From big city to small town US of A

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I'd be lying if I said we noticed anything remarkable on our approach to State College. It was 4am, we'd been on the go since 7am; in short, it was dark and we were tired. Alison and Yeti mercifully collected us at 4am and we headed straight to bed!

Later that day, after a few hours of precious sleep, the exploring began. First, we hit the local shops and they didn't disappoint. These included a sports wear store selling a variety of guns and several supermarkets severely lacking in alcohol, which is sold almost exclusively at designated stores. Wandering around, we noted the strange names Americans give to their produce (Zucchini, heavy cream or meat free beans anyone?) and the strange flavour combinations. We won't be trying Caramel and Cheese Popcorn anytime soon...

As we navigated the town, it was impossible to miss the vastness. Huge and comparatively empty roads, equally large cars and all flanked by mountains and forests. Even the vast array of 1950s wood panelled houses, which came in all shapes and sizes, did not help us determine our location.

Our visit to State College Campus itself, was something else entirely. It made the open spaces and athletic pitches of which Loughborough is so proud look tiny. In the absence of the majority of students, the academic year having finished, the campus seems empty. We took advantage of this opportunity to explore without the usual hustle and bustle of students. The campus boasts a rather fabulous ice cream shop serving huge portions and a variety of flavours (a deliciously indulgent stop on our tour) and, more significantly, the third largest (American) Football Stadium in the world. It truly was enormous and included, bizarrely, an adjoining museum. College football is huge event here, especially in comparison to the indifference felt towards UK university sports. We had to take a glance around the souvenir shop to fully understand this. Within we saw the Penn State emblem (a lion, if you are interested) embossed all manner of clothing and athletic gear, mugs, coasters, bottles, hats, banners, posters and more. Evidently, this is big business.

Having yet to encounter anyone from the local Amish communities, we set of for Elk Creek Cafe in a neighbouring town for a late brunch and, hopefully, some Amish spotting. We were not disappointed. On our drive out of town we spotted a woman in traditional Amish dress filling a car with petrol and flaunting at least half a dozen ideals within the Amish way of life in the process. As we drew closer to our destination, more horse drawn carts crossed our path. The Amish, in their simple, traditional dress, seemed almost resigned to the passing glances of tourists such as ourselves. Finally taking our seats in the Cafe, following a wait for a table in which we had wandered the area, we wiled away the considerable time before our order was taken by trying to catch sight of the passing Amish. Looking over other diners and out the window beyond, there was plenty to see. Most notable among our sightings was a group of joyriding Amish youngsters. Driving the huge open backed cart were two young men, one of whom could be seen glugging down Mountain Dew, with traditionally dressed young women in the back and, completing the picture, a young boy being towed on a pedal-less bicycle. Why Mountain Dew is no less offensive than a bicycle with pedals is a mystery.

Despite its small town charm, it was a treat to leave State College and explore its scenic surroundings. Our camping trip to Raystown Lake, although short lived, afforded beautiful views of the surrounding forestry and mountains, crisp in the initial sunlight and later disguised by the mist. Despite the torrential twelve hour downpour which sent us home on the second day, having kept us up half the night and sent a tide of mud and damp into our tents, we managed to cram plenty in. We followed several walking trails around the lake, explored the marina where we saw the 'Carpet of Carp.' This 'Carpet of Carp' is truly more fish than water as hoards of carp gather at the edge of the lake, waiting open mouthed to be fed dog food by the passing visitors. Kayaking was definitely a hit. Zoe, who had never kayaked before, needed a little help getting into her kayak and was thrilled to survive a turn around the lake without falling in. Water splashed everywhere and it was wet bottoms and smiles all round. We followed this with a refreshing swim in the surprisingly warm lake. We were certainly sorry to pack up and wade through the mud and rain which had infiltrated our tents and clothes, leaving us shivering our way home.

Perhaps the greatest culture shock of our trip thus far was our trip to Belleville Amish Market. This was truly a strange collision of worlds as traditional Amish wandered among Red Neck Hillbilly types. The outskirts of the market were lined with dozens of horse drawn carriages, an Amish car park. Within the market was bustling with Amish in their traditional dress, complete with bonnets and straw hats. Men and boys looked formal in their trousers and jackets whilst it was the beautifully braided hair which caught my eye among the women and girls at the market. Stranger though were the 'Hillbillys'. Each the epitome of a stereotypical, middle aged, white American man with a passion for guns and stabbing things...

Meanwhile, the stalls within boasted an array of deadly weapons including guns, knives and knuckle dusters sat alongside Amish crafts, textiles, produce and baked goods. It would seem that nobody but us thought these two worlds were mismatched. Nonetheless, we seized this opportunity to try some authentic American fare (Whoopie pies- extremely sweet and Shoo Fly Pie- a treacle like filling but nicer than it sounds). Funnily enough, we decided to give the guns and knives a wide berth (after a few subtle photos). Worryingly, it didn't seem that the children frequenting the market felt the same. Most shocking was a young Amish boy, complete with straw hat and basin cut hair, standing with a pistol in his hands. Strange given that the common bicycle is forbidden.

We still have a couple of days left in Penn State before the journey back to New York and the much anticipated flight down to Panama City and the start of the next leg of our journey. Before then however, we have had an offer to stay in a cabin in the woods in the middle of bear territory. Be rude not to I suppose...

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