Advertisement
Published: September 19th 2014
Edit Blog Post
Get the map out & follow us! (as Dad would say)
Finally, the morning of Friday 22
nd August 2014 we left the comforts of Broome and cruised up the highway to the Fitzroy River for the first night on a journey that had been a long time coming. Sunrise the next morning we were on the road and set for what would be the first time driving on the Gibb River Road. Later in the day we reached Windjana, how good is this we were thinking to ourselves. To celebrate night 2 we broke out the brand new gas cooker before realizing I had purchased a brand new, empty gas bottle. Who sells those things anyway? So, sandwiches it was.
We walked the 2km Tunnel Creek walking trail before making our way to Mt Hart Station for a couple of nights. The station allowed us to explore the local waterhole & creek, Mathew Gorge & Sunset Hill.
Bell Gorge was most definitely a highlight (excluding the heavily corrugated road in) and proved a difficult hike on a day we both agreed was the turning point in regards to the heat, not complaining of course. A high point at
this time was driving through, over and under the King Leopold Ranges, an iconic setting of the Kimberley. After 712kms Imitji Store became our first point along the road for fuel. “Cheapest on the Gibb!” ($2.36 per litre) the sign read. That afternoon we reached Mt Barnett Roadhouse, home to Manning Gorge. Calls were made, firewood was laid and the routine of setting up camp unfolded once again. Manning Gorge trail itself would be titled hardest trek of all but dampened by an inviting swim at the end.
Moving along to Mt Elizabeth Station, home of Wunnamurra Gorge. The 4wd track to the gorge was slow going and took a whole hour to drive the 10kms one way, we still had 2km to hike after that. It was all worth it when we arrived being the only persons for miles, Damien catching the first fish of the trip, a 'sooty grunter' and getting a look at some aboriginal rock art. ‘The best one so far’ was a phrase said all too regularly and often daily.
The Munja track – a remote 460km return journey to Walcott Inlet said to take 3 long days driving had been in our
minds in days leading up to departing. Damien kindly offered to do ‘paper scissors rock’ as to whether we would take it on or not. Another 4wd breaking its chassis in half in weeks previous had us deciding against. We’ll be back.
2 days later we were on the Mitchell Plateau. Point Warrender Road certainly lives up to its reputation of being the harshest road in the Kimberley. Supposedly, it had been graded just days prior! We set up on arrival and laid down for the all too regular afternoon nap. Soon after, a stranger riding a Polaris (assumed ranger) pulled up to ask if we were keen to watch the footy, “depends whose playing?” It was Freo v Port on a Saturday night. We rushed to grab our beers and camp chairs whilst trying to contain ourselves, who’d of thought we’d be watching tv out here. My cheering must have been quite impressive as we were asked to stay for fresh barramundi and chips. That night we met 2 beautiful, down to earth families who were most interested in our trip. Chuck, Jazz & baby Beau are the locals that live at the Mitchell Plateau Campgrounds. Paul, Ange
& kids, Corey & Macey Brown were friends of theirs who were visiting for a week or so.We had no idea the Browns would soon be our Gibb River Road family for the next 2 weeks. We thanked Chuck and Jazz for a wonderful evening and said our goodbyes as the next morning mission was to walk Mitchells Falls Trail.
1 easy to moderate hour of walking the 3.7km trail and we were standing at the top of the Mitchell Falls. Seeing and breathing the falls was such a surreal feeling and is something we will remember for a long time yet. We loved the 6 minute helicopter taxi back to camp with amazing views of the Mitchell River and across the Plateau, and yes it was titled ‘the best so far’.
We continued north to Walsh Point, another epic 4wd track but a beautiful bay with lots of fishy spots. It became home for 2 nights. We met other keen fishos and fished non-stop but only managed to land a lonely shark. The midges drove us out as we returned to King Edward River Camp.
We were excited to make it to Kalumburu where we stocked
up on basic supplies and had father foot the bill for a reverse charge call. We caught up with the Browns at McGowans Island – famous for its huge oysters and spent the next couple of days in fishing heaven. Paul had been up this way before and new of a spot nearby so we car pooled in the Hilux and set out exploring for the day. Promising signs were displayed in this picturesque area though nothing really caught although giant Milkfish could be observed from the elevated position of the gorge.
The campground at McGowans was amazing (more so due to we hadn’t had a shower in almost a week) and within stones throw of the ocean. We shared the campground with lots of the local pets including pigs, emus, chooks, ducks and dogs. Damien decided it would be hilarious to attract the emu with food beneath the roof top tent so that when I blindly climbed down the ladder I would almost fall off. After this episode Damien & I went collecting oysters off the rocks on the island in front of camp with a hammer and tent peg in hand. We returned with 20 odd huge
oysters in our bucket, so oysters kilpatrick it was for entre that night.
Time to hit the road again, next stop was Drysdale Station for a night with the Browns at the local bar and restaurant for dinner then onto Home Valley Station for 3 nights. Ange & I departed on a 2 hour horse riding trail while the boys and Macey tried yet again for a decent fish. We enjoyed the local country singer that night over at the rustic style homestead. Home Valley was where Damo would get his first job on the road.
Have you heard of Janies Waterhole? We hadn’t but now we do. Ask us about that day next time.
El Questro was a short drive up the road so we decided early with everything on offer we would stay at least 4 nights. Hired a boat for a day, 4wd tracks to numerous lookouts, dinner at the restaurant, Zeebadee Hot Springs, El Questro and Explosion Gorges were all great experiences. Did I mention that was the ‘best one so far’?
The 3.5km Emma Gorge Trail would be the last trek before making our way to civilization again. The swimming hole
at the end of this reasonably easy walk is beautiful and took my breath away. This was definitely ‘the best one so far’. It felt like the end of a journey with the bitumen under the tyres again though we know this is only the beginning.
Writing this, living it up in Kununurra
Jess n Damo x x
Advertisement
Tot: 0.18s; Tpl: 0.019s; cc: 9; qc: 52; dbt: 0.1284s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Phyllis McCracken
non-member comment
Looking good
Really enjoyed reading your Blog You are going well xx