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Foled hills enroute to Leigh Creek
Standing on the old Ghan railway for this shot of some typical hill formations in the areaWhat is another 260 kms (each way) when you are so far from anywhere anyway? That was the logic we applied to our decision to go out to Arkaroola; well really we were only thinking of the 130 kms of dirt road - bitumen road doesn’t really count when deciding these things. Being at Wilpena and so close to Arkaroola, relatively speaking, it seemed a good decision at the time. We looked at the options and after a quick blast up the (bitumen) road to a ‘town’ called Blinman and a little test of 2 different dirt roads without the caravan, the decision was made to backtrack to Hawker and leave the van at a caravan park (at a very reasonable rate). We then took the blacktop to Leigh Creek and 140 kms of dirt road to Arkaroola on Sunday 2nd May.
We had the truck set up for camping with an airbed in the back and sleeping bags to sleep in. A small dome tent attaches to the rear of the canopy and it was just like home (with a little imagination!). We elected to cook at the camp kitchen BBQ, only to realise that we did not have
BT50 with tent
Our abode whilst at Arkaroola BBQ equipment or matches to light the BBQ. The next morning we had to borrow matches to boil the billy, and now have a pack in the glove box for future use. If you look on the bright side, something good will always come out of these little trials and sure enough another couple (of couples) came up after I had found the lights and intended to cook there as well. The BBQ supposedly operated by a coin in the slot arrangement, but that was really not the case as it was possible to just turn the gas on and light it. I found that out after feeding my $1 into it. One of the other guys took a real good look into the bowels of this BBQ only to find that the money was falling directly onto the ground! He retrieved $4, I took mine back and we were all happy with the free gas! We bought the lilo new from Anaconda just before we left and Marg blew it up at home to check it was okay. However, during the very cold freezing night the lilo went down and we had to get out of bed and stand
Waterhole at Arkaroola
One of the lovely spots at Arkaroola Station shivering while it was pumped up again. The same thing happened the next night (twice). We were about to throw it out and buy another one when we discovered a little blue cap that went over the pump part. What a bummer. We taped a black garbage bag over one of the truck side windows and a windscreen cover over the other and that kept the sun out for a while in the morning.
On Monday, we did a bit of exploring around the resort, following the map and advice from the resort reception. The first track was quite scenic and there were some beautiful spots to see. After walking through the absolutely fascinating ruins of an old copper smelter, we stopped for lunch (which Margaret had prepared earlier) at a water hole called Boolaboolaga which was very secluded and peaceful - and no flies! Marg was not too enamoured with the 4WD aspect, but nonetheless enjoyed the scenery. We returned to the resort to take another track to Arkaroola water hole - quite manageable for our vehicle we were told. When we did find the correct turn-off, it tuned out to be the most bone jarring, tight and
For Sale - Copper Smelter
barely used and a great opportunity for the entrepreneur. twisting track into and out of the creek bed and with no apparent way to turn around. When Marg’s eyes open wide, her teeth clench and she says “go back”, it is quite amazing what the BT50 can do! OK we failed on that one, but we eventually got home which was more that one of our neighbours did. He went up a 4 wheel drive track only to discover that the gate at the end of the very long drive was locked and he was faced with the decision to drive back the way he had come (long bone jarring trip) or send his wife back with another couple of men to ask the reception people to send someone out with a key to open the gate. This could be done via a not so bad road. He eventually arrived home after dark and a little chastened. That night we decided to treat ourselves and have dinner in their restaurant. The meal was absolutely huge and neither of us could finish it. Our view of Arkaroola: clearly a resort that was once great, but is now in need of some major investment and for us, it was a very
Nymph at aArkaroola
What luck to happen upon this fair maiden long journey for little reward. In comparison to Wilpena Pound, there is no comparison.
On Tuesday we headed out via Blinman - well the road could not be any worse than the one to Leigh Creek, and back to pick up the van. It took an hour to repack the van and car, but we were soon headed for Port Augusta.
When we got phone reception again we had messages from Kim to say that poor old Tinsel hadn’t improved since her visit to the vet and they had to have her put down. And a message from Jocie saying that Geoff’s mum was in Epworth Hospital. We waited in Port Augusta until the end of the week when the surgeon was to have another go and for the news that Peg was okay which we received late in the evening on Friday. During our stay in Port Augusta we went to their information centre which had some wonderful displays and films. We were there for four hours and half way through felt in need of sustenance and Geoff needed to warm up (it was very cold in the theatres), so we had lunch there.
BT50 up the creek
Not a paddle in sight... Navigator had elected to go by foot at this point! Another day we went for a drive to Hancock’s lookout where you can see all over Spencer Gulf and many small towns along it. After that we drove to Mr Remarkable NP and the Alligator Gorge. We took two of the smaller walks to lookouts, but when we saw two young fit backpackers struggling back up the steps from the gorge puffing and panting we decided to give that miss. We also visited the Arid Gardens and the Matthew Flinders lookout. Yes, he went to Port Augusta too. The arid gardens looked for all the world like the scrub and trees and grasses that we had been seeing from the car and campsites for the previous two weeks…. how strange.
While at PA we took the opportunity to wash the caravan with a bucket and the car with a high pressure hose to get rid of the locusts again. The front of the car still has patches of green/yellow paste where the hose did not get all the muck off. Fortunately we now seem to have left the little buggers behind and now only have dust to content with which will be with us for quite a while yet.
Looking west from Hancocks lookout
Just South of Pt. Augusta near Wilmington was this awesome veiw back across Spencer Gulf. Pt. Augusta was just out of shot to the right. We are wondering whether the locusts have reached Melbourne yet.
We left Port Augusta on Saturday morning and didn’t know whether we would reach Coober Pedy in one hop or have to pull up short of it. In the end we stopped about 50km short and pulled into a layover. For a while we thought we would be the only ones there, but a campervan pulled up. We were awake for the sunrise this morning and it was quite lovely, made the inside of the van quite pink/orange. We are now at Coober Pedy. Being a Sunday many things (and there are not a lot of them in the first place) are closed. Geoff has gone on a mine tour, museum and underground house trip, but I couldn’t be bothered. Tomorrow we move onto somewhere near the NT border and the next night we should be at Uluru from where we will send the next instalment to those who have not already put our blog in the spam folder.
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Eug
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Amazing views
What and amazing country - how on earth do you know where to go ?? Do you just point and go !!! Safe travels .... eug