Tablelands to Artemis

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The travel time to Chambers was only about 30 minutes- fantastic- and we arrived to this amazing retreat amidst the rainforest. We were really excited to come here, as it was said to be a Mecca for some amazing birds and especially mammals. It was fabulous. Similar to OReillys rainforest retreats, the lodges were set above ground so you are at mid-canopy height, making it perfect for the birds to visit the balcony in the morning. Apart from the fabulous rooms, it had a semi-heated pool undercover but open to view the forest whilst enjoying a swim, a guest lounge with a billiard table (where we could hone our very limited skills!) ,and best of all, it had a viewing platform where each night striped possums and sugar gliders would come to lap up the juicy honey placed on the trees. After getting settled into our cabin and ensuring that the campo was as water-tight as possible, we went off exploring before heading out with Ross and Jan (our wonderful SA friends) to Mothers Day dinner. We went to a fabulous Swiss/Italian restaurant in Yungaburra for pizza/pasta. We had frequented this establishment 9 years ago and it again did not disappoint- so it was a lovely way to top off a fantastic day. But that wasnt the finish of it! We came back to our lodges and went to the viewing platform to see if we could spot any wildlife. We sat quietly and waited patiently and then were rewarded with gorgeous little sugar gliders scampering down the tree to lap up the honey drenched trees. Then we were treated with glimpses of the striped possum- such a striking animal, substantially larger than the gliders and comprising of fluffy black and white striped fur- very specky!! Whilst at the viewing we met a Canadian family, with two boys a little younger than Merlin, and who were on the last few days of their Australian trip. The father was an extremely keen birder and had been wanting to come to Australia for many years. They had spent 2 months here and upon inquiring as to their opinon of Aus and if it met their expectations, they described their joy at seeing our wildlife, bush and that they just loved it here- which was great to hear. We chatted for quite some time with them, swapping bird stories and asking about their home in Canada and over the course of the next few days, enjoyed their company and discussions at the viewing platform.

Now as many of you know, the plan for the trip was to reach Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP on the Cape. The unseasonal and voluminous amounts of rain were likely to potentially scuttle this plan but we hadnt given up hope just yet. However, at present the river levels on the Cape were so high that the roads we would be taking, were impassible. We were keeping an eye on the road conditions and closures as well as weather radars and the latest info advised that in the short term, the worst day for rain would be Wed- it was lucky we secured shelter for that day.

Mon 9th morning we spent the first few hours entertaining some spectacular birds on our balcony as they had quite a penchant for very tiny pieces of banana, grape and apple. I think the best part about this was that they were so close and obviously feeling safe enough in our presence to stay and pick at the food. After this session, i went for a walk to Lake Eacham and around its perimeter. Lake Eacham is a Maar, which is essentially a volcanic crater formed by massive explosions frim the super heating of groundwater, which then filled the crater forming the lake. Even the local aboriginal people, the Ngadjon, share their stories which speak of the creation of the lake- 'it was a dry forest and one day the young men left at camp did a bad thing, spearing a flame tree. After that there was a huge rumble, the ground was shaking and all the animals statted running. There was nothing left, only water where the huts used to be'. This was around 10000 years ago.  Being on the tablelands here and part of the wet tropics, we are at approx. 1000m altitude and comprised of mainly rainforest habitat which was wonderful to experience on the walk. Merlin and Chris went for a run, along a similar course and then we all had a bit of fun in the pool- it was fantastic to be in the pool whilst looking out at the constant rain. After this, doing some jobs, playing billiards and dinner, we headed down to the viewing platform. Again we were spoilt with wildlife and this time, it was the striped possum who took centre stage visting both of the trees and darting across from one to the other, enjoying his rich sugary fill.
Tue morning 10th was groundhog day with birds coming into the balcony. However we were so spoilt with the male and female riflebirds coming to visit and becoming so accustomed to us that they not only ventured onto our outside table but also decided to come in the cabin and explore. Even more amazing was to spot the Musky Rat Kangaroo fossicking on the forest floor. This species is the smallest macropod in the world. Picture a rotund little critter with tan to dark brown fur, a very long straight tail and tiny forearms and head- very cute!! Chris was in his element setting up perches for his photography with Merlin assisting. So much so that they both came back with tics that needed to be carefully removed by Dr Julie so that the whole body of the little parasite is extracted so as not to leave any elements within that could release toxins. Up here, although there arent the sand flies, the parastiic life inclides leeches, tics and of course ( lucky us due only to the late rains) the mosquitoes. By the time our stay had ended, we had all experienced lots of leech encounters and to be honest, they were better than the tics- at least they just have a feed and then drop off by themselves and arent burrowers!! Whilst enjoying the animals, the rain just kept coming so for the next 2 days, although we went to the Cathedral Fig Tree (largest and oldest fig tree in Australia) and to Lake Barrine it was difficult to explore the walks or even try any photography. After time spent in the forest a swim was in order at Lake Eacham and the water was lovely. Chris and Merlin did a few laps clocking up about 2km before we headed back. Shopping, voting and other jobs were completed and then we had one last night at the viewing platform - again it was a different  experience. This time we were entertained by the striped possum and then a sugar glider came down on the same tree and wanted to get in on the honey action. At first he was very furtive and jumping snd scampering away as soon as the striped possum even looked at him. It was hilarious seeing him dart about with short sharp staccato movements as though he was supercharged. However,  probably a combination of enjoying the tucker and becoming bolder, he stood his ground and even advanced to get in closer to the food and ultimately, his dining mate.
Thur 12th we awoke to clouds, no rain and a tiny sliver of sunshine. As the weather was now due to be dry for the next few days, we were heading north up to Julatten to camp on a property alongside our friends. As we booked in a boat cruise on the Daintree for the afternoon, the aim was to drop off the campo where we were staying and then make our way the further hour or so up the road towards Cape Tribulation. As would be the case, a number of unplanned roadworks were encountered on the way including one where the roadworks crew just said, 'ok guys you'll be waiting here for 15 minutes while we work on the bridge'- youve gotto love QLD!!.Anyway, as a result we were now on a misson to get to the boat in time and so headed straight there without stopping.

