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Published: January 20th 2007
Back in Auckland
doing the tourist things...Now back near Auckland, as a treat we booked into a motel for 3 nights in Birkenhead, (just north of Auckland) where we hooked up with Lucien and Sinaed.
Lucien and John had a surf at Piha, we later had fresh fish BBQ (Blue nose Green, Salmon kebabs and scallops, hand picked from the fish market)and when Lucien was back at work on Monday we caught the ferry across from Devonport into Auckland and went up the Sky tower, where we watched several people do the sky jump from just above the observation deck.
John sorted out his tickets with Air NZ, he is now staying until 5th March. We are planning to have a week in San Francisco then. After this I will head back also. After having company for that long, I think it will be a bit naff carrying on alone. Also funds will be running low. I am finishing my trip a bit earlier and not completing so many countries, but I feel that I have made the most of the ones that I have been to and want to savour them, save some more money, and do more smaller trips.
Well thats a
couple of months away, so moving on. We left Auckland on a pouring wet day heading North. It rained for most of the day, as we stopped in Orewa to look at where John's uncle (Jeff) was living for a couple of years. Next stop was a Thermal pool resort at Waiwera, which we looked at, but this is a huge complex and an all day visit would be required, so we didn't stay.
We were into Northland and starting on the West Coast, following the Twin Discovery Highway, this is the 'Kauri Coast'. Kauri tree logging was big business in the last century. They were cut down and the timber used to build houses, furniture, and the Gum from the Kauri, an amber substance like the amber stone, used for jewellery and sculpting. The Kauri is now protected, (realising its treasure) but they are still found in swamp land and the inside wood is still in good shape to use.
After a stop off at the famous pub and Cheese factory in Puhoi, where the rain was still lashing down, we visited the famous Kauri Museum, at Matakohe. It was marvellous, showing how impressive this wood and
its origin is. The trees grow to enormous size (when left), there was a exibit of an old working saw mill, clever displays showing the lives of kauri bushmen and an amazing gum room, which held a collection of kauri gum or resin, with amongst others, fossilised flea, spider and lizard held within it, also polished and sculpted pieces, and some made into jewellery. When we came out, the sun had also come out and it was baking hot.
The rolling hills of farmland sure look better in the sun than in the mist and rain. After a very long day with all these stops, we finally set up camp in Dargaville, and took a look at Bayly's Beach. This is a massive beach which lies on Ripiro Ocean beach and most people seem to drive along it in their 4WD vehicles. There was even a speed limit sign as you come off the beach for 30. Unfortunately though, no surf to speak of.
After packing up the wet tent again and another look at Bayly's beach we headed on up the coast, stopping at Kai Iwi lakes. There are 3 rain fed dune lakes renowned for their
beauty and clear visibility. We took one of the short walks around, couldn't help but notice alot of the pine trees had been felled, and left, as though a project was started and never got finished. We stopped at a cove that had the most tropical setting, with sandy shore and pine trees, turquoise water, not a soul on it. There were however lots of boats whizzing around, water ski-ing and tube-ing. The camp site where we started our walk was choc a bloc. We had a little picnic, had several enquiries about our Van (the Dog). People that had owned one, way back when.....
After refreshments we carried onto the Waipoua Forest and stopped to see the two huge Kauri trees, estimated in the region of 1200 -2000 years old. One Tane Matua Ngahere is 5M in diameter (so WOW, as you walk around the corner and its there, MASSIVE!!), the second Tane Mahuta stands at 51M tall, hard to appreciate in the forest.
Another long day and starting to get really warm and clammy, we finally found a campsite at Opononi, which is overlooking the sea and huge sand dunes, where we went for some sandboarding
Kai Iwi Lake
Rain fed lake... the next day, to get there we had a nice ride on the speedboat that drops you off and comes back hourly with more mad fools. Remainder of the day we just chilled.
From Opononi (packing up a very wet tent, in still wet weather) we made our way to Ahipara, taking the car ferry, (A mini Torpoint ferry without the chains) across the Hokianga Harbour at Rawene. Although the day was misty, the scenery is so amazing with surprises around the next bend. At Ahipara we decided to stay in a hostel, in the dry. The obvious place to stay, 'Endless Summer Lodge', the nicest hostel I have ever stayed in, made from the Kauri timber and all the interior decor is in this fabulous wood. Aphira is at the southern end of the famous 90 mile beach and a very lovely place to be, even in the rain.
