"Kia Orana" - Leg Two


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Oceania » Cook Islands » Rarotonga
January 21st 2006
Published: February 7th 2006
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... 17:55 Muri Beach, Rarotonga. I have been on the move now since 09:00 EST. Though the miles travelled, the time zones crossed and the jetlag accrued, nothing compares, nothing at all to the distance in emotion, and personal endeavour...

...The South Pacific Ocean. A seemingly endless stretch of turquoise blue - the sight and symbol of tranquility itself. And somewhere, just east of the international date line, rising up magestically through the clear waters is a volcanic island. Dense, deep...LUSH. Fringed and softened by a ribbon of white sands stands Rarotonga. The whitish colour sandwiched between the vibrant green of the island and turquoise blue of the sea is enough to indulge any artist. Still, if that were not enough, there is a passionate alluring, a teasing, of every other human sensory perception - hot air, sweet smell and the sound of silence. Wildlife, flora and fauna prettier and more colourful than any I have ever seen. And fruit - on every tree there is to be found papaya, banana, mango, lychee, coconut... one would never go hungry here. And, in all it's natural abundance, Rarotonga provides further still. Her greatest and by far her finest resource are her people. In their eyes I see a kindness and in their Being, a stillness that is unmistakable...

...And that, is where I begin my story. For having wanted initially to boast about the material adventures of the day, it all pales into insignificance when I consider the encounters that I have experienced...

...Aware (just about) that it was a Saturday and I had to move quickly to get myself prepared for the weekend, I stood out in the searing heat in search of cash access and other supplies. As I waited for the local bus, I met a gorgeous young Maori couple from New Zealand. Our discussion ended with a discovery that her best friend and I are of the same ancestoral origins! It was quickly becoming apparent that this tour would be providing more than I had hoped. And, at an appropriate time too - for, as idyllic as this location was, I was feeling awfully homesick. My cell phone had no signal and internet access was impossible until Monday. Feeling alone and disconnected, I accompanied the couple into town. There, I was caught sight of by Carl and Pua who parked up, and drove me to do some grocery shopping with them. Then, back to their home. Wow. All of a sudden, I was in the picture postcards into which I had stared for so long. Theirs, was a wonderful home in the Rarotongan fields - surrounded by animals and fruit trees. The building was stucco peach, and the interiors a mahogany brown. As children played and laughed, they told me about the island and it's history. We munched together on fresh coconut and papaya, picked from outside. Upon discovering my passion for fruit - they led me into the farmland and let me pick armfuls of fruit to take home with me. They drove me around the island and back to the lodge where I had a cup of mint tea with the European couple downstairs...

...Still homesick, the heavens responded - rainfall. Not like any rain, but tropical downpour, soothing my every qualm, the clouds descended, the air thickened and the greenery darkened. I ran outside to feel the rain on my skin. Mmmm. It stopped almost as quickly as it had started but provided enough fuel for me to head down to the beach. There, I bumped into a group of British
My footprintsMy footprintsMy footprints

leaving less of a mark on Muri Lagoon, than it left on me...
travellers, one of whom I had encountered back in London...

...sitting as the sunset illuinates the pages of my journal, and I sit, looking out to the sea, bathing in the soft warm breeze approaching off it's surface, I feel.. confident. Confident that whatever else this trip presents will not be by chance. There was something, something that intuitively and powerfully called me out here and now, it is time to just get out of the way and let life happen...

... and happen it did. is...

...I sit. Supported by soft white sand and smooth black rocks that warm my back. I smile. The sun illuminates the scene and darkens my skin. The water tickles my feet. Beneath and beyond, the water provides an unquestioning sense of tranquility. I smile at the meaninglessness and emptiness of it all - of life itself, and of our human nature to attribute meaning, purpose and incomprehension. But that of course is the game. So, let's play..