We met Murray and headed out on the 9 seater boat on the Daintree river and Barrett creek. So this is big croc territory and therefore a reminder was in order for Merlin to keep everythiing inside the boat- arms, cameras, whole bodies etc.. Our main aim was to try and see the Little kingfisher. This is the smallest of the kingfisher family and is a gorgeous blue and white with a beak that is as long as possibly the height of the whole bird!! We set off to some spots where Murray has seen them before and we were in luck getting glimpses of this beautiful specimen- although it was on the move and therefore not keen to settle for a photo. We saw several Azure Kingfishers and to our great delight, an Amethystine Python (Simalia kinghorni) the largest snake in Australia, was curled up on an overhanging frond. This species can grow to 8m and has dark brown, tan, purple and white markings. Although Jan was quite happy to view from a distance, we were keen to get closer views. Murray nuzzled the boat in and with my assistance holding the frond down slightly (and not letting go!),  we were able to get eye to eye with it, and Merlin and Chris (whilst standing precariously) were able to snap away. It was a great experience. From here we ventured further along the river and it dawned on me how much i absolutely love being out on a boat on a river or lake, mainly just putting around but even feeling the wind on my face when we give the engine some grunt. Its much more enjoyable for me than being out on the open sea with major movement shifts. After a brilliant boat trip and a much needed cold drink, we headed for camp. We arrived at our spot, set up and cooked dinner, and all the while there was no rain in sight- maybe the wet had finally ended. Dont get me wrong, although we have had heaps of rain and its been a challenge and changed the dynamic of the trip, parts of the country definitely need the wet so i am not complaining.

