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Published: January 22nd 2011
So finally Richard dropped us off at the climbing centre, we were both excited and relieved, he would not accept payment, he would only require a postcard at some point on our trip!
We got to "Bryces Rockclimbing cafe" which states on a sign outside " Run by climbers for climbers "
thank god! we thought to ourselves, well that was until we met Bryce, what a tit! His cafe/shop is located in the middle of nowhere, yet he has every conceivable object available to mankind in his shop for climbing, that includes guide books for the UK, and equipment used for big wall climbing in Yosemite valley USA. Not that useful on a 30metre high crag in NZ.
First he tried to sell us everything instead of hiring, which we had agreed via email, wanted us to pay $35 to sleep in his lodge rather than $6 a night to camp then he told us he was closing for 3 days, due to a cyclone approaching!
So here was our dilemma, we had struggled to get down to this climbing area with limited food rations, the cafe was closing for 3 days, Bryce would not serve us
any food or drinks after 4pm that day, rain was forecast for the next 3 days. We had to organize a bus pick up to travel west to Waitimo caves in 3 days time, which was over 55k away. Bryce would not let us use his land line phone or internet (to call a free phone number in NZ) as we had no mobile signal, even though we had just hired $250 worth of equipment from him........ "a cafe run by climbers for climbers my arse!!!!!!"
We bought the last remaining packets of pringles and any other shit he had on his shelf, as we now had the big possibility of having to walk 55k out of this place after our climbing was done, with very limited food. we also bought 2 beers and a bottle of wine and sat outside the front of his cafe to gather our thoughts and ration our food for the next few days.
Ilona sums it up well "Our original thoughts where that we would camp with lots of nice climbers from all over the globe, tie friendships for life,climb, laugh, BBQ, and drink from the vineyards, instead we are sat on
plastic furniture staring at scorched brown grass, with flies buzzing around our heads..............."
CLIMBING AT LAST
That night it rained, and rained and rained. It looked like there was little chance of us getting out to climb but we walked down any way, one can only hope!!!
To our amazement it was dry!!! well here we go, gear sorted and before i new it i was clipping the first runner, surprisingly calm, considering my lead climbing had been terrible since i dislocated my shoulder in a fall a few months back, before i new it i was lowering down off the route, done and dusted!!!!
Next route looked difficult, 30m, Just getting up the overhanging start was hard, first runner clipped, second runner was scary, having to hook my heel around the arete in order to clip, if you missed the clip and slipped you would hit the floor from around 15m, no doubt with a pair of mangled legs. The third runner was half way up a concave bit of wall. Ilona followed me up in slightly better style bridging the gap and moving up slowly.
Ilona was climbing well, i was getting tired after the first two
our cameraman
our dearest peece of equipment!!routes, trying to route find and work out the moves on a rock type that i had never climbed before (volcanic) whilst leading is a bit stressy!
Ilona took up the rains and fancied a crack at leading the next route, i looked at it and to be honest the first clip was to high for my liking even though i was climbing well, off she went, first clip in, second clip in third clip in! she was flying until the crux.
From where i was standing belaying i could not see the sequence of moves to go around the block or over it, it looked hard as nails, Ilona was nervous, climbing in and out of the crack on the right side, trying to find any little grip available in order to progress higher to the next clip to place a runner, in order to make herself safe. The route was still damp.
After a long struggle she lowered off and i had a crack at the route, i left the safety runners in Ilona had already placed, because i didnt fancy doing that first clip again (leg-break-landing.com) I got around the crux with a wild hopeful swing,
and a lot of groaning. That was the end of that day we were so tired.
We arrived back at the camp and while we where relaxing in the tent, 4 little fat kids were riding round and round our tent on motorcycles in some sort of encirclement manoeuvre , like the days when indians used to to it to cowboys. We seen or heard these little blighter's every day, other than that, there was no other form of life in this 3 house town.
Just before they left they shouted over, "hey Mr do you know there is a cyclone coming tonight?"
18th january.......
after a tent pole bending windy night, no sleep laying in our sleeping bags with ear plugs in and my sleeping mat going flat every 2 hours, we set off for our last day of climbing. After a night like that you kind of forget how hungry you are! (we climbed for 2 days eating only 1pkt noodles are 2 cereal bars)
we did another route, which was very daring, Ilona had to summon bravery from beyond in order to get out onto the arete, she did us proud, it was very
exposed climbing!!! fantastic climbing is to be had in this area, then i attempted a steep slab route, in which i went off route a couple of times, having to back track and reverse some difficult moves.
Tiring all the time as i desperately searched for a way up the steep blank face, always just on my tip toes my calf muscles where screaming at me as i tried to summon the courage to do the next move, PING....... i was off arms and legs flapping as the safety runner clattered under the shock of my weight. Bummer, the onsight was gone, i was burnt out and i could feel the pain of the last 20 minutes trying to get up this route.........
We went back to the camp happy with our efforts and tired, we ate the last of the days rations, packed the tent and started our long long walk(3-4 days) to Te Awantui.
Good bye Bryce you cock.
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Tot: 0.057s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 15; qc: 25; dbt: 0.0257s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Jillybean (Marion Jill)
non-member comment
I boo
I booed at Brice when I read about his "climbers for climbers" i think he should delete that as his cafe's quote. what a shithead! If you guys come in Thailand we should climb and use my equipments for free I could even treat u beer and we'd talk about the crux of a rock at the end of the day. More adventures for you guys! Keep climbing strong. That was an experience.