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Published: January 19th 2008
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Tongariro Crossing
Sal at the beginning of the walk... DATE VISITED: 4-5TH JANUARY
We travelled south following the eastern side of the Lake to our hostel at a small town right on the fault line which runs through central New Zealand through White Island and Japan. The small town of Turangi was an ideal base for our long big day walk the next day:
http://www.tongarirocrossing.org.nz/
The first hour os so was quite easy but hitting the middle section proved to be a hard sweat as the terrain was more rocky and much steeper. My heart was pounding as I was tackling the ascent at a faster pace than I would have liked - hearing the constant padding of fellow walkers feet behind you keeps you ahead by a few strides. Ben was further up and was doing well considering he was carrying the backpack loaded with gourmet lunch (courtesy of sal's packing) and the necessary backup gear should the weather turn. As the path levelled out after a tough hour or two the flock of people moved onwards towards the crossing itself - the path passes over a crater between two (active)! volcanos and several emerald coloured lakes full of minerals and the like.
We
Tongariro Crossing
The walk takes you through a vast volcanic landscape, across craters, volcanic lakes and through steep valleys where live Volcanos are abound (one bang next to Tongariro expecting an eruption any time and has been "rumbling" for a while locals say). 'Smoking' can be seen a few metres from the footpath. (You dont look for too long!) It doesn't get much closer than this! decided to take the detour to Mt Tongariro summit but was mislead by the sign which told us to allow 1hr 20 minutes for the return. This clearly didn't allow for the very tricky section of the track traversing the very steep slopes and scree of the volcano side to reach the top. I was very worried about my balance (not alone B carrying a massive backpack over this spot!) and took it step by step. With the volcanic backdrop and out of this world film type setting I could have easily have been mistaken for Gollum as I hunched my body forward limping step by step along the mountain side. What a sight for sore eyes!
The detour lasted a good two hours and although a feeling of reward filled our minds I wouldn't say the extra effort was worth the additional view from the summit...still, it provided us with some rest-bite from the ant trail which plagued us upto the trek's high-point. We returned to the original junction and enjoyed our picnic - we had plenty to choose from ranging from salmon in sun-dried tomato with parmesan and cashew nut, a luxury pate, a dip for our
Red Crator
This is one of a couple of live crators on the walk we walked along side - safe! French baguette! , some scrumptios muesli bars, grapefruit and kiwi for dessert, and some tasty smoky bacon crisps! Too much for a day walk but I couldn't decide what to leave behind!
The walk continued upto a mound which provided panoramic views of the surrounding volcanic landscape. The green and blue volcanic lakes looked stunning - postcard type pictures. Luckily the sunshine assisted in emphasizing all the colours (volcanic red, blues greens etc). Despite all this beauty I was in a constant state of unease... Thanks to the bloke at our hostel who prior to leaving for our shuttle bus commented casually on the 14 active volcanoes surrounding his home town. I don't know what I was expecting but I felt most uncomfortable when he kept mentioning ' that one is well overdue' and 'this one next to your tramping track has been rumbling a lot more recently' - oh and then there's the guidebook which subtly states how the same volcano is about to 'blow its top anytime now' and yet here we are about to walk right through its centre and traverse the volcano's edge passing areas which are 'smoking' and clearly building for a big one!...
Along Tongariro Crossing...
Dangerous steep Volcanic Scree slopes... I suppose in geological terms 'active' can just mean not dead! and that these volcanos could be in that state for centuries and centuries... but then the same guy mentions how 'one blew its top a couple of months ago erupting rocks the size of cars - one landing in a hut and crushed a tramper's leg'!
Just what you want to hear when your heading out on your walk (to death!)
Anyway! We made it otherwise I wouldnt be writing this - and yep! another bus load of walkers just like us will walk right through this volcanic zone like we did, just hoping their time wasn't up yet!
That night I was dying for a good night's sleep. For the last god knows how many days on the trot life was determined to interrupt my night: a noisy generator, a wild turkey, a rumbling thermal area, an early morning peacock call, a new yrs even party, banging hostel doors, midnight loo visits... surely now I will get some good sleep...
Well this one I couldn't be angry at! I turned over in bed to re-adjust my sleeping position in the middle of the
night to then experience my first ever tiny earthquake! Totally out of blue as I was moving my duvet I suddenly felt a very strong vibrating sensation (yes just like one of them! - it sent ripples right through me - lasted about 2 seconds and then nothing. I was so excited I couldn't sleep properly for the rest of the night - that old geezer was right (he said we should feel something as they get about 300 a day being on the fault line and all!).
I was very chuffed the next morning! Probably more a highlight than the crossing itself - still, I must admit I was relieved as we drove out of this area and onwards to the safe westerly state of Waikato for our next 'Woofing' post!
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Dinesh
non-member comment
Are you sure it was an earthquake sal, or did Ben just fart?!