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Published: November 25th 2023
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Today was occupied by a visit to the Hoh Rain Forest and then the drive to Olympia, which was mostly uninteresting (the drive, that is).
The rain forest is the finest remaining example of the vast temperate rainforest that once stretched from southeastern Alaska to the central coast of California. From the Kalaloch Lodge, we had to backtrack somewhat to reach the visitor center. If you decide to go, go early in the morning. Otherwise, prepare yourself for a prolonged sojourn in your car waiting for admission as others leave.
The origin of the name "Hoh" is lost. Some think it comes from a Native American word meaning"fast flowing river". Since the broad and fast-flowing river divides the land, some think the name comes from a Native American word meaning boundary. A third explanation is that the names translates to "man with quarreling wives". I am going with that one. The river flows down from Mt. Olympus to the coast, carrying along large loads of glacial sediment. This creates large sandbars and temporary islands, giving the river its appearance as a "braided" river. The glacial sediment also gives the river the blue-gray color that is so characteristic of glacial-fed
streams.
The rainforest receives about 140 inches of rain per year, mostly during the winter period. There is such dense growth that the search for light becomes a dominating theme for young plants. In addition, this temperate rain forest is inhabited largely by coniferous trees such as western hemlock, Sitka spruce, Douglas fir, and western red cedar. Because these trees are evergreen they produce little leaf litter on the forest floor, making the soil of this rainforest relatively lacking in nutrients. This produces yet another challenge for young seedlings. As usual, life finds a way. When old trees die, they fall, and the crashing foliage clears much undergrowth, creating a window to the sunlight. Then as the old tree decomposes, it provides a nourishing substrate of decaying vegetation for young plants. The dead tree thus becomes what is known as a "nurse tree". It is common here to see younger seedlings in various stages of growth lined up along a straight line. Sometimes the remnants are the nurse tree are still visible, and at other times they are completely gone, and all you see is a linear array of younger trees with root systems that begin well above the
ground, marking the hight of the previous log.
The other prominent of this temperate rain forest is moss. It is everywhere, draping from tree limbs, covering the ground, and masking tree trunks. The thick growth of the mosses, lichens, and fungi, as well as the epiphyte ferns, acts as a natural sound deadener, and the forest seems quiet even when other people are around. As you wander through the moss-scape, you come upon occasional clearings, and there young deciduous trees are trying to establish a place to survive. Along the river the area is clearer, with low shrubs growing freely.
We did not see any animals while in the rain forest itself. It houses the largest known herd of Roosevelt elk, and numerous other species, but they were not on view for us.
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