What a Place!

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After our strenuous efforts of Sunday we decided to have a quieter day on Monday but again we ventured off into the Warrumbungles. There were a couple of short walks still to do so we stopped at the Visitor Centre and asked about the Tara Cave Walk. It’s within Aborigine sensitive land but it was still possible to do the walk although we wouldn’t be able to go inside the cave. First, we did the 1km Gurianawa Track walk which started from the Visitor Centre. It was a very pleasant, easy stroll with well marked and informative signs about flora and fauna and was very enjoyable. We had our morning cuppa and then drove on to ‘The Woolshed’ which is an education centre and is from where the Tara Cave walk starts. In the school holidays they run courses for children and Aboriginal guides are on hand to enable access to the cave. But today it was deserted. Not far into the walk we had to cross a creek on stepping stones (which I was a bit dubious about) but I managed without falling in. There were some steps on this walk but it was nowhere near as hard as the climb to ‘Fan’s Horizon’. The cave was ‘caged’ so we couldn’t get in to see the cave paintings but the walk and the views had made it all worthwhile. We had really enjoyed our foray into the Warrumbungles.

Later that day we had a wander around ‘Coona’, bought a bit of carpet for the lounge/kitchen area of Sweetie, enjoyed a cup of coffee and then Graham dropped me off at Crystal Kingdom which was virtually opposite the caravan park. It’s a fascinating shop cum museum and had a wonderful variety of crystals and gems plus a very interesting display of local fossils and rocks some of which are millions of years old. The shop is for sale as the owners want to retire - Nola Bredereck the owner was a lovely, friendly lady who obviously loves the place. She is desperate for someone to come along with the same passion that she has so I really hope that happens for her. I came close to buying a crystal or two but couldn’t quite decide so came away empty handed.

We had decided to stay an extra day to do some exploring in the Pilliga Forest. So, come Tuesday, there were some statues and sandstone caves we wanted to see. We drove to Baradine to visit the newly opened discovery centre for the Pilliga area. The centre was brilliant - possibly the best we’ve seen so far and will go a long way to making Baradine a major tourist town. There was an extensive photographic exhibition there of birds which was excellent. The region is home to so many different birds and wild flowers. The young lady assistant was brilliant and helped us plan our day in the forest. She went to great lengths to highlight the specific route we should take on a map, even to the point of taking a precise road out of town. She stressed the need to follow only the recommended routes as it was easy to go astray in Pilliga and, as one of the largest forested areas in Australia, getting lost would not be good!! We followed her instructions and after only 4 kms the road became a sandy, dirt track. PIE had been kept pretty clean since her wash in Albury but all was going to change today! We travelled over 35 kms along mostly good but often rutted tracks where care needed to be taken through the “Dips” - areas where the track was partially washed away but still passable. The wild flowers are out as it’s spring here so the edges of the track were covered with mostly purple flowers.

Our first destination was Dandry Gorge - there was a free campsite there with loos and water but no campers today. We had a cuppa and then set off on the “Sculptures in the Scrub” walk - a new project that had only been opened a few weeks. I took my big camera as I was hopeful of seeing some of the local birds and flowers and Graham was in charge of our small Fuji camera. We soon came to the start of the sculpture trail which was marked by a beautiful sign then there were, of course, more steps to the top where we were greeted by the first sculpture, a creation made of stainless steel. We strolled on and came to the next sculpture in the series which too is made of stainless steel. It is by Col Henry and called ’Scrub Spirit’. The figures came alive as the sun’s rays caught them. The next sculpture is probably the most magnificent one of its kind we have seen. It reminded me of those we saw a few years ago in the William Rickets Sanctuary in the Dandenongs near Melbourne. It’s called ‘First Lesson’ by Brett Garling. He got the idea because the area was used as an Aboriginal camp and hunting ground and so the sculpture is of a man teaching his son about the gorge. On along the trail we came to another sculpture which shows ancient and modern axes. The creator, Ken Hutchinson got the idea because the local Gamiluroi people worked in forestry and still do today but now they use modern technology. The last sculpture by Badger Bates, is called ‘Yulaa’ or ‘Connections’. Badger is an Aborigine and his wonderful sculpture shows connections with the earth, moon and stars with the theme of the rainbow serpent running through it. We felt very fortunate to have seen these sculptures so soon after they were put in place. The walk continued down to and back along the valley of the gorge. Anyone adventurous enough to camp in this wonderful spot would have a fantastic time. There was not the number of birds and flowers that I had hoped for but it really didn’t matter.

We still had more to see so we drove on along the dirt road for another 30 or so kilometers and on the way surprised a family of emus - dad and two chicks (mum lays the eggs and then clears off leaving dad to raise the children!). We got to the main highway but were only on the tarmac for a few kms before we were back on the dirt track for about 15 kms until we got to the Sandstone Caves. The local Gamilaroi people lived in and around the caves for thousands of years and some of the rock art has been dated up to 12000 years old. The sandstone patterns on the roof of some of the caves were spectacular and it was another special place. The picturesque 1.7kms walk was again well worth the effort of getting there.

By now it was time for a cup of tea and, back in Baradine, the lady in the tourist centre recommended a “quirky” location for a Devonshire Tea. So back to the main highway we went, travelled just a few kms and then down yet another dirt track for 10 kms until we came to ‘Pilliga Pottery’. Graham had a ‘Devonshire Tea’ but I wanted Raisin Toast. Alas, the young lady, who was German, didn’t seem to understand so I settled for some of Graham’s scone with some jam and cream. The girl was very chatty and said she was ‘WOOFING’. We do actually know what this is because Sarah and Darryl had considered it - Working On a Farm. It’s a great way for travellers to see different parts of the country while keeping expenses down, working for bed and board but not actually getting paid. Our German friend said she was having a wonderful time and had just applied to extend her visa but knew her parents wouldn’t approve - I wonder if she will ever go home. I had a good look round the shop and workshop and of course ended up buying a few things even though it was very expensive - still, everything was made there and is unique.

Coonabarabran is the Solar Capital of Australia and is regarded as an excellent place for stargazing (hence the major telescopes etc) so a lot of the roads we’ve been travelling on in this area have been on the ‘Solar System Drive’. We’ve come across most of the planets detailed on huge roadside signs in various locations. Jupiter was one of them but Sarah and Darryl’s neighbours back in Moira David, Jo, Jonathan and Patrick were able show them the real one the other day on their telescope.

This had been a very special day and a memorable few days in the Warrumbungle/Pilliga regions of NSW with more to see if we ever come this way again.

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