Coromandel

---

Sorry about the long break between entries, but I was literally living in a barn for the last 2 weeks. We drove to Coromandel, stopping overnight in Taupo where we soaked in some natural pools. We stayed near Port Charles (pop. 79) in the far northern part of Coromandel. Now, technically, we stayed in a “wool shed” (where they sheared sheep a week earlier), but to me, anything that has had animals in it constitutes a barn. There was a wall dividing the sheep area from the living area at least. It did have electricity and indoor plumbing, but the water heater was broken most of the time and the water looked like milk when it came out of the tap. It rained everyday and night from Wed-Sun. We had Sunday off so we drove into Thames, a two hour drive, to get food and soak up a little civilization. I have mixed feelings about the whole experience. It was amazing, horrible, and everything in between.
We mostly worked with Moehau Environmental Group (http://www.meg.org.nz/) setting rat, stoat, and possum traps. Now, I know killing animals doesn’t seem like conservation, but these animals are non-native pests and they are the cause of the near extinction of many native species (plants and animals) including the Kiwi. Fortunately we just set the traps and didn’t have to deal with dead things (except clearing the rat traps every morning). The project has set 1000’s of traps over the area because it is prime Kiwi habitat and its location makes it ideal to erect a pest free zone where other species can be reintroduced. We were very fortunate to be there for the release of 70 Brown Teals (the second rarest duck in the world). They were flown in from Christchurch where they were bred and we witnessed their first release into the wild. Before they were blessed by a Maori chief and afterwards there was a BBQ. The other spectacular moment was holding a Kiwi in my arms as it was radio tagged. Once a year the tags have to be changed because the batteries run out and it gives researchers a chance to check their condition. While NZ is very famous for these birds, they are endangered and nocturnal. Very few Kiwis themselves have seen a wild Kiwi much less held one. It’s an experience I will never forget.
There was a beautiful white sand, turquoise watered beach near us, but we usually worked until dark and it rained on our day off so we didn’t get to enjoy it. Mostly the trapping involved climbing through, over and under bush without trails. We carried the traps with us as we navigated, placing traps every 25 meters. I enjoyed using only a compass and GPS to navigate through the forest. We got to know the bush well, but carried walkie-talkies just in case. It would take hours though and the only way out is to keep going. Trees and scrubs scratched up any exposed skin, vines entangled us, and everything was damp even if it had stopped raining. There were many inclines we had to climb and the plants aren’t deeply rooted in the soil (that erodes under your feet) and they would break off in your hands, leaving little to grip. Downhill was almost worse because it was hard not to slip. At times the decaying material (leaves mostly) on the ground was so thick you would sink in up to your knees. Every day I was wet, exhausted, and muddy. It got old quick, and I was very happy to leave, especially after the last couple of nights of bitter cold (we had no heating of any sort).
I asked to be dropped off on the way back to Wellington, in the town of Rotorua. Two major things I wanted to do in NZ were here. On Friday, I traveled to Waitomo to experience black water rafting (rafting underground rivers) through glowworm caves. Glowworms live in underground caves and emit light to attract food. There are millions all glowing together on the cave walls and its like being out in the wilderness on a cloudless night and staring up at all the stars. They were beautiful! To get into the cave we had a 27 meter abseil (rappel), which is about 80 feet, into the cave. It was the best part. The rafting part was actually toobing and it was a little tamer than I would have liked.
Lastly, I couldn’t go to Rotorua and not Zorb (http://www.zorb.com/). Zorbing is uniquely Kiwi and involves sitting inside a plastic bubble while it is rolled downhill. They only had the wet Zorb available this particular day which meant my bubble had water inside (only enough to get you wet, so you don’t drown). Then I was pushed down the zigzag track. It was complete chaos, but I laughed the entire way down. I had no idea where I was going and I just slipped and slid all over up on the walls. It was awesome! For now, it’s back to Wellington and civilization.

---