Giving the 'SeaDog' a rest, we took a coach trip to Cape Rienga. It was a fun packed day, the coach drove on the remainder of 90 mile beach (actually 64miles), which is apparently classed as part of SH1. It is so weird to be going along the
sand at 90KM. As John looked longingly at the surf, which apparently is not really surfable because of the tremendous rips, there were many fishermen dotted the whole stretch of the beach, they just drove right on up to a quiet spot in their 4 WD. We carried on right up to Te Paki where we had the opportunity to Tobbogan on the sand dunes. As there were 4 other coaches and its still raining, I gave this one a miss. John had a go though, its all on film!!. Cape Rienga, is the Northerly point of NZ where the Tasman sea and Pacific Ocean, meet. There were some amazing looking cross currents, but it was sooo wet and misty, we could see very little at all. We were glad to have had the day trip on the coach, our driver was very informative the whole day, and the long road up, that we would have taken was another 'metal' road, unsealed. We would not have been able to drive the beach in our 'seadog', far too sketchy, definately need a 4WD and need to know where the exits are. On the way there and back, we stopped at the
Kauri Kingdom centre, which gave more info about the Kauri trees that have been found in Swamps, (swamp Kauri), the outside of the tree looks rotted and dark, but still had amazing potential for making things, and the inside was a treasure of the beautiful golden colour wood. At Kauri Kingdom there were examples of what can be made from this wood. There was the most unbeleiveable spiral staircase, completely carved out of the tree, which had to be seen to be beleived. I had my eye on a beautiful vanity unit of solid wood, gorgeous.
As luck would have it, the sun came out again on our last day in Ahipara, so we were able to walk around the point and another point for quite a way along the southern end of 90 mile beach, known as shipwreck bay. More fishermen on the rocks, two stray horses and a dog that took a liking to John, while I had a little swim in the very calm ocean.
For the first time in a while, we left a place that is still basking in Sun, and it gave us the feeling of wanting to stay, however back on
the road across Northland and onto the East side. We stopped at Toupo Bay for John to have a good surf. A comfort stop at Kawakawa, to see the famous public toilets designed by Friedrich Hundertwasser, quite unusual, all done out in colourful mosaic of ceramic and glass bottles. Grass and plants growing on the roof. Across the road for our Flat white, (John is now also addicted to the good flat white coffee's).
We found a nice camp site at Tutukaka, but as it was 6.30pm and had been a long, warm day, John was feeling too tired to put up the tent, so we got a cabin. 10 mins after we unpacked, we went back to Sandy Bay for him to have another surf !! (all tiredness fogotten, it would seem). There are so many beautiful beaches and here is no exception, they are all around the coast. Tutukaka is a famous Dive spot, Poor Knight's islands. The islands are bathed in a subtropical current from the coral sea and has the tropical and sub tropical fish not seen in other coastal waters. We went on a 'Perfect Day' boat trip to these islands, where we did
early morning mist
over shipwreck bay some spectacular snorkelling and had a row around the caves in a kayak. The most fascinating thing for me was when he took the boat into the biggest cave in the world, Rikoriko, even with our big boat inside, there was room for many more, the accustics were amazing also, as we all shouted and the boats horns were sounded. It is said that Neil Finn of crowded house played in this cave, amongst other local bands. Our guide told us that before it was a national marine reserve, the locals would often all gather here and have boat parties with music. I also read in the national geographic that a submarine sheltered here during world war II.
We went into nearby Whangeri, which was a bit of a shock, it appears to have city status, and there were roundabouts and traffic lights and much traffic, (something we haven't seen in a while) we were looking for a computer shop as John's connection leads appear to have got damp and blew the fuse. Completely lost without it, as it also charges up his phone.
The funny thing in NZ is that people direct you to places by the 'Warehouse"
Rikoriko cave
fabulous cave, look careful, there is a boat inside.... stores (rather than pubs as in UK). There are Warehouse stores in nearly every town, big or small and we were directed to Warehouse and Dick Smiths next door. When we eventually found it, they didn't have his lead in stock, so we'll have to wait until Auckland.
A bit deflated we went for a walk at Whangari falls and onto the Kauri treetop walk, which were both really amazing.
On our way back to Auckland, before heading down towards South Island (booked on ferry for 1st Feb), we stopped at Omaha, yet another amazing beach, and John had a fabulous surf. It was another beuatiful sunny and warm day.
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Denise tregillis
non-member comment
Keep having loads of Fun.
Hi Lorraine and John, I have just been going through all your journals again and reliving your fabulous experiance. It was 12 months ago that we were in New Zealand and your activities are reminding us of our fab holiday we had there. You wait till you get to Queenstown it will be even better for you adrenelin junkies. Enjoy the rest of your tour, stay safe both of you big hugs Denise and Derek.