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Published: March 30th 2010
Bridge to Nowhere
Mangapurua Valley Scenic ReserveMatemateaonga Track & The Bridge to Nowhere
Whanganui National Park
This should be called five go bush... as we did get a bit feral on this short but enjoyable local tramp where we were joined by Wal, Fran and Hen (who forgot his trousers but not his ability to whine).
This trip was taken in Christmas of 2001 and is one of a series of family tramps that our extended family does.
We started off with a jet boat ride up the Whanganui River with extended family for a visit the “Bridge to Nowhere”
Tech Note
To ‘h’ or not to ‘h’ such a big debate over such a little (silent) letter…. Maybe it’s her name but Hel (who hails from Wangadonga) thinks all words can be improved by the addition of an h and so has always been a supporter of Whanganui.
The Bridge to Nowhere
Mangapurua Valley Scenic Reserve
The bridge was built by a Government scheme to open up the Mangapurua Valley to provide land for farming for returned soldiers. A previous timber swing bridge for horse traffic was erected in 1919 connecting the isolated valley with a steamer
Jet Boat
Whanganui River jetty on the Whanganui River.
Following many years of “agitation by settlers” (yip - that’s the official record) a new concrete bridge was built in 1936 to provide vehicle access. Basically it opened just in tome to accommodate the settlers return to civilisation as after six years the valley was abandoned as it was not fertile enough for farming. After enduring 20 years of hardship for no gain, the last of the settlers walked off their land in 1942.
We had a great trip up the river and a short walk into the bridge provided great photo ops (despite Hel forgetting to load her camera) and was greatly appreciated by the family of bridge nuts, so you will have to forgive the following stats.
Tech Notes
The bridge:
* Is a fine example of 1930/40s ferro-concrete style bridges concrete with a span of 34.1 metres
* Features include substantial abutments and elegant fluted balustrades.
* Has a slender deck is a slender 3.1 metre wide, 38 metres above water.
* Was designed by the Public Works Department, built by private contractors Sandford and Brown of Raetihi
* Is registered by Historic Places Trust in 1994 as
Matemateaonga Track
Whanganui National Park category one heritage.
* Had major concrete repairs were undertaken in 1996.
The bridge’s distinctive character is derived from its extraordinary setting spanning a steep papa ravine amidst encroaching forest.
And if you ever need proof of this then take a look at the stunning Anne Noble photos, the one we took on this site is a mere imitation.
After years of neglect, the bridge was brought back into use - as a tourist attraction in Whanganui National Park. If forms part of the Mangapurua Walkway.
Matemateaonga Track
Whanganui National Park
While most people walk in from the Kohi Saddle via Stratford, we chose to be deposited on by the Whanganui River, with a towering sheer papa riverbank cliff to scale to get up to the first DOC hut - Puketotara Hut.
If you want to go in from the other side the, then the track can be reached from SH 43 at Strathmore, east of Stratford - look for the Upper Mangaehu Road signpost, the track entrance at Kohi Saddle is 20 minutes away.
If you are not keen on returning back the way you walk in you will need to arrange a jet boat pick up before you leave - check with DOC or the
Going Up
Whanganui River various tour operators in Whanganui City.
The 42km track is can be walked in 3 to 4 days and is an old Maori trail and settlers dray road, the Whakaihuwaka Road built in 1911 to create a more direct link between Stratford and Raetihi (where it lined up with the main trunk railway).
There are kilometre posts along the track from Kohi Saddle to Puketotara Hut, though at times these seam to be more then a km apart!
Tech Notes
* For the geographically inclined, the area is formed of soft sandstone and ocean bed mudstone - papa - that has been (and continues to be) eroded by water to form sharp ridges, deep gorges, sheer papa cliffs and waterfalls.
