Taking time to smell the roses

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Sandy Bay was no doubt a beautiful spot and the sunset over the Indian Ocean was as spectacular as any in Darwin or other places further north. However something about the campground did not work for Geoff and we headed off to Geraldton the next day. We did look in to another free camp on the way, but it did not look at all inviting. As we drove away along the highway we could see the tops of vans that would have been sitting virtually on the beach and perhaps we should have got out of the car and done a little exploration on foot. Nevertheless we headed into Geraldton to a caravan park that had been recommended by some ex-locals we met at Sandy Cape.



The little washing machine in the van has had a real work-out and we always seem to have accumulated about 4 or more loads of washing when we stop at a caravan park – not to mention needing to re-fill the water tanks! Washing is the first thing that must be done and until you have travelled and spent time in a caravan park you do not realise the importance of getting to the laundry (or getting your laundry done) early so that you can get adequate space on the line; oh, I swear, some of these women are in the laundry before the sun comes up! Well that done, what else to do in Geraldton on a Saturday?



We have been here twice before and have given thought to taking a trip to the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, but have shied away at the cost. This time G said that we had to do it as there was no point in getting so close again and waking away from it- well flying away would be more accurate. We booked for a day trip on Saturday and arose early to ensure that we got to the airport with ALL our gear – sunscreen, bathers, water, snorkel goggles and fins, beach towels warm clothes, hot weather clothes, kitchen sink… Check! Much to Margaret’s delight, the plane was her all time favourite Airvan just as we had used in our flight to the Bungle Bungles in 2008 when she swore she would never get in another small plane again – travelling business class will do that to you.



After a little bit of joggle over the land, the flight out over the sea to the group of islands was very smooth, but the pilot did need to swing this way and that to show us all the features on the islands. That got the better of one passenger, and you will all be pleased to know that Airvans still come equipped with little bags in the back of the seat in front. Marg was swallowing hard and quickly reached for a Cadbury’s Éclair, and let Geoff know that she was in no mood for taking pictures out her side of the plane. We landed safely on East Wallaby Island and trekked about 18 miles (well it seemed like that under the load of the kitchen sink et al) to a little shelter on the beach. Morning tea was taken and then it was off for a snorkel over the coral. Geoff found some encouragement to get a move-on once in the water when he realised there were little fish eating his toes. I have seen people having exfoliation by little fish, but these little bastards were serious! I am sure I have said it before, but for pristine white sandy beaches and access to wonderful coral, you cannot beat Western Australia, and after a short 100 mt swim we were amongst it, and the fish. A huge variety of shapes colours and sizes all gliding around within touching distance, although thankfully the little bitey ones were not amongst them.



In case you were wondering, the islands got their name from A Dutch commander – Houtman who found the islands by mistake in 1619. The word Abrolhos is derived from a Portuguese phrase meaning “keep your eyes open” or translated for those who do not speak Portuguese “watch the f*%#ing rocks!” No use speaking Portuguese to a Dutchman I suppose, and which would account for the number of ships that crashed on this coast in those days.



The photos should show the ‘fishing shacks’ on the islands, and although this is not the whole of the industry, the rock lobster fishery in the area produces 1.5 million kilos or 1500 tonnes a season. The Abrolhos are also the home of the black (and many other coloured) pearl.



After stocking up on food, filling the tanks with beautiful soft Geraldton water, getting the oil and filter changed in the truck and buying (another) chair – so we could both watch the TV without one breaking their neck in the process, we moved on to a free camp (Galena Bridge on the Murchison River) just north of the turn off to Kalbarri. Talk about busy, although it is a large area with space on both sides of the Murchison River it filled very rapidly after we pulled in at 1.00pm. A lesson to be learnt for other camps further north where it is going to be even busier. Having decided that we would spend 2 days at this camp, we then decided to drive (the car) back into Kalbarri for something to do… Not quite right as we did want to have a look at a ‘station stay’ just out of the town, but when we got to the gate and it said entry fees were applicable, we decided that we did not need to see it that much. Station stays are becoming quite a feature of the ‘free/low cost camping’ scene and something that we will be trying more of on this trip.



By now you might be deducing that we are doing things a little differently this time around. To that end our next stop was only 210 kms further north and we had two possibilities - Gladstone Scenic Look-out which was on top of an odd bare hill that popped up out of no-where. It looked incredibly exposed, not to mention very small and we moved on to Gladstone camp area. Six kms of dirt road… ho, ho, ho corrugations that were more like small hills and it nearly shook our fillings out – even at 10 km/hr! we did get to the end of the ‘track’ and after paying a guy who advised us that the Ranger was having a ‘nanny nap’ we found a site where we are only 20 mt from the sea – magic. It was even more special when the sun went down at 5.30 and the sky changed through so many different shades of yellow, gold, crimson and eventually dark blue. A photo opportunity every micro second. Geoff tried baking some bread from a pre-prepared packet mix in the gas BBQ and it actually turned out quite well. He needs to work on managing the temp in the BBQ, but apart from that it was a successful trial.



We were sent off to sleep with the sound of gentle waves caressing the shore. This morning we awoke to a full tide, many pelicans, sea gulls, finches and other birds the names of which the Ritchies are ignorant. After a leisurely breakfast Geoff went fishing and Marg finally pulled out the art things. After so long without doing any artwork she decided on sketching a tree in pencil first; then the scene in front of the caravan with said tree, a pier (on which Geoff was fishing), and a small boat which was stranded on a sandbank. Geoff actually pulled in six fish, all of which were too small to keep. We really enjoyed our two day stay there. Yesterday we left the campsite and drove to Carnarvon, famous for its bananas and other fresh produce. We have been here a day and a half and tomorrow leave for the bush again, inland this time. We are heading for the Kennedy Ranges and are not sure if we leave the van at the Gascoyne Junction and take day trips into the ranges or try to get the van in there. The first option I suspect. The weather has been beautiful, sunny and 27 degrees, eat your hearts out Melbournians. The locals would love rain as it is very dry, but we are enjoying it.



Sending this while we still have internet coverage.

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Photos

Abrolhos Islands - Mangrove group
The brown shading in the water is coral - it is better underwater!

Abrolohos Islands - Wallabi Group
Fishing shacks... so they say.

Margaret's favourite plane
Airvan made in Gippsland

Galena Bridge
The Murchison River

Galena Bridge
Camped beside the river

Gladstone Camping area
It's hard to wake up to this view, but someone has to do it.

Gladstone Camp
You can't get much closer to nature

Sunset over the Indian Ocean - again
Gladstone camp, and our pet pelicans.