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Published: April 4th 2013
Tasmanian Devils and other animals
Driving down to Port Arthur you go through the small town of Dunalley, just before crossing a narrow isthmus and heading further down the Tasman Peninsula. It was only as we got to the small township that I remembered that this area was in the direct path of some fearsome bushfires earlier this year. We couldn't believe our eyes when we saw the devastation left from the fires, which destroyed the town. There were around 80 homes lost, leaving just lonely brick chimneys, or sometimes a washing line standing in an empty field. The fire reached all the way to the water. It seemed in-congruent, the charred trees overlooking the sea. I remembered seeing photos in the newspaper of families in the water, surrounded by billowing clouds of smoke and flames. It must have been terrifying. Tasmania has beautiful natural wonders, but nature doesn't always go its way.
I'm not sure what side of the nature ledger you'd put Tasmanian Devils. While on the one hand it's a rare, endangered marsupial which only lives in Tasmania, on the other it's a smelly and rather stupid creature. At first appearance these weird creatures seem quite
cute. However after watching them during feeding time I ended up feeling completely repulsed.
Devils are not smart enough to be useful predators, so in their natural state they are predominantly scavengers, and eat absolutely everything they find - meat, fur, bone, brains - the whole gory mess. They are also cannibalistic, so an unlucky weak or injured Tasmanian Devil, don't count on any mates for help. Then again, they're solitary creatures, so don't have a lot of mates to call upon.
This isn't why they are endangered however, it's because they are being attacked by a weird disease which is part virus, part cancer, and none of the experts haven't figured out how to cure the disease as yet. It is highly contagious, passed through saliva, which usually happens when they are eating. Not because they are generously sharing the food mind, but because they are fighting viciously over whatever they've managed to scavenge.
Despite the fact that they are being ravaged by a weird incurable disease and they are now on the endangered list, it was pretty hard to muster up any sympathy for them.
You might wonder why I was up close and
personal with a Tasmanian Devil. Well, around the corner from our Port Arthur B&B was a Tasmanian Devil Conservation Park. I was keen to visit, when in Rome and all that, although I could tell Mum wasn't. However I knew that she'd found a brochure of Tasmania's gardens and has her sights set on us visiting some gardens up north, so I have traded one garden for a visit to the Conservation Park.
On the plus side, the park also has kangaroos, wallabies, quolls, and native birds. To my delight, we arrived just in time to feed the kangaroos and wallabies, which gave us the opportunity to hand-feed them. My inner tourist was thrilled.
We must've timed it perfectly, because then followed the "King of the Wild" show, which was native birds doing tricks. There was a galah and a corella and a tawny frogmouth, which sounds like the start of a joke! So a very Aussie start to the day.
Wineglass Bay
One of the most famous images of Tasmania is the stunning Wineglass Bay. Right at the top of my list of things to do in Tasmania was to see this for myself,
so the morning of our trip into Freycinet, I was up bright and early in eager anticipation!
Located in the beautiful Freycinet Peninsula, I had always believed that the name of this bay was for its distinctive shape, which with its perfect semi-circle looks much like a wineglass. I have since learned however that the real reason is infinitely less romantic. Many years ago there was a whaling station located there, and having harpooned them, the whalers towed the whales to shore in order to boil down the blubber. For years the water in the bay was a brilliant red due to the blood of the whales. The whalers noted it was the colour of claret and therefore this is the real source of the name "Wineglass Bay".
Like the early settlers, whalers and fishermen, our first glimpse was by boat. However our mission was far more peaceful, on a cruise around the Freycinet Peninsula with the sole aim of marvelling at the beauty. Established in 1916, it is Tasmania's oldest national park. It didn't disappoint, it is absolutely stunning.
Along with the usual batch of tourists, our Skipper and First Mate, we were accompanied by Rastus,
a friendly 12 year-old sea dog, who spotted dolphins and seals as we made our way around the coastline. We arrived at the most famous of bays, enjoyed some sparkling wine, fresh oysters, cheese and crackers, and admired the incredible bright and clear blue waters and sugar-white sand.
Our first glimpse of Wineglass Bay may have been the easy way on a boat, but later that afternoon we drove further into the park, and walked up to the lookout. The views over Wineglass Bay at the top of the lookout are breathtaking, which had nothing to do with the 30 minute hike to the top. The path takes you up a steep hill, with more than 300 steps, many made from the naturally occurring pretty pink granite, through the Australian bush, surrounded by massive boulders, and accompanied by birds singing all the way. It was as idyllic as it sounds.
Bay of Fires and the East Coast
After an overnight stay at yet another historic house, this time in the pretty little town of Swansea, we meandered our way further up the eastern side of the island, reaching Bicheno in time for morning tea. Bicheno boasts
of being "Tasmania's Tidiest Town, 2003" as you drive in, in true understated Tassie style. After a quick wander through the town, we soon discovered that it is also famous for its penguins, so we went off to find some.
First stop was the "Blowhole", which was not blowing much due to the tide and lovely calm day. No penguins there, so we went to the nearby Redbills beach. We then discovered that the best time to spot penguins is at night-time, and during the day-time they are out doing whatever it is that penguins do to amuse themselves in the daylight hours. Not a wasted visit though, as it's a very pretty little beach, and I can imagine that it's a popular spot in the summertime.
We kept winding our way up the east coast. It's a gorgeous coast line, which meant conversation in our car for the afternoon never really progressed beyond this:
"Look at the water - it's so blue - incredible!"
"That sand, it's like powder. And so white!"
"Those orange rocks look amazing against the blue water."
"Isn't it pretty!"
"Keep your eyes on the road!"
Finally
we reached the Bay of Fires. It has been voted by Conde Nast as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, but in actuality it isn't one beach, but is a collection of little bays stretching around 30 kms. But who can argue, as it was stunningly beautiful. We drove as far as the road would take us, pulling into a couple of little bays to walk on the beach, and look in awe at the amazing scenery.
It's like a giant cliche - the water is a crystal clear bright turquoise, the sand is powder fine, and sugar-white. We have the bays almost exclusively to ourselves, and we are surrounded by forests not high-rises, or even any beach houses for the most part. Ringing the beaches are giant granite rocks and boulders stained with a bright orange lichen, while above it all is a brilliant blue sky and not a breath of wind. Pretty much perfect.
Yep, we've seen the natural wonders of Tasmania and we are hooked. All the hype is well deserved - Tassie, you're a stunner.
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RENanDREW
Ren & Andrew
The gorgeousness...
This blog made me realise that it's been far too long since our last visit to the east coast. Oh, and on our drive home from richmond, it occured to us that we probably should have reminded you about the january fires... safe travels x