Au Revoir, Togo

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Well you all must be wondering what happened to me since I haven't written in quite a while. I've been keeping quite busy, and I'll update you on all that. Also this website has been down and it seems I've lost my last blog entry about my friend's visit.

But to let you know the big news: I had to leave the Peace Corps and return home to the US. The circumstances around my departure are very personal so forgive me for not expounding upon them here. Just rest assured that I and my family are in good health and that if I truly had the choice I would have stayed in Togo for another year and finished my entire service. But, C'est la vie! I certainly learned that you can't take anything for granted, and you can't plan too far ahead. I had no idea 2 weeks ago that today I would be sitting here at a computer in Seattle writing this entry! However, although I am not a very spiritual person, I have to believe that this whole situation was meant to be. Case in point: I was at a period of tranisiton in my service (moving to Atakpame, the regional capital), and when I found out the news that I must leave my bags were literally already packed. And I have already been replaced my an incoming volunteer so none of the projects will suffer. Of course I was extremely sad to leave all of my Togolese and volunteer friends, especially after their outpouring of support for me. But I am confident that I will see my volunteer comrades in the States some day, and I hope to at least one day return to Togo to check up on my friends there. And besides, with e-mail and phone calls I can keep in contact with everyone from across the world. So I've accepted the situation. Now I'm back to the American lifestyle of incredible luxury (no power outages, comfortable toilets, good food fast, personal cars, fast internet access, hundreds of TV channels, wow we have it good!) and busy, busy days. I'm currently talking to my grad school, the Daniel J. Evans School of Public Affairs at the University of Washington, in order to finish my degree and find a job in the mean time. And I'm staying with my ever supportive and loving friend Norris to help me get settled. I'm also touching base with lots of old friends. Oh, and lest I forget, my parents, my brother and his wife, even my extended family have been incredibly supportive. So in the grand scheme of things all is well, and I'm glad to be back.

WHat happened during my last few months in Togo? Well I'll have to be a little brief since lately I've been looking a lot more to the immediate future than the immediate past. But most memorable was my parents visit to Togo. This was their first trip out of North America! They flew into Accra, Ghana, where I met them at the airport, and they ahd already made Ghanaian friends on the flight over! We spent a night in Accra eating at nice restaurants and meeting fellow Togo PCVS who had travelled there. The next day we made the harrowing trip to Lome and connected with our hired car and driver as well as some friends of mine in the city. On the third day we made the trip to Adeta to see my host family, and on the way we took advantage of the hired car to stop and see several volunteers' and friends' homes and to aprticipate in no less than 3 fetes (or celebrations)! At one point the car broke down in the middle of the road just as it was raining and the power had been cut, but we still amde it. Such is Togo!

My host family was fabulous, welcoming my real parents with dancers, food, and gifts. Likewise for my close friends in the town. My parents even got to sleep in the room that was mine for three months during training, although they didn't get to experience the bucket shower (yet). The next morning, with the car repaired, we continued on to Atakpame to see what was to be my future home and work site. My parents were real troopers, partying with crazy PCVs at a nightclub in the city, after a relaxing dinner with two PCVs Cate and Wayne. During our time in Atakpame we also took a day trip to the Nangbeto dam, near the Benin border, and saw hippos up close and personal! Then we continued on the horrendous 30 km road to my village Elavagnon, where my parents got to see how I lived in Togo. No my house doesn't have electricity or running water but I think it is quite comfortable and I think my parents agreed. At any rate they adapted quickly and made fast friends with the little neighbor girls who loved the attention (I usually just ignore them lol). We walked to the huge Saturday market and met some close friends and counterparts of mine along the way. The next day we had to return to Lome, where it was pouring down rain (Togo shuts down in the rain, which is all the worse since the rainy season lasts practically half the year). THe next day we had to return to Accra already for my parents to fly back home. I loved having them in Togo with me and I was very impressed at how well they adapted to the tough conditions: the heat, the food, the bathrooms, the roads, the language and cultural barriers. I was equally impressed with how warmly and generously my Togolese friends and family welcomed my parents. It was a nice ending to my service.

Before that momentous visit, I kept busy with two youth camps and my move to Atakpame. The camps were both exhausting and incredibly rewarding as the kids became more comfortable with us and opened up. The first camp was for young male apprentices, and we talked about sexual health, confidence, communication skills, planning, and time management. I ran sessions on child trafficking (facilitating testimonies of two trafficked young adults in order to warn others not to fall into the trap) and planning. I also loved my group of guys: they were so respectful and responsible! The next camp was for AIDS orphans, and these kids had a lot more behavioral problems but they were no less lovable by the end. We taught them similar lessons, and I helped most with sessions on hygiene, planning, and starting a small business venture. But the best parts were capture the flag, the candlelight vigil that created a mood in which kids opened up to me with their life stories, and the final dance (I got to play DJ!). I will never forget these kids - I think they touched me a lot more than I could ever touch them.

And finally the move that almost was... Well I am replaced in Elavagnon by a new volunteer named Ashley, and I have 100% confidence in her. Shortly before I left we spent a week in Elavagnon together and she seemed to fit right in. At the same time I got to say goodbye to my peeps in my village and had a last dinner party with Ashley, Aboga (my advisor), Midodji (my Ewe teacher) and Paulin (who helped with the gardening club). Part of the reason I am ok with leaving Togo is that I know there are so many qualified and motivated volunteers there to carry the torch.

So I guess I can't keep writing in a travel blog if I'm not really travelling anymore... Well who cares, this has turned out to be a therapeutic tool and a great way to stay in touch with friends and family all over the world. Of course I'll try to keep you all posted about my latest adventures. But now that I'm back in the land of hi-speed internet, I can even respond individually, so feel free to write. Thanks to all those who have sent their encouragement and support to me through this site, I guarantee that I read it and that it made my days in Togo a little bit brighter. And to all those volunteers in Togo: you guys rock! I have so much respect for what you do 24/7! You really are making the world a better place.

Peace,
Steve

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