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Published: October 25th 2008
I was thinking of breaking this up into a couple of entries, but you’re going to get it all in one shot. So, if you have the time, perhaps now would be the time to get a fresh cup of coffee. I know that I could use one right about now.
After leaving Adrian’s farm, Stevens and I sucked it up and took the interstate from Ellensburg to Seattle. That stretch was one of the longer ones we’ve pulled on a major highway, and it was about as exciting as we were excited to be on that road. Not at all really. Although we were happy to be in Seattle to catch up with old friends, neither one of us were very excited to be in the big city. In fact it was quite disconcerting for two guys who have not seen a city bigger than Anchorage in a while, or much civilization at all over the previous two weeks. I also got my ass kicked by the crosswind on what seemed to be a 15-mile bridge on the way into town.
One of the bigger coups of being in Seattle was the food. It was delicious. We had a
blast catching up with some old friends over cold beers and free billiards. Brian Kerr was kind enough to put us up, and we were also able to catch up with Buttleman, Sara, and Steveo. As fun as it could have been to hang out longer, a day in Seattle was plenty for us, especially with the promise of the Cascades calling us back again. It was time to get out.
A brief aside. Do the grooves in the concrete highway actually serve a purpose? If they don’t, I hope I never meet the misanthrope from the DOT responsible for them. Let me tell you, it is not a lot of fun going down the highway on a motorcycle at 70 mph with those grooves biting at your front tire. If they serve a purpose, I understand. If not, I will kick the shit out of that person if I ever find them.
From Seattle we were able to make camp just outside of Mount Rainer to camp. Ah camp, another roadside attraction. We caught some shelter at essentially an information stand and it helped make for an early and speedy morning. The night was clear and the full
moon was out in all its glory. I felt tempted to read by moonlight it was so bright. The ride that day was nothing short of spectacular. Mount Rainer was out in all of its glory. The weather in the morning was crisp, but very clear and dry. The shots of Rainer are rather self-explanatory.
The ride that day was about as good as it had been so far. After we left Rainer it was nice forest service road through lush forests on our attempt to get out to Mount St. Helens. Unfortunately, the road all the way out to the volcano was washed out. While we were checking out the view from as close as we could get, my battery died. By chance, the only other people out there had a little battery jumper and got me going again. So far, we’ve run into help anytime we’ve needed it.
From the lush forest Stevens and I took off for the high desert of central Oregon. It was quite a dramatic shift in climate. On the reservation as we were approaching Bend, OR, the temperatures hit the mid 70’s. It was like a dream come true. I couldn’t strip
my layers fast enough. I ripped the liner out of my jacket and have only had to put it in briefly since. It was wonderful to open some vents on the jacket and let it fill with warm desert air.
In Bend we caught up with Haley and her BFF Kala and the antics were quite entertaining. We stuck around Bend so I could check spelunker off the old life quest list. That quest was met with mixed results that included as much driving in circles as anything else, but I did get to climb through a lava tube. At least the weather was warm and I basked in some sun.
From Bend, it was time to head towards the coast and see some giant trees, but not before getting a chance to check out Crater Lake. Crater Lake is on top of a dead volcano and I had never seen anything quite like that. One of the overlooks was at 8,000 feet, literally the highest I’ve been on two feet to that point.
So I ask you, how do two, arguably heterosexual dudes head into the Redwood Forest, home of our nations largest wood? Through the backdoor, on
a dirt road of course. Who knew that behind the Redwood forest there is a beautiful rolling prairie? Not me.
On our way to the Redwoods we broke 2,000 miles on the bikes. As the riding got better I’ve had a lot more time to think as I am realizing myself as a sensory being. Stevens and I have both noticed that we are much sharper at reading the sky for shifting weather. I’ve noticed that not only can I smell water as it approaches, but I can distinguish if it is fresh rain, or from a lake, or it doesn’t belong, like an irrigated golf course. Coming through the Redwoods for some reason I was thinking about Tom Joad and The Grapes of Wrath. Don’t ask me why, it just popped in there. I was thinking about how much different a forced march would be I suppose. As we stopped for a coffee break Matt spotted an auto parts store. We both had half an eye out for one because I needed to see if I could rig something to replace a mirror I had cracked while gassing up of all things. While I’m sorting through the bad
options in the store, Matt noticed that next to the auto parts store was a cut glass store. Matt went in and talked to the guy for a minute and by the time I came out he was out taking a look at the mirror. He said he could fix it and named a fair price. He also told us about some great coffee within 50 yards that we could go get, and that he should be done when we get back.
Matt and I went and got the coffee, which was rather delicious and when we got back the mirror was already back on the bike good as new. I went in to pay the man he told me that I could give him half of what he asked and that he also cut me a spare. He said we were on the road. I was very appreciative so I went out to the bike to get him one of the prints of some Alaska shots I’ve been carrying to leave along the way. I go in and give him the print and we get to talking. He says if we had time for a bit of a
history lesson he would tell us a little bit about the town. We learned some cool things; about logging, the history of the foggy town as a training ground for World War II pilots preparing for the possibility of having to take back London, how he’s noticed that the town is less foggy since so many of the great big trees had been logged. Then he says, actually this town was started by a bunch of Okies during the dust bowl. As a matter of fact he said, most people in that town could trace some kin to Okie blood. Blew my hair back a little.
While camping in the Redwoods we decided to make a break for Vegas to meet up with some friends who would be there in a couple of days. It would take quite a push that was a lot of ground to cover. I had plans to meet up with Goble outside of Sacramento already. We would then have to push over through Yosemite, over the Sierras and down through Death Valley in two days time. We were game.
I left Stevens in Yuba City as he wanted to make a straight break
for Yosemite. I was able to meet up with Goble and meet his folks who were nice enough to put me up. They are really sweet and interesting people and I’m glad that I got a chance to meet them. The push through Yosemite was truly spectacular having caught me by complete surprise. I didn’t think we would go there and I guess I didn’t know much about the park. It’s a dramatic mix of huge sequoias and beautifully exposed rock. From there I randomly met back up with Stevens and we camped just outside of Death Valley. I decided to top off the gas tank that night so I would be full the going into Death Valley. The total for the gas was $6.66. I shit you not. That day I also cracked 3,000 miles of riding on the trip with my longest single day at just under 400 miles. My ass is actually doing just fine thanks.
Death Valley was as hot as it sounds even on a relatively moderate day. It definitely has it’s own sort of beauty, and is far from desolate. We made it to Vegas late in the afternoon. We met up with our
Haley
Who farted?people and had a good time. I am told that that is all I’m allowed to tell you, it being Vegas and all.
I write you from the Henderson Public Library, a few short miles from Hoover Dam. Stevens and I will probably camp just outside of the dam tonight before parting ways. Matt is heading to a retreat in Flagstaff and I will head north to the Great Basin. We should meet up in maybe a week’s time near the Grand Canyon, but that remains to be seen I suppose. It will be interesting leaving my road dog. It’s been a fantastic partnership these last few weeks, but I am also looking forward to the solace and challenge of going it alone.
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missy
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groovin
pretty sure the grooves in the concrete highway are to keep the truckers from falling asleep. hope you can understand. loves the blog. xox