...I went to Church yesterday morning. (yes, I made it, after being locked out of my room Saturday night). Church is not really my kinda game, but I am ever drawn by the cultural depth and warm heartedness of the people. (of course, the feed afterward helped)! I entered the glowing white walls in the bright morning sun and was shown to my seat. From there on, I was whisked away by the magic of the music - my first gospel experience was a melodic paradise. I stayed of course for the customary refreshments and visitor introductions and again, re-acquired the sense of pride and passion for my origins that is renewed each time I travel and people are positively intrigued by our cultural roots... there is an inquisitive sparkle in their eyes upon the affirmation that I am actually ancestorally Indian. I met some of the locals including a lad who later came to find me at the lodge. For him, I spared no time, for I was busying myself with the BBQ. After dark, I walked up the unlit path back into the mountains that housed the lodge, guided only by the sounds of animals in the night...

...I opened my eyes to the sunrise. The glass pane that stretched from ceiling to floor and wall to wall, facing my bed enabled me to be woken by natural alarm clocks of sunlight and the rooster. Admitedly he didn't get me up at 6am today and I lay til 07:00.. eventually he won. He always does. Attempting yoga feeling unearthed isn't the most pleasant of times to practise but often the best. Today was not the case. If all else fails, a good shower never does. And, as I stood under the hard patter of cold water, a shower of a different kind came to soothe my soul. Once again, I ran outside. Rain. That soothing, cleansing, nourishing liquid of life. It poured and pelted onto the island. Standing outside, everything was all of a sudden alright... everything was... as right as rain...

...For much of the day I subjected my skin to the searing heat, as I explored the island. Wiltering I, for some unknown reason walked in an illogical direction.. to find..Tom, whose quivering, deep blue piercing eyes I shall never forget. I didn't uptake him on the invitation to visit his home, the biggest house on the island...

...Wednesday it rained. Heavily. So, I went with Svein, hired a mountain bike and rode around the island, drenching myself in magical moments....Yum...The evening, not so yum
and more!and more!and more!

up on my balcony, ain't he a cutey?!
as I began to experience the advantages as well as the drawbacks of travelling alone. Tupe came again this evening, with more than a bag of fruits. I learned an immense amount about the islands, about the Maori culture and the lands. I learned too, of the black pearl farmed off Manihiki island and of which I have been invited to become a technician. Hm, interesting...

...This morning after a swim in the crystal clear lagoon of Muri beach, I took a bus, without purpose, without direction and without intent. I simply sat by the open window and allowed hot air to blow through my hair and onto my face....

...escaped today to another world. This time an underwater one. Equipped with snorkelling gear, I swam through the tropical sealife as if in the television documentaries I had watched prior to departure. Magical...

...the night before departure, I sit in the perfect midnight temperature, caressed by a warm breeze from the balcony, gazing out into the stillness of the pitch black night. I munch on a chilled papaya, scooping it's soft yellow flesh straight from the skin. I reminisce about my week here in paradise, a tropical dreamland in every sense. The colours, sights, sounds, smells and of course, people. Where else in the world is one greeted by "kia Orana" (may you live long)? This one welcoming phrase alone, and the sweet sencerity with which it is said is sufficient to demonstrate the way of life here - open hearts and open arms. And it is into these Maori hearts and arms that I have fallen. I would not hesitate to reuturn to the South Pacific islands. Tonight's cultural show of Maori music and dance was all it took to uplift my spirits after a turbulent day that neither yoga nor the grey skies were able to quell...

...so, at the end of a long week, I find myself a gorgeous golden bronze, accessorized by a plentitude of insect bites, adorned by a now securely fastened necklace, somewhat lonely and very, very tired..Rarotonga gave me the perfect goodbye with a pink sunrise, followed by another tropical downpour. Soaking wet, I fondly petted Kevin the cat and parted. Learning to cope with the crap that is merely incidental to this voyage - the cold, the wet, the heat, the backache, the cramped airplanes, the food, and the fright... On I move to - New Zealand.


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3rd February 2006

I am so happy for you!!!!! i hope this is just the beginning of something greater than what you are living now. kisses!

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