Coral Bay and Exmouth

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May 20th 2014

Published: May 20th 2014

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billandJackie

Coral Bay

The ditches are still full of water following the downpour

I seem to have messed up the flow of these blogs and have got some of the sequence wrong so if they don't follow on try searching the complete list.

We make our way toward Coral Bay without much hope of getting there! It has been raining hard and Coral Bay and Exmouth have been hit hard with news reports of local flooding and roads closed.Our alternative destination is Tom Price the gateway to Karijini National Park with thoughts of backtracking when the floods have gone . We arrived at the Overlander roadhouse which is just short of the turnoff to Coral Bay and pull in for fuel.The owner tells us that all roads heading North are currently closed because of flood water and would likely be so for at least a further day,however the road to Coral bay was now open.We telephone the Caravan parks in Coral Bay , all open for business with vacancy's for powered sites,decision made we make for Coral Bay.

Coral Bay a collection of caravan parks,a holiday resort,holiday homes,a small residential area together with some essential shops are what makes Coral Bay.Metres off shore and reached by wading or swimming through shallow pristine

Coral Bay

We are here at Ningaloo Reef

clear water is the Ningaloo Reef one of the worlds largest fringing reefs.It stretches from just north of Exmouth to a few kilometers past Coral bay and reaches nearly 20 kilometers out to sea. Ningaloo reef is a Coast World Heritage Area and is one of the worlds major breeding areas for sea turtles.The reef is also home to over 500 species of tropical fish and 220 species of coral.Dolphins,manta rays, dugongs also live along this reef with many other visiting migratory animals.Coral Bay is home to the largest known dugong population in the world, mainly because of it's vast area of sea grass just off the coast. Migratory whale sharks are seen in these waters beginning in March when the coral spawns and leave again in July.These giants of the sea can reach over 18 metres in length and weigh as much as 11 tonnes, eating only plankton they are of no threat to other beings including humans.

A huge tourist industry has been developed around the wonders of the Ningaloo reef and all tastes are catered for. Snorkeling,diving,deep sea fishing and coral viewing via a glass bottom boat are all readily available at both Coral bay and

Coral Bay

One of the many secluded beaches

Exmouth with tours and hire equipment on almost every corner.

We chose to stay in the first caravan park we came to in Coral Bay aptly called Bay View just across the road from the beach.Once settled in we put on the togs picked up the snorkels and flippers and headed off to the beach.High tide meant we had to wade out about 50 metres before putting on our snorkeling gear and plunging into the crystal clear warm water over the reef.What a sight with coral in many shapes and sizes and although not vividly bright their colours were breathtaking. Dozens of different species of fish darting through the coral gave a flash of colour to the scene,some very tiny with blue and red strips some larger with yellow and white markings.So many fish and so may different sizes and colours and in only a couple of metres of water.I have never come across a pan sized Snapper before except on the end of of a fishing line or on a plate, but here they are swimming in front of me almost in defiance, knowing they are in a conservation area and no fishing is allowed off this beach.

Coral Bay

View of the bay from view point

We snorkeled for ages wondering at the shear beauty of this underwater world so close to the shore and although not alone in the water there was plenty of space for us and other swimmers to enjoy the reef.The next day we gave the reef a miss but returned the day after for some more wonders of the reef before leaving for Exmouth.

Coral Bay is situated in The Cape Range National Park and a short drive out is a 4x4 track that follows the coast north towards Exmouth extreme caution is advised and only competent 4x4 drivers are encouraged to undertake the complete journey.Being solo and not having any backup we only venture a short way into the park however we did manage to get a glimpse of this magnificent coastline and are amazed at the turquoise colour of the sea and Jackie her first taste of 4x4 self driving.

Our caravan park had a swimming pool heated from an underground bore which we made use of each late afternoon before settling down to happy hour followed by dinner.It's time to leave and head for Exmouth a place we had heard so much about and where a

Coral Bay resort

This kite made to look like a bird of prey fly's over the swimming pool and gardens in the resort to keep other birds away and it works.

friend of ours once worked as a diver.

Exmouth is a mecca for water sports and caters for all you can think of but it is not all about water sports for Exmouth sits at the tip of Cape Grange National park with a drive along the coast past Vlamingh head lighthouse and once ww11 radar station. This coastal drive takes in numerous cliff viewing stations and many secluded beaches one such beach is clothing optional! Some of these beaches a exceptional with golden sand and shallow turquoise water safe for swimming or just sunbathing.The drive 75ks one way from Exmouth ends at Yardie Creek a gorge which opens up to the ocean,protected by a sand bar the ocean only breaches this bar entering the gorge in exceptional weather at which time the gorge water is cleaned and replenished.

