A fair dinkum bonza spot!

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The Overland Track is located in the wilds of Cradle Mountain National Park, and is one of the most famous bushwalks in the world. The track is a tough ninety odd kilometre walk through pristine wilderness where walkers are constantly surrounded by the spectacular natural beauty of Tasmania, and the park is in the middle of an island state that is a world renowned travel destination. The beautifully maintained track features strategically positioned bush huts to warm the bones of intrepid walkers at the end of another long day in the Aussie bush. We embarked from the ferry out of Melbourne to start a family expedition to see the sights of wonderful Tassie, which lies south of the east coast of the Australian mainland. And walking the Overland Track was definitely at the top of our agenda while visiting the beautiful island.

We stayed overnight in Cradle Mountain lodge, dear reader, listening to the terrifying ruckus caused by the Tasmanian Devils, and were lucky to see some outside the lodge as they squabbled with the local Pademelons over food. Next morning there we were in the Tassie wilderness; four hardy brothers sporting full packs brimming with food, tents and other supplies to help us survive the rigours of the Australian bush. My brothers are far more experienced bushmen than me, and this bushwalk was my first attempt at a long trek through the wilderness with a full pack. It's essential that all walkers register their planned movements in the ranger's hut before commencing the walk, as there aren't any taxis out in the middle of the bush! The first day was not terribly gruelling in terms of kilometres travelled, but involved a lot of steep climbing on a very drizzly and rainy day. We successfully negotiated the track up to Marion's lookout, but unfortunately the views of Cradle Mountain were obscured by the clouds. That's life when you're out in the bush, but for what it's worth I can verify that postcards of the iconic Cradle Mountain on a clear day look spectacular. We walked along the ridge to our first camp amidst gale force winds on the superbly maintained track, before arriving safely at Windermere hut. We cooked up some chow and chatted with other walkers from around the world, and then all crashed out early in preparation for another big day in the bush.

We commenced day two after a warning from my brothers, this was going to be a long day. We were faced with a twenty kilometre march, and I have to say I was starting to do things pretty tough. I followed the lead of my more experienced brothers and changed into shorts to assist me in the march. A surprising part of bushwalking is that you never seem to feel cold in the legs, no matter how extreme the weather is. So shorts it was for the rest of the walk, but the biggest battle could not be so easily won regardless of my attire. The second inescapable burden when bushwalking is the weight of your pack, which plays a schizophrenic role in the bush as both your saviour and your damnation. Without the supplies of food, warm clothing, cooking utensils, tents etc you would perish in the bush, but at the same time the weight of the pack is an ongoing cross to bear. I ended day two in a funk of utter exhaustion, only concentrating on placing one foot in front of the other as I trudged through the bush behind my tough and dare I say slightly amused brothers. However, we arrived in Pelion Hut and pitched our tents because the hut had already been filled with other walkers. The rangers prefer you don't pitch tents unless the huts are full which helps minimize the human footprint of bushwalkers, and thereby maintains the natural environment in the National Park.

I slept like a log and was up early to help the boys prepare our brekkie, while gradually adjusting to the bush routine. When bushwalking in the wilds of Tassie meals are not just food, they are fuel! Without that fuel you can't keep going so it's vitally important to stock up three times a day, and we also had nuts and fruit to nibble on between meals. The highlight of day three was when we dropped packs and proceeded to charge up the winding sidetrack to the summit of Mount Ossa at 1617 metres. I kept up a very respectable pace, but was amazed to see one of my brothers way ahead in the distance and attacking the mountain almost at a run! He was totally obsessed, and was in impressive physical shape before taking on the walk. It was wonderful up on the summit of the mountain, and an incredible experience to be surrounded by fresh snow in the middle of an Australian summer. One of my brothers and I went for a celebratory slide down the snow on our backsides to celebrate reaching the summit, and after a short rest we all charged back down the mountain, collected our packs and pushed on at a more reasonable pace to our bush camp at Kia Ora.

There was a great social atmosphere building in the huts at the end of each day. As the walkers embarked on the walk the same day from our starting destination, we met the same group each night at the bush huts. Incredibly, it seems our fame was preceding us, because word had spread along the track about four brothers doing the walk together. Some of the Europeans were incredulous, one guy asked me in amazement how I could be taking a holiday with my brothers! I chuckled to myself and thought ... they are just blokes, and top blokes at that. How can that be a problem?! So next morning we rose early, chowed down, and marched on! Day four was another long but flat march to the end of Lake St Clair, and we visited Du Cane Hut which was the base of Paddy Hartnett, a legendary Aussie bush trapper and pioneer. The four brothers; hard Aussie bushmen to the core, proudly posed for a photo opportunity outside the hut. We also visited the beautiful Hartnett falls before camping for the night with the other walkers at Narcissus Hut.

I was feeling great, up and about early on the final day feeling energised and slightly amazed that I could keep pace with my brothers, who realistically were in a different league to me when it comes to bushwalking. My leg speed and strength were fine, and I wasn't dragging the chain regarding my walking pace, but the pack was the big issue for me. Whenever we had a break I dropped my pack like a hot potato, whereas my brothers nonchalantly lounged around resting with their packs still on ... Unbelievable! Day five was a beautiful long walk along the shores of Lake St Clair to our final destination at the visitors centre, and we marched a further seventeen kilometres amidst typically spectacular bush scenery. Then to top things off the weather started to improve rapidly as we marched into lower altitudes. We arrived at the visitors centre to be greeted enthusiastically by our eldest brother, waiting patiently for us with his wife and two kids. The little guys were too young to take on the walk, but a special thanks to my brother for providing me with all his gear, and he seemed as thrilled as I was to have made it through the walk. We celebrated with a restaurant meal at the centre where I enjoyed the best pepper steak of my life!

Walking the Overland Track has been a magical travel experience shared with my brothers, as we enjoyed mind bogglingly beautiful scenery together on one of the most famous bushwalks in the world. It's a gruelling walk without a doubt, and a reasonable level of fitness is a prerequisite for taking on the challenge. The track is superbly maintained by the rangers, the huts are excellent, and the walkers we met shared an enduring love and respect for the wilderness. We all adhered to the rangers motto in the bush that if you carry it in, you carry it out! Come to Tasmania to experience the sheer beauty of walking the Overland Track in Cradle Mountain National Park where, basically all of you should be here now!

One's destination is never a place but rather a new way of looking at things." Henry Miller

As I continue my travels, until next time it's signing off for now

Tom

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Photos

The Rooney brothers, Du Cane hut
Hard Aussie bushmen ... or interloping cityslickers? You be the judge.

New Pelion camp
The boys preparing for our evening meal, and doing necessary bush repairs.

Bowling Green Two
Taking a break with my brother. I'm absolutely shattered, but the hard man still has his pack on! Is he human?!

New Pelion camp
The boys mucking in again. They are all champions!

Pelion Hut
Exhausted walkers relaxing in a packed hut at the end of another exhilarating day on the Overland Track.

Summit of Mount Ossa
With snow on the ground in mid January.