Fri 13th we awoke to a light mist of rain and i thought the weather may have followed us but the dry and sunshine came through soon after. We spent the day, and the next few, with a focus to find the blue-faced parrot finch. This is a dazzling bright green finch with a royal blue face and red rump and is extremely range restricted to just this tropical elevated location in northeast of Australia.
Unfortunately for us the time of year we were here was in the crossover between their preferred highland and creekline habitats and therefore a lot of land to cover. We started at the popular Mt Lewis, as Chris and I had seen them here years before, its a great drive and there would possibly be other species to observe. Again we were in tropical rainforest, interspersed with some open grassy clearings. Our days were spent seeing some amazing species such as the very cryptic Fernwren, Bridled Honeyeater,  and Mcleays Honeyeater but alas, no parrot finch. There would be a run or two and one day Chris and Merlin decided to ride to and up Mt Lewis on their mountain bikes. This is no mean feat. Not only is it a 34km round trip (in 30 degree temps) but it is a 12km continuous ride up hill to the top, and to top that off, the last part of the ride, where we were camping, had a very steep driveway, with an inclination angle of 30 degrees in one section!! Yes you guesed it- I didnt join them for this challenge and I'm sure you also guessed that they both loved it. Most nights we went out owling, specifically trying to locate and photograph the Lesser Sooty Owl. Althouh we heard them calling and one came in very close to us, the photography was a challenge so it was another one we would have to 'come back for'.
Where we stayed was camping alongside our friends who were in a beautiful little airbnb cabin style accommodation. The property was on about 6 acres of elevated grounds and home to some spectacular birds.One in particular, which is definitely, as its name suggests, is the Lovely Fairywren. Wow, what an amazing Fairywren, the northern relation of our Variegated Fairywrens from back home, and one in which the female is very striking, with her beautiful blue head, colour extending down her back to cover her whole tail, and with a soft creamy underside. The other very special experience was with the resident Red-legged pademelon who was essentially a member of the family here. We were able to meet him up at the house and Merlin was lucky enough that he felt comfortable for him to give his soft fur a pat while feeding him just a little bit of oats. This was a very relaxing setting apart from the voracious mosquitoes who were in their droves!!

The next morning, Mon 16th we headed off further north as we had clarification that the roads were open and clear all the way through to Artemis station where we were in search of the Golden-Shouldered Parrot. This was perhaps now going to be the furthest/most northern point on our trip as the road to Portland house and Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range NP) was still closed due to the flooding causing the Wenlock, and Pascoe rivers being up (it rose 4m in a day). We travelled north and noticed the landscape changing as we were now amongst tropical savannah woodland. The temperatures were higher and the magnificent and unmistakable structures extruding from the ground in the form of magnetic termite mounds, were regular sightings. Roads were the signature colourings of up north- a combinaton of ochre and tuscan dirt with many dips and small water crossings, lined either side by beautiful woodland - Corymbia, Eucalypts and one of my favourites - an orange flowering Grevillea. We arrived at the station late in the day and setup camp. We had just enough light left in the day for Chris to head down to the feeding table to get the lay of the land and perhaps glimpse these gorgeous parrots.

Golden-shouldered Parrots are most closely related to other parrot species such as the Hooded parrots (top end) and Paradise parrots (extinct). They have a long tail, brilliant teal/turquoise on the face and down the front, with red lower belly, black on the cap and wings, with vibrant yellow patches on shoulders into the wings. We had been lucky enough to see these fabulous birds on our previous trip but since then, they have declined dramatically due to changes in the landscape and predation. Sue & Tom's property is one of the last strongholds of this species and they are working with ecologists to get a handle on their numbers,  and take actions to reduce/remove the impacts causing their plummeting numbers.

It was clear when we arrived that it was really busy- last time we were here, i think we were pretty much the only ones here. However, a combination of their decline in the wild, along with it being breeding season, meant there was an influx of birders and specifically bird photographers, here on site. As you can imagine, this was a bit of a shock to our senses, and from a practical perspective would make it extremely challenging for photography when there are 6 or 7 photographers all having to accommodate one another to get the shots they were after. Chris' patience would be tested!! Although, we were soon lucky to learn that Chris knew one of the photographers and his friend so it would hopefully mean they could accommodate each other nicely. Also, excitingly for us, even as it also added another dimension, we found out that the BBC were here filming- very cool, even though sadly, big Sir Dave A wouldnt be making an appearance!!

On our first morning we got up in the dark and went out to a nest. Although excited, we were nervous to find out if we would be on our own. We got to the site and were in luck, set up and waited patiently.  Not long after our arrival we heard the birds fly in and were rewarded with a pair come to settle briefly on top of the mound. As you can imagine all you could hear were the unmistakable clicks of the camera shutters firing at a thousand miles a minute, and our gasps at seeing these rare birds. This was such a special occasion for the three of us to experience this moment together, as we had done 9 years ago but also as this marked Merlin's 300th new bird for the year! The male didnt present the striking bold colours the bird is known for as he was only young, perhps a year into his life. Regardless, to see the pair, with obvious chicks in the mound was fabulous. Golden-shouldered parrots are antbed parrots, meaning they use termite mounds for their nest hollows. They select a mound, create an opening and cavity and then the termites very cleverly seal off the chamber so they can both live independently. It is then the perfect home to lay and then incubate the eggs. In addition, a symbiotic relationship occurs with a particular species of moth (Trisyntopa scatophaga) and the young. The moth flies in the mound and lays its eggs. The larvae then feeds off the hatchlings poo enabling them to grow and keeping it clean for the growing young birds.

