Fiji - Yasawa Islands - Part 1

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Bula again!

Wednesday 19^th September – Bounty Island to Waya Lailai Island (Naqalia Resort) continued

My worst fear (that I was going to be the only one there!) looked about to be realised as I was the only person on the boat to Naqalia Resort! The sea was rough today and it was a struggle to get off the big boat onto the little boat, I had to jump. I was soon reassured when the little boat driver told me we’d be 4 on the island tonight, that was ok J We sped along the coast of Waya Lailai, past one of the villages and the Waya Lailai Eco Resort. Naqalia was tucked away in its own little cove and they were singing a welcome song from the beach. I was given the warmest welcome and when Mere gave me a hug I felt instantly at home. I was ushered into the little restaurant where they insisted I have breakfast and I met Faye from Brisbane, who had been coming to Way Lailai for 30 years with her husband David (so it must be ok!). David was on the island somewhere helping to build a house. I checked into my nice and cosy dorm, which had a lovely breeze coming through. I’d be on my own but with Shaun (a really nice Australian who I met before lunch) had his room next door (poor him… you’ll find out why later!). The resort buildings sat on a long wide grassy verge, right off the beach so I was VERY close to the sea but was reassured to find a nice big hill behind. I felt really happy about the place; even though there was no phone signal because Fiji Vodafone was down (I eventually managed to find some with Fiji O2 using my home SIM). The sound of a chainsaw and smell of freshly cut grass was adding to the atmosphere and I had a wander around taking photos. The chainsaw operator (the friendly Fish) wanted to take a photo… it’s not my best but I’ve kept it because you can see the horrible mosquito bites I have all over my face, there were 6 of them. Faye, Shaun (on holiday from Melbourne, was his 2^nd visit to the island, he’s a character), Robbie (from the USA, really nice but leaving that afternoon) and I had lunch whilst listening to the guitar and singers. Afterwards we all chatted for ages about celebrities, travel and sunburn.

I settled down on the beach for the afternoon, it was lovely. I was sat on my own on this beautiful tropical beach, with no sign of anyone (even though I knew they were about, Mere had made sure I was ok on my own). How lucky and I? I read my book and played roulette with the waves; they were coming closer and closer to my position! I wanted to go for a swim but the sea was a bit rough which meant I couldn’t see where I was walking. The shade came and swept over the beach so I went to read in a hammock. Shaun was now back from taking Robbie to the big boat and he called me over to have tea and biscuits with the men behind the kitchen; it was really nice to feel part of the family. Shaun showed me his reef shark feeding pictures and it was fascinating… they were so big! He was trying to get me to do it; I said I’d think about it! I went off for a cold shower (would have rather done without but I really had to wash my hair, it was so horrible after not washing the salt water out the previous night) in my bikini (no real privacy). It wasn’t too bad, the biggest problem was avoiding the curtain that kept blowing into the cubicle in the wind and sticking to me. Shaun had asked the guys at tea if there was any hot water… they looked at me as if I was mad and asked why I’d want hot water… as soon as I told them where I was from (i.e. chilly England) they understood and offered to take me to another resort or boil up some water for me (I politely declined, had to man up!). I got dressed in the dark before someone came to ask me why I didn’t have the light on. It wasn’t working and I’d just dealt with it but they sent Fish over to sort it out. He deftly jumped up into the beams, changed the bulb and swung back down. I got myself dosed up on Telfast (Aussie version of Clarityn) and Papaw cream for the mozzy bites and headed to dinner. There were just a few of the family watching TV so I walked down to the beach. Seva, the nice quiet guy who does all the water activities, was working out on the beach. I told him my friends at home would be soooooooooo jealous he could work out with that view. The sea was glowing a beautiful deep blue in the moonlight. I had a chat with him; he was born on the island and (as all the Fijian islanders are) is so knowledgeable about his home. We were watching the waves come in and he knew the exact moment when high tide had been reached and it started going back out. He said he was going for a swim… in the dark! We had a laugh when I jumped up because I’d sat under a nut tree and one had dropped out landing with a bump on my head, thankfully it wasn’t a big coconut! I met David at dinner and the four of us had a lovely evening. David and Shaun managed to convince me to do the shark feeding! We had an early night and that’s when the fun started for poor Shaun! I was being REALLY brave about everything until the electricity was switched off at 11pm. I kept reading with my head torch and started noticing all the creepy crawlies. I don’t normally mind them too much, and I was sleeping under a mozzy net but these were massive. I went to the loo and there was a HUGE cockroach, a big spider and a very long centipede/millipede. Shaun had to come and save me time and time again. I had to use the toilet about 3 times before I went to sleep and every time I saw something I was like ‘Shauuuunnnnnnnnnnnnn’ and he came bless him, he was so patient. I’d also start dropping off and then hear something (it was so windy outside) turn my head torch on and Shaun would see so he’d be “What is it now Rach?” He told me he didn’t mind at all because he found me amusing but in the end he did say “Where would you be most comfortable… do you want to swap beds as there doesn’t seem to be any bugs in my room?” I decided against because I’d seen a big cockroach run under the door into his room. In the end I settled down and got off to sleep, I had to get up once more in the night for the toilet but was REALLY brave.

