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Hi all… we are indeed still alive! 3G coverage a bit patchy in some locations (hint to Grant via Sharon) we have been, so this might be a bit longer blog than normal. Plenty has been experienced since leaving Geraldton and we will do our best to summarise the highlights…
From Geraldton we went to Kalbarri. We nearly did not go to Kalbarri, but really pleased we did. The most beautiful bit of coastal water, great fishing and all round great spot to spend a few days. After helping some nice folk out with a road side caravan failure for a couple of hours, we lobbed into Kalbarri to find a fantastic sea change spot. We are not the first with new housing estate well progressed and plenty of dollars evident as the town grows on the back of the “retirement” boom. Fished quite a bit for some good returns - mulloway (don’t get excited boys - not big enough to gloat about! - that comes later!), tailor, bream and Steph managed a nice whiting from a tinny we hired one day. Taking a boat out from the sheltered bay is not for the faint hearted, although we did see some locals having a go in a tinny and plenty of big cray boats wizzing through the gap. We stuck to the river estuary which was exciting enough! Highlights were the location, fishing, chill out time, as well as a Parrot bird sanctuary that was quite entertaining. You could stay here for a serious length of time! Rob and Shel heaven we suspect!
On to Shark Bay and Francois Peron National Park and of course notorious Monkey Mia. We stayed right on the beach at Denham here, which was just as well as the days are starting to get warmer as we head further North. A serious fishing charter was the first priority and we headed over to Monkey Mia to go out on Mac Attack for the day. We managed to see the dolphins feed amidst all the real tourists by default while we waited for the charter boat and were thankful we did not need to do that again. The charter was excellent with the weather in our favour. Snapper galore up to about 9-10kg. pink, black and various other shades kept coming over the side all day. Mike also managed a nice estuary cod, while Angus also scored well. Alas Steph got her pink snapper and then had a run of outs on this day, but given that we are still eating fish a good day was had by all. The national park was excellent. Lots of light to moderate 4WD tracks, camping opportunities for off road camper trailers and excellent beach fishing everywhere. Best catch was a 4kg lizard that Mike had several goes at before it finally swallowed the lure only a few feet off the beach…very exciting way to catch this fantastic eating fish (Tracey - we will send you a picture!). We have so much fish to eat that we let this one go, but not before it took it’s revenge on Mike’s thumb with a spike. On the way back from the NP we stopped at an old homestead that had a hot spring spa in the back paddock… Sun had just set, we had the place to ourselves, no champagne and a 12 YO…bugga! Seriously nice way to end the day and watch the early stars while restoring tired bodies. The locals did not advise too much swimming or snorkelling in this area - not call Shark Bay for nothing, with Tiger Sharks in large numbers! Truly a savage country!
Alas we had to move on, with our Whale Shark day approaching rapidly as well as need to get the vehicle serviced. We moved on to Carnarvon and heard about a spot 70kms further up the road called “The Blowholes” near Pt Quobba. This is our best camp so far and was very hard to leave. Right behind the sandhills metres from the beach, fantastic weather and a coral and fish sanctuary at our door step. Having experienced Ningaloo reef in the last few days, this spot still rates very highly for us. Walk in off the beach and start snorkelling over coral and amongst heaps of various coral fishes. Angus really got his snorkelling licence in this spot - we could hardly keep him out of the water. Brilliant!
Mike zipped in to Carnarvon to get the car serviced - a lazy 150km round trip. The distances are HUGE here and there really is very little in between stops. Roadhouses are usually the only signs of civilisation and very welcome sights.
Turned on the radio briefly to discover that our arrival in Exmouth for our Whale Shark dive coincided with the Whale Shark festival which they have been having here for a couple of years. Slightly panicked we rang ahead and made a booking in a caravan park, but when we got here there were plenty of places to stay. Stopped in to take a quick look at Coral Bay and exited stage left ASAP as it was jam packed with tourists and caravans! Very beautiful bay and a resorty feel to it. Later we met people who had stayed at Warroora Station nearby and camped on the beach. They had a fabulous time.
Arriving in Exmouth we settled into our caravan park out near the lighthouse almost at the top of the cape. This turned out to be a great location. Mike wandered across the road at dusk o try to catch a fish but no joy. We went into the Cape Range National Park and visited all the bays right down to Yardie Creek Gorge. Spent several hours at Turquoise Bay swimming and snorkelling. Spotted an echidna, wedgie eagles, a bush turkey (!) more live roos than you can shake a stick at and the odd monitor lizard! Big fish in the water!
Finally on Monday we got to go on our Whale Shark charter. Overnight the wind came up and we lay awake for a while worrying that the trip might be cancelled or it would be too horrible to dive. The Captain picked us up in a mini bus and with about 12 others we set off on our adventure. An international bunch we were! All the Whale boats leave from the same place so there were zodiacs ferrying people out to the moored boats just off shore. We cruised south along the reef and had our lecture about good snorkelling and whale shark viewing etiquette. After a practice snorkel on the reef and morning tea we sat back to wait for the call that a shark had been spotted. All the boats work together so we could see other groups in boats around us doing the same thing. Some youngsters were having a little nap when the radio came alive and we heard “Shark! Shark!". The boat took off at the speed of light out through a break in the reef, very exciting, HUGE waves!!! Out the other side the boats circled and began dropping us in the water. It was a bit like a squadron scramble. Our “spotter” jumped in and we followed in small groups. A leap of faith, into the deep water. Swim like hell, try to keep up with the spotter and then……watch as the giant fish came out of the blue directly in front - AWESOME. Mike helped Angus on the first jump and unfortunately there was a problem with Angus’s mask filling with water. So no sighting for them but Steph got a goooood look. We all got to see the second Shark and Mike and Steph got a very long look at the last one on our third go. In between there was the mad scramble to pick everyone up and get them back on board safely and plenty of sitting around and waiting - which is fine as it is pretty full on stuff.
This is something you just have to do if you get the chance. Very well managed by the crew/s of all the boats.
We hope to have a couple of more days here at Cape Range if we can get a camp site - first in, first served. If not we are heading off inland next.
Photos to follow!
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Tracey
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Wow!
Hey The whale shark charter sounds great! Photos please! How's the reading going Steph? Too much excitement? I pulled the pin on the investment property, the thought of 7 years delayed gratification when I can take holidays instead was all too much, particularly with so many unknowns ( off the plan, just bricks and suntanned workers on the site so far). ...I'm thinking Turkey by motorcycle or Angkor Wat..........stay out bush as long as you can, at least until Spiderman 111 finishes, trez tedious for adults although Evan loved it. Hi to Angus and Mike. Love Tracey and Hi from BikerDad and Evan the Wedgie.