were the only two foolish enough to attempt this walk in such terrible weather conditions. Tom started the day as successfully as it went on, by spilling his breakfast of oats and yoghurt all over the back of the van!



Armed with our only wet weather gear, aka our ponchos we began the recommended walk estimated around 8 hours return, and within moments were nearly blown off our feet, and our ponchos ripped off us! Conversation was at a minimum as we couldn’t hear a thing, but both determined not to be defeated ploughed on up the mountain where it became wetter and visibility poorer. It was a pretty miserable experience and the only thing keeping us going was reluctance to give up, but we were both aware we were illequipped for such terrible conditions and literally wearing any dry or warm clothes we owned. Reluctantly we made the decision to turn back, after a mere 4km, completely soaked through, and freezing!





New Zealand as we discovered is a beautiful country, however neither of us could ever quite get over just how remote. There was not much between the Tongariro Alpine Pass and our next stop, Waitamo. We were left at a lose end of what Plan B was for the remainder of the day, making a tragic decision to stop and spend time in Taumaranui, officially Rach’s least favourite place of the whole trip.





Waitomo

The Waitamo Caves occupied a high placing in our New Zealand wish list, we decided to leave the best to last and visit them on our return trip to the North Island. This was a decision we did not regret as they did not disappoint. We both agreed we would rate our journey underground clambering through the dark Aranui Cave in black rubber hoops higher than our White Water rafting experience in Queenstown.

We practiced the ‘Human Eel’ before entering the cave, and jumping backwards successfully landing our bottoms into our rubber rings...quite a skill! Inside the cave was a whole new experience, drifting along in our hoops in complete darkness being guided by the light of the glow worms. We later learned it was in fact their poo that we saw, as our guide so discretely worded it that they effectively ‘shit themselves’ with fear as we approach, hense how we can see them.

The ‘Human Blender’ was an area to avoid, the clue being in the name, it was not recommended to fall in there! We particularly enjoyed hearing a story about ‘Joey’ the glow worm.



Auckland

Last minute cleaning operation, Karen would be proud! Rach was horrified after finally deciding that her Jack Wills t-shirt had seen better days when Tom ripped it in two, proudly announcing it would do as a cloth to clean the inside of the van!



7,000 kilometres and a great experience later the van was returned spotless, and while the ‘no strings attached policy’ was full proof, we did fall on the last hurdle by not replenishing the petrol to the exact spot it was when we got it, and incurred a charge! Typical!!



Can’t believe the trip is in its final week!! Last stop Fiji, then home to face reality!

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