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Published: September 11th 2014
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Jackson to Colter Bay
Away at 7.30 for breakfast on a coolmorning with most covering the surrounding hills. No grits today for me but a fried egg with chopped bacon in it, hash browns that looked like straw and toast with copious amounts of coffee. The route up to Moose was on a very smooth dedicated cycle way which was separated from the traffic by a few metres of earth. Unfortunately due to the mist we did not see much wildlife through the Elk Sanctuary on our right but as it lifted we had beautiful views of the Tetons across to our left. We took a detour along Gros Ventre road and then left along a rough track Mormon Row where we took some iconic photographs of a shaky old barn with the Tetons in the background. Shortly after we stopped at Dornans Chuck Wagon for a snack before making our way along another cycle way to Jenny Lake.This is where we rejoined the main road to Colter Bay and took a short break sat across a boat trailer in a lay by fitted with carpet on the runners. A
short diversion to Oxbow on the Snake River allowed us to see a pelican fishing. Earlier we had seen an Osprey and a Buzzard on duty looking for food in addition to many unusual small birds. On booking in at Canyon Lodge we were met with a casual remark that a bridge had been washed away on the road between West Thumb and old Faithful. This left me in a state of shock since the only other route to Old Faithful is by taking an anticlockwise trip via Lake, Canyon and Madison to Old Faithful, which is 130 miles and impossible for us on bikes laden with panniers. Bill and myself went to the visitor centre and asked for more details from a warden who was the most negative man on the planet Earth. He said, "Ah! there is no way to get through to because the bridge is out." We said, "Could you find out if there is any way across a foot bridge for instance." After pressure, he rang someone for details and started off by saying, "I believe the bridge is out and can't think there is any way that these cyclists could get through, is there?"
That is not the way to encourage anyone to help overcome our dilemma but brought about instant agreement from the other party. Again, after persuasion, he let us use the office phone to speak to the accommodation booking office of Yellowstone and I eventually spoke to Kim who I had made the Yellowstone arrangements with. We thought maybe we could rearrange our schedule to another location for one night on the way to Canyon. She was very helpful and went away to see if there was anywhere else to stay, or if transport could be arranged to drive us around. Unfortunately all the sites were full so she then after one hour of negotiation she eventually found some transport in the form of a coach which would collect us from Lake Hotel. The downside is that the cost is $950 but the holiday was saved. Phew! We have now to be sure that we cover the 60 odd miles tomorrow over the divide by 3.30pm. I can now sleep tonight.
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