Spring Shakedown to Shilo--Pt. 2

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Thursday was our day to visit Shilo and after a restful night, we got up early, and started out. The GPS in the car routed us a back road to the battlefield. I don’t mean a state route instead of an interstate; no, it took us on back gravel roads that looked like Gen. Johnston could have travelled on 150 years ago! Interesting ride past sod farms, dirt paths to the river, and swamps with roads barely above the water.

I have been reading a lot on the Civil War. We’ve visited most of the major battlefields in the East. Shilo was the first BIG battle in the west. In 1862 Grant started south and after defeating the Confederates at Forts Donelson and Henry, brought his armies up the Tennessee to Pittsburgh Landing, just 20 miles from Corinth, MS, a major rail hub for the south. He landed over 40,000 troops there and waited reinforcements coming from Nashville, TN and then was to push on and capture Corinth, cutting the South’s supply line and controlling the western half of the Confederacy. But General Albert Johnston had other ideas, and after gathering his army in Corinth, set out to surprise Grant before support could arrive.

The troops met at Shilo Methodist Church, 2 miles from the landing, and in fierce fighting, pushed the Union back to the landing and possible annihilation. Night fell and with it, the arrival of Grant’s reinforcements. The next day, Grant counter attacked and with fresh troops, pushed the Southerners back the two miles and more, until they finally retreated back to Corinth. It was a bloody affair with over 20% causalities and over 3,500 killed on the battlefield. It shocked the nation with the bloodletting, and yet was exceeded later that year in the bloodiest one day battle in US history at Antietam and then a year later by Chancellorsville and Gettysburg.

The battlefield was preserved almost as it was 150+ years ago (thanks in part to it’s remoteness) and the movie at the park depicts the events in graphic fashion. The tour around the field is well laid out and you realize as you drive (remember, it is 2 miles from the initiation to Pittsburgh Landing) how convoluted and wooded the area was/is. It was indeed sobering to get out and walk some of the battle lines and realize that just a bit ago in time (my great-great grandfather) fought standing up with a musket loader and stood 50-100 yards away firing at the enemy. That is close! Then think about the cannons firing from both near and far willed with the equivalent of ball bearings. It tore through trees and men, leaving parts of both scattered on the ground. And still the troops marched shoulder to shoulder forward.

As we wandered through the battlefield (in a car) stopping at the various points, marveled at the ancient Indian mounds from the Mississippian era. Right on the banks of the Tennessee, a huge settlement had developed with mounds remaining of where buildings had stood and were leaders had been buried. Because it was so rural, by the time of the Civil War, they had not yet been disturbed. Then, after the war, it was turned into a National Battlefield early on and so still remained undisturbed. Other mounds up and down the river did not escape destruction and obliteration, so here we have a unique opportunity to study the early inhabitants of the area.

Lunch was at the Nagy Catfish Hotel on the Tennessee River, just down river from Pittsburgh Landing. It is not a hotel but was said to be like one because when folks came for the all you could eat catfish, they’d eat so much and take so long, they needed someplace to stay. It was really good! Trish opted for country ham steak with red-eye gravy and small slider biscuits. Also awesome. Neither of us could finish so we had lots of good leftovers. We read a review and Nagy’s was rated one of the top 10 catfish restaurants in the US by several food magazines, so glad the ranger at the campground mentioned it to us.

Friday we decided to drive into Corinth, MS to see the Civil War Interpretive Center. In the modernistic center building, we found a gift shop, hands on museum with videos and quizzes, and a great 30 minute movie on the battle. There were not many folks there and the Ranger in Charge at the desk held the movie for us so we could make a bio-break. After the movie she came into the theater and started chatting. Turns out Ashley is not just Ranger in charge, but is the Superintendent of the park. She found out I had worked for the government and we had a wonderful time talking about careers, moving around, government jobs, and dealing with the bureaucracy. Ashley has worked for the government for 15 years and is about the age of our daughter, so it was a most pleasant encounter.

After walking through the museum, as we were leaving, we asked for a recommendation for lunch. Ashley laughed and recommended Borroum’s Drug Store in the center of town. She then said to be sure and have a “Slugburger.” Intrigued, we took her directions and headed the 4 blocks into town.

The pharmacy was established in 1869 by a retired Confederate Surgeon and has been in operation ever since. It truly is an old time drug store complete with operating soda fountain. We walked in and all the tables and booths were full and only 3 stools were empty at the soda fountain, so we grabbed two and then got a menu. They had a great selection of sandwiches and there was the Slugburger for only $1.75. Turns out this was developed in the Depression when meat was expensive. They took cheap hamburger, pounded it really flat, breaded it in flour and deep fried it. It was really thin! It came with a thick slice of onion, mayo and liberal squirt of mustard. Actually pretty good. The big attraction were the milkshakes; they were made the old fashioned way with huge scoops of ice cream, syrup, a touch of milk, and the silver shaker put on a mixer. It was served in the old fashioned fountain glass and then the silver shaker with the remaining shake was also given you. Absolutely heavenly!!

When we went to leave, there were old cabinets on the wall crammed with old pill bottles, containers of old medicines, and boxes of band aids and other medical treasures. Really a great blend of museum, eatery and still functioning drug store/pharmacy. We drove around the town and bit and then headed back to the campground.

Saturday morning we had a restful breakfast then broke camp and headed back home. Everything worked as it should; we had an interesting visit to differing areas in northwest Alabama, and we were relaxed and ready to have out next adventure. We highly recommend the sights to any heading this way and would be happy to take any visitors back for cultural, historical, or epicurean visits.

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Photos

Tribute to Confederate Dead
General Johnston is depicted in the stone under the statues because he was killed in the battle near this point. The figures represent the southern women left alone with death on one side and darkness on the other, all part of the tragedy of the battle.

Southern cannon firing into the Hornet's Nest
The long rows of cannon is frightening to behold. Imagine the masses of cannon, firing canister rounds into the huddled men with the sound being like buzzing hornets continuing for hours.

Shilo Church
This is an accurate reproduction on the same site as the original. It is extremely simple and plain in design and construction. And right next to it is the current Shilo Methodist church, still being used today.

Unknown dead
For weeks after the battle, the dead were being gathered, put in mass graves two or more deep, and covered. This is the final resting place for 125 unknown Confederate soldiers.

The brutal statistics
Armies of almost equal size and casualities (killed, wounded, missing in action) of over 20%.

REAL old-timey milkshake
These ladies never stopped....milkshakes, phosphates, cherry cokes, and sundaes were constantly being prepared and sent to hungry customers.

Slug-burger
Looks funky, but actually quite tasty. Washed down with a thick, big vanilla milkshake.

Borrum's Drug Store in Corinth MS
What a great blend of museum, eatery and working pharmacy!

Sasquach
Near the campground was a restaurant called the Outpost. Food was reputed to be excellent and large portions. But outside, a wood carver had a shop with wonderful works of art for sale. This was but one example.