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Kalbarri
the Murchison River mouth where it meets the Indian Ocean Kalbarri
28
th April to 2
nd May
After leaving Lynton we pass through Port Gregory which although it has a lot of history as an early port, is basically just a sleepy fishing destination these days along the coast. We did see one Lobster fishing vessel here so maybe a bit of commercial fishing also still happens here. Further along we went past the turnoff to Hutt River Province, a 75 sq klm principality. With their own government, money and postage stamps, Hutt River exists as an independent sovereign state (albeit not in law?) and welcomes tourists ensuring a source of revenue. We were unable to make the detour this trip to see the Principality much to Trisha’s dismay.
Kalbarri lies at the mouth of the Murchison River, flanked by the Kalbarri National Park. In 1629 Captain Pelsaert of the Dutch East India Company marooned two crew members implicated in the Batavia shipwreck and mutiny/massacre. These were the first, albeit unwilling, white inhabitants of Australia. Just south of the town is a plaque that marks the spot where these two ‘early settlers’ were offloaded. Officially established in 1951, it is interesting to note that the area it has
Kalbarri
Fantastic frontage to the river been a popular destination for over 150 years. In the early days the Cornish miners working their leases in the upper reaches of the Murchison River were subject to periodic flooding from distant cyclonic rains. Once flooded, the mines could not be worked for several weeks whilst they dried out and the miners would head downstream to the river mouth (Kalbarri today) for well-earned R & R.
Today Kalbarri is a beautiful town popular with families and fishos and the base for anyone wanting to explore the nearby famous Murchison River Gorges in the Kalbarri National Park, and they are as good as we were told they were ! Kalbarri is well serviced with shops and essential services although being a ‘tourist destination’ a long way from anywhere, competitive pricing is not it’s strong point.
Kalbarri National Park has dramatic coastal cliffs along its western boundary with towering river gorges along the Murchison just to the east of the town. The sandstone throughout the area is called Tumblagooda Sandstone and the Murchison River has carved out spectacular gorges through this sedimentary rock. The colours within the sandstone create a striking feature of these gorges, reds, browns, purples and
white, in bands as the sea layered the sands millions of years ago. We spent a day walking the gorges doing Natures Window and the 8klm loop walk as well as the lookout at the Z Bend. The loop walk is well worth the effort, it is quite demanding as you ascend and descend rock faces. The route follows the cliff tops and then down to the river following the ledges and flood plain before rising again to the start at Nature’s window. The river redgums along the sandy flood plains provide a lush contrast to the Tumblagooda sandstone. Along the coast, the processes of erosion have fashioned amazing formations from the sea cliffs all easily accessible within short walks.
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ThePass
Australia 2008
Finlay's Seafood BBQ
If you are still in Kalbarri you should try this establishment for diner. Very unique and good food. We were there in Oct 2008 and really enjoyed it.