Over the course of the next dew days, our days were spent burning the candle at both ends. We would usually rise about 5.30 to head out to one of the sites either nests or feed table, to have a session with these amazing birds, in the hope that we get shots of a brightly coloured male perched. In the heat of the day we would do jobs and go for a run and then spend the good afternoon/evening light in search again, or in search of other northern species. We would come back for dinner and then head out on these warm nights in search of owls, nightjars and reptiles. It was fabulous. We came across some snakes- the brown tree snake and the orange naped snake and also had brilliant views of the spotted nightjar, so of course, photos were in order.

On our travels throughout the day, we often came across the magnificent Yellow Spotted Monitor. This is a relative of what we would call the Lace monitor, back home. It is a large and comanding creature with powerful legs, creamy yellow markings over its body and the same yellow up its long neck and an iridescent purple forked tongue. We happend upon many different individuals and they were very approachable and accommodating to the papparazzi. Lots of other new birds were encountered such as Banded Honeyeaters, Red- browed pardalotes, Squatter Pigeons, the gorgeous Masked Finch and we even were so lucky to spy a Red Goshawk.

Initially, chatting with the other photographers we found ourselves at the same locations but worked well together to get some shots. It was fun discussing who would go where and then coming back to share info on sigtings etc. It was great to see Merlin's self confidence and ease amongst these adults shine as there were several times when Merlin was up at feed table (on his own) alongside a number of photographers, many experts in their fields, and he was conversing about certain bird species, or photographic settings or other wildlife we have seen. They were so inclusive and keen to discuss, teach and encourage his interests. We were also so privileged to be onsite for Sue's milestone birthday. This meant family were there and other kids!! The family opened their doors to us all to come and join in the afternoon celebrations- it was lovely. Merlin met the kids via the best introduction possible. One of the boys came over and casually said 'oh the snake is still out the back'. Merlin excitedly said, 'snake? where?' The boy straight away asked if he wanted to see it and of course with a yes,  they were off!! After this there were plenty of games had and then they were heading off to the dams for a swim and invited Merlin along. It was a terrific afternoon.

Probably the highlight though was getting to know the BBC crew. In the first few days, we got chatting with the director and the amazing cinematographers and it was fascinating to learn what they were endeavouring to capture. Over the course of the week we were able to share a lot of intel re our search efforts and what we were finding, get to know them much more and even work in with them- such a great bunch of ( very talented) guys and a most memorable experience for us all. Merlin built a terrific rapport with them and there was many a laugh had as we chatted animals and locations they have filmed and our experiences on the road- lots of fun.

According to our schedule, we were to only have 3 days here, have a stop further north for 2 nights and then head across to Iron Range for a week. Initially we couldnt leave as planned as we needed more time to get cracking shots. We also knew that although it had been dry, the rivers were still up and the road out there was closed. Apart from a safety aspect, driving on closed roads up here, automatically voids your insurance (in the event any issues are encountered) and we didn't want to entertain that idea, so it seemed like a no-brainer to stay on for an exrra night or two?.... or four???

We had replanned our journey home and had to allow a few more nights for road clsoures and we also wanted to have a few more nights in the tablelands. Given this we really needed to head south, but it was very difficult to extract ourselves from this place. The camping was fabulous (reminiscent of our previous trips), the weather warm and dry so very attractive for us, and the people so fantastic, not to mention the wildlife. Chris still had unfinished business with some other birds so another few extra nights were in order. However the day finally came that we had to head south. Apart from the obvious sadness that we were now on the return journey, our hearts were heavy to say goodbye to the parrots and the hope they would be able to hang on. We left energised, Merlin now had another passion in cinematography (& another career option brewing!), had built some wonderful relationships and vowed to be back sooner rather than later so we can enjoy Sue and Tom's hospitality again.
We now head to the Tablelands so stay tuned for the next instalment. Hope eveyone is safe and well xx

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