Thursday 20^th September – Waya Lailai Island (Naqalia Resort)

I was up early for shark feeding, to be told that it was too windy and the sea was too rough! So I had breakfast and after helping the women peel the cassava (much easier the peeling potatoes) did some Uni work. David asked if I wanted to go for a walk over the hill to see the house being built for the matriarch of the family. So Shaun, Faye, David and I set off over the hill. It was a narrow, steep, overgrown path. It was very high up with steep drops down the cliff (even though the plants and trees didn’t make the drop look too bad). We saw plenty of garden patches; filled with pineapples, mangoes, cooking bananas, and plenty of natural plants used for medicine, David knew a lot of them. The water was crystal clear light blue. We dropped down to a little cove and the house was being built right on the beach. An amazing spot! David and Faye told us it was a slow process that would cost around $8000AUD in total, a lot in Fijian terms. The foundations had been laid and the frame was up… the next steps were to do more concreting and add the walls. The guys were over on the mainland at the moment collecting supplies (hadn’t been able to return in the boat due to cyclonic sea conditions) and the aim was to concrete the next day. I told David about my Dad’s previous occupation and he launched into a detailed explanation about how they went about it on the island; it was literally mixed by hand, they didn’t even use a motorised hand mixer. The spot had everything, an amazing view, a little garden patch (with washing hung up to dry over it, reminded me of home) and a little cave that could be used as a cyclone shelter. David and Faye told us that during the floods earlier in the year the whole area had been flooded, with water pouring down the mountain. The people in the house (they’re living in bunk beds under a canopy whilst it’s being built) had to leave immediately and stay with family in the nearby village. The weight of the water dislodged a massive rock off the cliff side and sent it crashing down the hill, luckily another big rock stopped if going down as far as the house. We walked over to the caves (past the indigenous pineapple, prettier than a normal pineapple plant); it was full of spider webs and there were freshwater pools with fish and yabbies’ which were illusive when David and Shaun were trying to find one to show me. We saw Billy clearing a big patch for vegetables, mostly cassava (the stable potato type food). Shaun was intent on finding me a yabby so enlisted Billy’s help and found a very small one. We climbed the steep hill behind the house because David wanted to show Shaun and I where the big rock had fallen, we moved slowly because it was so steep. We could see where the rock had sliced off the side of the cliff. We headed back down to the house and waited for a while because we’d seen Mere and Tui walk past to pick up a new arrival (the lack of boat meant that the next door resort had picked them up). We’d just decided we’d missed them when Millie, a family member at the house, told us she’d made us tea (a privilege) so we had that and then waited whilst David put some nails in the roof of the tin shed. It took a while so Shaun and I decided to head back for lunch, where we met our new arrival Neil from the UK! We had a nice chat then went to watch the guys net fishing; they’d see a shoal of fish come into the cove but were too late. The boys and I spent a nice afternoon on the beach before Fish gave us a coconut demonstration. He showed us how to weave (so difficult to remember the pattern and order) the leaves into roofing and baskets and how to open the coconut. He also told us stories about the past Fijians, the cannibals who didn’t kill for fun or sustenance… they killed enemies.