* For the botanically inclined the area is a mix or original and re-grown broadleaf-podocarp forest of Beech, Kamahi, Kowhai, Rata, Rewarewa, Rimu and Tawa. Punga (tree ferns) and other forms of ferns and native plants that cling to the steep riverbanks. Interestingly Matemateaonga is the Maori name for a local form of giant stinging nettle - which you don’t wont to run into!
* Fauna along the way include native birds such as
Kereru, Miromiro, Riroriro, Tiwaiwaka, Tui, Toutouwai apparently you can hear Brown Kiwi and spot long tailed bats at night. We saw more signs of imported goats and possums.
Day 1 - Whanganui River to Puketotara Hut
Time: Forever
The say it takes an hour to climb down from the hut to the river. At the end of the day, with full packs and the light failing in the steep river valley it takes a lot long to climb up from the river!
Still it’s easy enough to sit down and take in the:
Sweeping view over the Whanganui River with the Tongariro peaks lying on the eastern horizon
And there is a good hut at the top to look forward to. Scott & Fran scamper up first, get the fire going and come back to help heft Hen up the hill. Dinner is a big incentive!
Day 2 - Puketotara Hut to Pouri Hut
Time: 8 hr
As we started at the Puketotara Hut we had to walk up hill, but even though this is the longest stretch between huts, the track is an easy and pleasant walk.
The Ngapurua Shelter between the two huts made a great lunch stop (it apparently has the
Taking a break
Matemateaonga Track only reliable source of water on this section of the track)
We take turns to walk with Hen (mainly due to his constant complaining) and ration the stops to every 5 km posts.
Somehow, by the time we make it to Pouri Hut, Hen has developed a nose bled - “I didn’t do it” Scott mutters “despite provocation”. Hen’s main complaint, other then the lack of trousers is an ill fitting pack which he didn’t count on carrying all the way.
Wal is very impressed with the track maintenance, given the steep and slipper country, coupled with the high rainfall the track is in very good nick. We note in the hut book there are a lot of references to the “legendary Les” who looks after this track.
Day 3 - Pouri Hut to Omaru Hut
Time: 5 hr
The track basically runs along the ridge of the Matemateaonga Range, through fairly dense bush. We spot several goats doing their best to damage the forest.
We reach he old Humphries Hut and Scott and Fran go off in search of the wreck of a crashed plane, while the rest of the
part enjoy the view of Mt Humphries It is known by Maori as Whakaihuwaka (732m)
Made like the prow of a canoe, the name refers to the skyline shape of the mountain
While it’s not as long as the previous day, it’s still a fair hike, Scott and Fran disappear and like the first day, when they get to the hut the light the fire.
However, unlike the first day they don’t come back to help carry packs and jolly the rest of the party along.
Needless to say Hel, Wal and Hen where less then impressed when they finally made it into the hut to find the pair of them sound asleep!
The day ended with Les and his mate coming in after a day of track maintenance and having a good natter with Wal.
Turns out Les has four daughters too and therefore likes to spend a fair bit of time in the bush… it looked like Wal was seriously considering joining him!
Day 4 - Omaru Hut to the Road Home
Time: 5 hr+
We left Omaru Hut after a reasonable breakfast (and good coffee) Hen watched Les and his track mate chow down on a hearty breakfast of bacon and
Hel & Wal
Matemateaonga Track eggs was less then impressed with the muesli.
Still it was only a short walk to the end of the tack to go.
We crossed over the crest of the Matemateaonga Range and down through the bush to the road at the Kohi Saddle.
“Finally” Hen declared as he threw off his pack. “Sorry Hen, as we are a day early we have to walk to a phone to arrange a ride” was not the answer he expected.
When he failed to get up the rest of the party started off down the road..
Don’t leave me behind!
He wailed as he ran after us, “Never” said Hel, “hold my hand” as the set off at a pace to catch up.
Eventually we reached an abandoned home stay and a local came and collected us, providing us with hospitality till our ride home arrived.
In all a good walk, quote of the trip goes to Hen:
Can we do this again, next year!
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