Tolaga Bay and Napier

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After the excess of last night (ok, I went to the beach and watched the fireworks), I really did not want to get up this morning. I have finally found the most comfortable position for the duvet cover and pillow and when the birds woke me this morning, I confess I lay there for another hour! Consequently, it was a quick shower, fast breakfast and, unfortunately, a trip to the dump station for the van. Despite all of this, I still managed to leave the site by 09h00.

With the improved weather, I decided to take the road north east up to Tolaga Bay. It would mean a trip of 57km each way and a return back to Gisborne. However, having travelled 16,000 miles, I wasn’t going to be put off by the last 30 miles.

The journey out of Gisborne was pleasant enough. Occasionally, I spotted a large hawk but despite having the camera ready, I just couldn’t find a parking spot soon enough and still, a photograph remains but a dream.

Passing through vineyards, I soon arrived at the coast again. The road ran alongside some very sandy but deserted bays. Although it’s late spring here, the storm clouds were brewing and the waves, which were probably good for surfing, were lashing the beach. Together with grey clouds, the sight was very menacing.

Tolaga Bay

Eventually, the road began to climb through native forest and became very twisty; there was no way the 30 miles would be done in 45 minutes. An hour and twenty minutes after leaving Gisborne (you work out the average speed), I came to the sign directing me to Tolaga Bay. Pulling off the road, I followed a narrow lane for a mile or so before coming to a stop at the beach. There in front of me was the largest wharf in the southern hemisphere.

Now, I hear to say, what is significant about Tolaga Bay. Surely one wouldn’t drive 30 miles just to see a wharf. Of course not! This bay is very significant in the modern history of New Zealand for it was here, in 1769 that Captain Cook first came ashore with the crew to collect food and water whilst Banks and Solander came to collect plants, etc. Indeed, to this day, each of the roads in the little village of Tolaga Bay is named after one of the crew.

The bay itself is very wide with a fine sandy beach. It is also surrounded by steep cliffs, providing sheltered waters. On the southern side of the bay lays the wharf. At over 600m long, it’s a bit of a walk to the end. However, on a clear day, like today, the walk is certainly worth the views although the railway line coming to a sudden end at the very tip is a little disconcerting.

Returning to the van, I moved several hundred yards inland to the start of the Cook’s Cove Walkway. For some reason (and I don’t yet know the answer), Cook chose to land at a tiny cove just off the southern end of the bay. It’s small, hidden by cliffs and has no beach. I’m not sure why he chose that place rather than the larger bay next door. It’s possible that it was the closest and easiest landing site to the waterfall he’d seen (signifying fresh water).

Setting off up the hill, the first part of the walk ascended through fields of sheep. Yes, they really do grow sheep in New Zealand. Having reached the top of the cliff, the path followed the ridge before coming to a viewing platform high over Cook’s Cove. Looking down, the rest of the trip would be through natural forest. Descending through the trees, I was struck (not literally) by the significance of the goats and sheep beneath these trees; were these goats the very descendents of those brought by Cook? Walking through the tee-tree groves, the pleasant aroma, kingfishers and keas kept me company (and the mobile phone going off, several times) as I made my way down to the cove.

On reaching the flood plain, I first made my way to the Hole in the Wall. This is the very spot upon which Captain Cook stood to survey the land whilst his crew filled their barrels with fresh water. I find it amazing that Cook, given the secret mission to “go boldly in the interests of science” stood where I stood. Have you realised the similarity between Cook and Star Trek? Both have a captain called James, one Cook the other Kirk. Their ships were the Endeavour and the Enterprise. One was asked to “go boldly”, the other “to boldly go” …

Standing at the cove, I met up with some archaeologists (as you do). These guys were busy sorting through a 600 year old layer in which was a Moa nesting site. I enquired whether they expected to find any remains of Cook’s visit, simply because there was such a large number of people in such a small space, someone was bound to have dropped something. He agreed that it was possible, although more likely that any such article would have been washed away though erosion.

3 hours after leaving the van, I arrived back, totally exhausted and dripping with sweat. Although it wasn’t a hot day, the temperatures in these clear southern climes have more of an affect on the body than those back in the UK.

Napier

Next stop Napier, some 200km to the south. I was not planning to stop en route but the journey was very pleasant passing through vineyards, farm land and eventually native forest and gorges. Towards the end of the journey, the heavens opened and it was very difficult to see the road ahead. This got me thinking about the ability of the automatic engine and how, I think, it fails to cope with the road conditions. Its primary purpose appears to be to get into the highest gear possible at the earliest opportunity. This means that, going downhill, you’re likely to enter a 40kph corner in 5th gear, foot hard on the brake, and the engine will change into 4th (not 3rd) halfway round. This results in the very dangerous practise of being halfway round a corner whilst in neutral. Not a pleasant feeling. I ended up using the manual paddles on the steering wheel after a while and getting much better control.

Anyway, whinge over! I arrived in Napier in the drizzle. Although the town of Napier goes back to the early 1900’s, the modern town was built in the 1930’s following a massive earthquake (7.9 Richter) in 1931 which raised the seabed some 6 feet. 300 square km of new land was created - making it rather interesting to see the original cliffs and coast several miles inland! As a consequence, most of the town was rebuilt in the Art Deco style. I have to confess, that I expected to see the odd building here and there, but was very surprised to find vast areas in this style, although not all have been sympathetically modernised.

Unfortunately, the drizzle has done nothing to ensure Napier is shown in its good light. It’s been rather miserable walking through the shopping centre and marine in the rain and wind, the matt grey sky not helping to show the vivid colours of the buildings. Funnily enough, the road works aren’t helping either, although it is quite pleasant walking on carpet!

Distance travelled: 320km / 200 miles

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Photos

Tolaga Bay Wharf
At 600m, the longest wharf in the southern hemisphere