We watched the preparation of the traditional Lovo meal (like the Maori Hangi). The food is put in coconut leave baskets, wrapped in blankets and buried over hot coals under the soil. It’s the Fijian version of the BBQ and as in all cultures; the men take responsibility for the cooking…! We had a quick rest in the room before watching the opening of the Lovo (it smelled amazing – there was chicken, fish and veg in there!) and eating it for dinner whilst watching Australia vs. New Zealand at netball, very popular. We drank cava and sang with everyone and it was such a nice family atmosphere. The cava makes me really sleepy and it wasn’t long before we all headed to bed, I had a nice chat with the boys then settled down. I slept MUCH better that night and didn’t see any bugs, think having Neil in the room helped.

Friday 21^st September – Waya Lailai Island (Naqalia Resort) to Tavewa Island (Coral View Resort).

We were all up early (I found the most horribly big spider, dead in the doorway! Tui just picked it up!) to go reef shark feeding… but the boat hadn’t made it back so we couldn’t go! I was a little disappointed, had psyched myself up. So we went spear fishing with Seva… we’d got our snorkelling gear and onto the beach before Neil told us he’d never snorkelled before. Bless him, I’d be scared stiff. I gave him a quick lesson and stayed with him until he got confident, it didn’t take long. We swam a long way out, maybe 100 metres. I thought I’d freak but I didn’t. We were in quite deep water but there was no current and the sea wasn’t rough. I did thank my Mum and Dad for the swimming lessons though! It was the nicest coral I’d seen on Fiji (there were some interesting flowery things, a big blue starfish AND we saw a small Manta Ray gliding along) and for a while we watched Seva showing us how it was done. It’s incredibly impressive, he’s completely at home and so in control in the water and can hold his breath for several minutes. He’d go down, shoot, pick up his spear, shoot again and again before coming up for air (I’d have to shoot, come up for air, then go down to collect the spear before coming up for air again). Shaun had a go and wasn’t too bad. I had a go and it took me a while to understand how the spear worked, Shaun kept saying “it’s just like a slingshot”!) but I’ve understood them on land. I got to the point where I could shoot it but I didn’t get anything (was quite glad really!). A boat headed out to us and asked if we still wanted to feed the sharks…we did but we didn’t have enough time before I had to catch the big boat. We were quite happy spear fishing anyway. I hadn’t realised they still fished like this for themselves, but they do and although it was strange to see Seva shooting at the prettily coloured fish it’s a necessity for life. As we were doing that more guys were further down the bay fishing in a team with a net and snorkels.

We were in the water for about an hour before I realised I’d better go in to get ready for the boat. It turned into a complete rush! As soon as I was back on land I asked what time I had to leave and they said “now” so I had to put some clothes on, gather my things and head off dripping wet. I was so sad to leave; I love the place and fully intend to go back. I liked it because it was so homely and seemed so local and like I was living as a Fijian. I really did luck out having David, Faye and Shaun there because as they were regulars I think I saw and experienced more than normal. I had to rush my bye byes to them, probably a good job as I was feeling quite emotional. I gave everyone including Mere and Tui a hug. They sang as the boat sped off (Isa Lei, a popular farewell but come back song in Fiji) and I had a big lump in my throat. We got to the big boat and I got on in a bedraggled state which was embarrassing. I waved bye bye to Waya Lailai and watched it disappear into the distance as we sailed off. They didn’t seem too friendly at the back of the boat so once there was some space up top I went to enjoy the sun. It was a bit rough today and I realised that I was pretty much deaf, too much diving down under the water and not sorting out the pressure in my ears. I was dropping off to sleep when I was joined by a few people. I recognised Canadian Sarah from the hostel, the couple from Liverpool who’d sat in front of me on the bus transfer. Brian, a Canadian, I got chatting and he was coming to my next destination as was Sarah. So we headed north for the Blue Lagoon…

