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Published: September 8th 2011
Tuesday 30th – we had to get going fairly promptly this morning as we were catching a train! We were going up the mountain to Kuranda, a journey of some 15 kms – not far in railway terms but it involved a steep mountain climb. We had booked our trip yesterday at the caravan park so firstly we had to drive to the Skyrail terminus which was only about 5 kms away from the caravan park. We were quite early so, along with plenty of other early birds, we had to wait a while before the coach arrived to take us to Freshwater Railway Station. Everything worked like clockwork and by 9:30 we were sat on the platform waiting for the train. Before that we had time to look in the gift shop and wander around the museum. The story of the building of the railway was fascinating - it was a magnificent feat of engineering designed to “open up” access to the Tablelands – an area which, even in the early days, was seen as a future haven for farming. Started in 1886, at one time over 1500 people were employed on the project. Because of the magnitude and dangers
involved, many tragedies occurred before the line was completed in 1893.
Promptly at 9.45 we could hear tooting in the distance and before long the train came into view and pulled up with our allocated carriage right close to us. We already knew that we would be in carriage number 2 - which was just back from the engine – but we were lucky enough to get two forward facing seats and one of those was next to the window. Half of the seats faced backwards which didn’t suit everyone and there were more ‘moans’ from people in the inside seats because most of the dramatic scenery would be out of the right-hand side where we were – so we were very happy! Off we went at 10.00 on the dot and it was a very exciting feeling.
To start with we went through mainly flat cultivated land with pleasant views both sides but then we started to climb. The climb averaged one meter in every fifty so pretty soon we were up in the trees on the track which had to be hewn from the mountain side. The climb became more and more pronounced and the views
down across the Barron Gorge below became more and more dramatic. Not only were we on the better side of the carriage but we had an absolutely clear window alongside us so I was spoilt with my opportunities to take photos. On occasions the bends in the track were so sharp that I could take pictures of the engine up ahead and the rest of the carriages following on behind. It reminded us of our very special journey on the Rocky Mountaineer in Canada several years ago although today’s journey would last less than 2 hours rather than a few days. Occasionally, although not moving fast, the train would slow at certain spots that offered truly spectacular scenes and at one point, at Stoney Creek Station, it stopped for 10 minutes so that people could get out to fully appreciate the splendour of the view looking down along the full extent of Barron Gorge. After a thrilling journey of about 1 ½ hours we arrived at Kuranda Station which was very picturesque with lovely, colourful garden areas. We trooped out of the station keen to make the most of our time but first we needed some lunch. We ignored the
entreaties of a man cracking a whip at Fanny O’Reilly’s Irish Bar and Grill (which would have been entertaining at the very least!) and strolled on until we came to a reasonable looking café where we had grilled fish and chips.
Kuranda is a charming little town – totally geared to welcoming and extracting money from the hundreds and hundreds of tourists that arrive each day either on the train or via the sky rail or, judging by the packed car-parks, by road. We enjoyed wandering around the many gift shops and the craft market area and of course I succumbed to temptation and bought a couple of things. Besides the shops there were many interesting places to visit but we just wanted to go to one – the Butterfly Sanctuary. We had been there before on our previous visit and were utterly fascinated by the collection of butterflies. It is apparently the largest butterfly aviary in Australia and home to about 1500 butterflies that are all hand-reared on the premises. All the butterflies are varieties local to north Queensland and all are truly lovely. But the ones we most wanted to see were the Ulysses and the Cairns
The interior of our carriage
- it had a beautiful ceiling and some splendid old photos Birdwing. We have seen a few Ulysses near the caravan park but not the Birdwing. They are the largest species in Australia with a wingspan of up to 16 cms and are black with beautiful flashes of green. So it was quite a thrill to wander amongst them and watch them feeding. The butterflies seemed to like Graham’s hat and landed on there several times and one in particular just didn’t want to go! Besides the aviary we were able to look at caterpillars in various stages of development and there was also a huge display of different varieties of butterflies and moths.
By the time I’d looked around the shop about 1 ½ hours had slipped by and we were in need of more refreshment so I had some delicious ice-cream and Graham had an equally tasty cheesecake.
Our mode of transport for the return journey would not be the train but something completely different - we were going back down the mountain on Skyrail, an amazing 7.5 kms of cableway that tower over the rainforest. The tallest tower is 40.5 metres high or for us oldies 133 feet but the highest point above the base of
the gorge to a suspended cable-car is a staggering 545 metres (1,788 feet). Eight years ago we did the same trip back down in a cable-car but because of his concern about heights Graham didn’t enjoy the journey much. He was determined to do it again but how would he fare this time we wondered? We ‘booked in’ at the ticket office (the badges that we had been given this morning and which were now firmly stuck to our chests were confirmation that we had already paid) and joined the lengthy queue. As with the train we were lucky and when our cable car came along we were first in so we got forward facing seats, unlike the family opposite us who constantly moaned about it. Graham was slightly concerned as we left the terminus as then there was no escape route until we reached the half-way point. But over the last eight years he has deliberately confronted his problem with heights (tree-top walks, chair lifts etc) so he was able to cope really well. It’s an incredible feeling when you are suddenly in mid-air at such a height with just a bit of cable between you and disaster!!
After about 20 minutes or so of gliding over the treetops we reached the first of two ‘stations’ where it’s possible to take a short walk to some lookouts which give a fantastic view across the gorge towards the Barron Falls. Last time Graham didn’t want to get out in case he couldn’t bring himself to get back in again. But there was no problem like that this time so we took a quick stroll to one of the lookouts. We had a marvellous view of the Barron Gorge and Falls. Although the grumpy family had also got out at the same time, they were now nowhere to be seen so when we climbed aboard another cable car about 10 minutes later we found ourselves opposite a delightful older couple from Tasmania. This time we were actually facing ‘the wrong way’ but we felt it didn’t really matter and it was just as exciting to look back to where we had been! The entertaining chatter from the other couple kept Graham relaxed and it transpired that the lady was as equally wary as Graham and chatting was her way of coping with it. They were ex-pats and the fellow had
been brought up in Lydney but they have been in Tassie for 40 years.
At Red Peak Station – roughly the half way point - a second cable circuit is engaged for safety reasons so everyone has to change cars. This gave us another opportunity for a brief walk along a boardwalk to see the views and to visit a small interpretive centre. For the final section of our journey we had a cable-car to ourselves. I was a bit disappointed as I had meant to ask our last companions to take a photo of us. No matter, Graham took a great ‘arms length’ photo so we’d have a memento without having to purchase one of the official, rather ‘naff’ photos!
All too soon our fabulous ride down the mountain was over as we reached the Skyrail Terminus where we had left our car first thing this morning. We reflected on what had been an incredible experience - the whole day had been very special and it is definitely one to be added to our list of ‘favourite excursions’. Tomorrow would be a much quieter day.
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