Exmouth is also home to a RAAF base airfield and a listening station for communicating with submarines and others both based out of town, the steel towers of the listening towers can be seen many kilometres away and serve as a reminder of the need to stay in touch with the rest of the world.

We decide to

Coral Bay

The beach just over from the camp site

stay at the Lighthouse caravan park 15ks out of town at the start of the coastal drive and at the base of the Viamingh Head lighthouse.The lighthouse was built as a direct result of the sinking of the SS Mldura the remains of which can still be seen off shore today. Our first couple of days are spent exploring the coastal drive and local heritage.A memorial built alongside the lighthouse commemorates the role of the radar station once housed here during ww11.The drive along the coast is beautiful with rolling hills on one side and turquoise waters on the other. Calling in at at a variety of bush camps to see how they were set up we were surprised to find them well ordered and maintained and nearly all full. Some however are closed due to flood damage and we witness the aftermath of the rain and floods as we pass by the remains of swollen creeks and the debris left behind, some roads heading inland remain closed. With names like Turquoise Bay,Oyster Stacks the beaches are fantastic.On reaching Yardie Creek we find another bush camp well set up.A short walk takes you to a viewing platform overlooking the water

Coral Bay

filled gorge on which boat trips are available to view the gorge from a different angle twice a day.A longer walks takes you to the head of the gorge and a higher viewpoint.

We call back into Exmouth for supply's and to meet up with Steve a friend of our friend who used to work here.Steve now owns a tackle shop and was pleased we had called in, we exchanged comments about our mutual friend and received some local advice about the area and also where we were going to visit next Tom Price and the national Park.

There was one last activity to be considered, snorkeling with the Whale Sharks,following discussion with a couple of fellow caravaners who had been on such a trip we decided to book a day on the water with reef snorkeling and swimming with the Whale Sharks.What a day with delights and drama's all around.Our first snorkel was not far from the coast but to far to swim to, we snorkeled over a Bommy which I am told is the name for a small patch of coral. Much different from the coral at coral bay with a more abundance of fish and

Coral Bay

a wider selection of coral it was spectacular. Lasting only 30 min we headed off past the breakwater fringing the reef with it's smashing waves and rolling seas in search of Whale Sharks.Spotter planes search from above to try and spot these creatures and radio their position to the small flotilla of boats that are on the same quest as us.On our journey we are given information about the Whale Sharks and their lifestyle together with their history.Safety and our behavior around the swimming with these magnificent creatures are also a feature of the briefing. Our first Whale Shark is sighted and we are formed into two teams of ten, no more than ten people are allowed in the water with the Whale Sharks at any one time.We are in team two and wait with excitement,our turn comes and we are in the water swimming alongside a Whale Shark What a THRILL. The experience only lasts a couple of minutes,trying to keep up with this monster is hard work and we head back for the boat.This is were the drama begins although I had taken some ginger sea sickness pills before heading off they did not work for me and

I became sea sick to the point of throwing up in the toilet,no more swimming with the Whale Sharks for me.Jackie managed one more swim before also becoming sick and she has never been sea sick before,so that was two of us out of the game.No one else suffered sea sickness on our boat but there were reports of other people on other boats becoming ill also.I must add the ocean swells were over three metres high and at times it was difficult to see swimmer s the water.After some time we both recovered but not enough to venture out in the swells again,we did however see a Whale Shark swim along side the boat for a couple of minutes only inches below the water.Time has come to leave the Whale Sharks to do their own thing undisturbed buy us thrill seekers so we head back through the breakwater to calmer waters lunch and another chance to snorkel over a different patch of coral.Recovered enough to eat lunch we discuss the effectiveness of sea sick pills and decide ours were not strong enough.As we approach our last snorkeling spot the skipper come across a dugong just lazing around he stops

the boat and we are all given the opportunity to see a magnificent shy creature in their own habitat, coming to the surface for air she seems unaware we are all watching as she slowly glides away from our boat and out of sight. Felling ok now we decide to take our last chance to snorkel over this different reef, much larger than the first bommy with much more to see.Heading back to the boat ramp we both muse over a missed opportunity and the effectiveness of sea sickness pills.

Although disappointed at not being able to take full advantage of the whole days experience we are both glad we went and will always remember our experience of swimming with a Whale Shark.

So where to next? All roads are open so the town of Tom Price is our next destination with an overnight camp at a roadside rest area before heading into Karijini National Park.

Additional photos below

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