The Blue Lagoon lived up to it's name, the water was crystal clear and it was surrounded by many islands. We got to see a lot of it and there were several stop offs before ours for the Blue Lagoon. Sarah, Brian and I were joined in the boat by Sophie and Dominique from Belgium, they were lovely. We spent the afternoon chilling on the beach then got ready for dinner, a really nice buffet. There were about 10 of us staying overnight, including Allie, Emily and Marco who Sarah and Brian had met on their previous resort. Coral View arranged a cava ceremony and then lots of drinking cames including a version of my favourite... Ring of Fire! It's fair to say it all got a bit messy after that but we had fun!

Saturday 22nd September – Tavewa Island (Coral View Resort) and the Blue Lagoon

We all got up slowly and got ready for our morning trip to the caves, they began with S but I can't remember their whole name now! I was in the boat with Sophie and Dominique and we sped out across the Blue Lagoon and along the coast of the surrounding islands. It was so so beautiful, the beaches were typically tropical and empty of people. We stopped off at our guides village to pick up his cousins and have a chat with the local children... they got in the boat then we dropped them in the middle of the ocean so they could go spear fishing! They really were a long way off of the coast. We headed onto the caves and once there met up again with Joe and Lauren from Liverpool. I was a bit nervous about the caves, because they involved an underwater swim of about 2 metres through a narrow passageway. The swim didn't worry me, it was the pitch black on the other side that did and those that had already done it said that many people panicked... We all queued to get down into the caves and into the water... it was so cold but very clear! I was amazed to see a group of young Japanese tourists getting into the water, it was obvious a couple of them couldn't swim and they clung madly to the rocks. I really felt for them but they were helping each other out. I watched the first few people doing the underwater swim (could see their path lit by the guides torches under the water through my snorkel) and decided that I wasn't going to do it. It didn't look hard but I didn't want to panic on the other side (the others confirmed on their return it wasn't really worth it). The guide came back for me once he'd seen everyone else through, bless him but I'd already decided on not going. It was quite dangerous... when Joe came back through he came up under a sharp rock and cut his head badly. We swam around for a while until we got cold (the Japanese non swimmers tried to make the swim on their own until they were told NO by a guide... Brian and Sarah who came down a bit later told us they had done it which I think is very brave for a non swimmer). We sped back to Coral View (we'd also picked up a local Fijian lady and child) along the beaches, stopping off on the way to look for our guides cousins. We had to scan the horizon until we saw a snorkel, they'd been out there for over an hour! We found them and they came into the boat with their haul... several tropical fish (we normally exclaim at how beautiful they are... and here they were on a long hook) and a big turtle! It was impressive... sad to see but it's neccessity for them. I was struggling to see the turtle thrashing about though... I asked why they didn't kill it now and they looked at me as if I was crazy, it hadn't occurred to them. I asked the lady how they'd kill it and she told me by cutting out it's heart. It's just their way of life.

Back at Coral View we had lunch and enjoyed the supporting sing song, then we had to say bye to Allie, Emily and Marco. It's always sad to say bye to the friends you've made travelling, especially when you've known them for such a short time and know you'd be great friends if you knew them for longer. We'll keep in touch. And then it was onto the afternoons activities...

Next up… more of Coral View Resort on Tavewa Island and the Blue Lagoon!

Xx

NOTE: I use these updates to capture my memories and share what I'm doing on my travels with friends, family and anyone who’s interested enough to read. The views are my own and I try my best to ensure any information I share is fair and accurate but I do sometimes get things wrong. I welcome any feedback so I can make improvements and corrections for future readers. Thank you.

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