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During our journey, I have taken to reading aloud to Lukus as he steers, making some of our longer passes more entertaining. Recently, one of the books we had read was partially set in the Hudson River area with poetic descriptions of the scenery. With these words as a prelude, we were looking forward to this leg of the journey. And we have not been disappointed.
We began our journey into the Hudson at New York City. I know some people were shocked to hear we were not stopping at this infamous city. However, the hectic pace and substantial traffic of the area didn’t hold a heavy attraction for us this time around. Maybe we are still adjusting to concentrated urban civilization after our months in more remote and simplistic settings. Plus, the plethora of boats, especially ferries, barges and large tour boats result in very choppy, wishy washy waters, making anchoring or even mooring uncomfortable.
However, even just cruising through the jungle of skyscrapers and famous buildings is quite the experience. The first iconic landmark you see after passing under the Verazano-Narrows bridge coming into the harbour is, of course, the Statue of Liberty. I can almost imagine
the thrill many must have felt when they first saw the statue after weeks at sea. I know how excited I get to be on land after a straight 2 weeks on the boat (which is how long our last stint off-shore was)!
What surprised me most though, was how little it really looked in comparison to the monstrous buildings that now litter the New York City skyline. I am sure back in the 1800’s and early 1900’s, the statue must have stuck out like a beacon on the shoreline. Now, it is dwarfed by it’s surroundings, making it harder to spot until you close in on it. However, it was pretty thrilling to pass directly by this symbol that embodied hope for many in the past.
I was also awed by the density of construction, although I can admit this is not an original impression for me. It often happens when I travel to places that are highly condensed; Istanbul, Tokyo, Athens, Paris, even Toronto. When I try to contemplate the number of people it takes to fill all the high-rises, apartments and condos on such a small piece of land, it is staggering to realize just
We were surrounded!
These big (and some bigger) monsters were all around us in the NYC bay! how many people are on this earth!! Are there really enough people to fill
all these buildings?
While it was entertaining and enthralling to watch the scenes roll by, almost like a Hollywood movie, it was comforting to move back into more naturalistic settings as we travelled up the Hudson.
Soon after passing the precipitous, concrete “mountains” of New York City and it’s surrounding boroughs, we soon found ourselves amid the awe-inspiring Appalachian Mountains. There is something humbling about chugging along in a tiny boat while dwarfed on either side by wooded peaks and stone cliffs.
Scattered along the shore, and nestled within the valleys of these majestic summits are a myriad of quaint little towns and renowned sites. Each has its own unique flavour and historical significance. They set the stage to transport yourself back 100’s of years when this waterway was a main means of exploration into new lands and conveyance for traders and commerce.
Our first planned stop was at Yonkers…come on, with that name, who wouldn’t want to stop?? They have a free municipal dock (yeah free!), but when we arrived there was another boat docked along the outside. As we tried
to pull into the inside, the current was fighting us and the water became too shallow. So, we aborted, shifted plans and moved on. As we have learned over and over; it just works better not to have too much of a “plan” on a boat. Weather, tides, waves and current get to call the shots. If your heart is set on a certain place at a certain time, you will probably end up stressed out. Fortunately, neither of us are too set on anything particular. We are just enjoying each experience as it comes.
In the end, for our first night on the river, we anchored near Sing Sing Prison. While we weren’t too worried about anyone making a break from this maximum security facility to jump on our boat for a quick getaway, we did opt not to have a shower on deck that evening. There is no telling which way the guards on duty are looking and how high-powered their binoculars are; just didn’t want to run the risk of being locked away for indecent exposure!
The second evening was spent anchored on a tributary off the Hudson by the town of Kingston. What a
beautiful, serene area surrounded by rocky cliffs and lush vegetation and steeped in charm. As we chugged through the town, we passed the Hudson River Maritime Museum, lovingly restored/maintained venerable architecture and a wooden boat building school. While we didn’t go to shore at Kingston, it is another place we have added to our “maybe next time” list.
Day three on the river, we passed by the grandeur of the West Point Military Academy. To see the weather worn stone and brick structures along the river’s edge, rising out of the dense foliage backdropped by steep precipices, it reminded me a lot of Europe. How romantic to walk these halls of tradition each day on your way to and from class (well, romantic, minus the “military” stuff)!
By this time, we had finally decided it might be time to stop at a marina as it had been a full two weeks since we had landed anywhere. While we were not out of food, we had depleted our fresh supplies and our meals the last few days were gourmet feasts of mac and cheese, beans, soup and Chef Boyardee (mmm), so provisioning was in order. I was particularly desperate
for a proper shower (showering outside using a shower bag is
not so fun when it is only 60F out!), some clean laundry, and a walk! Early Saturday afternoon, we pulled into Riverview Marine in Catskills. Another rustic, basic marina, but very accommodating and one of the more reasonably priced at $1.75/ft vs the $3+/foot on the lower Hudson. It is hard to choke over $80+ US dollars just for a dock, some water and showers! Add to that paying for laundry, transportation to get provisions and perhaps, if you splurge, a meal out. One day at a marina can quickly add up! Hence why we end up on the hook so much!
Since leaving Catskills, we have been at Waterford, NY, the “gateway” to the Erie Barge Canal (that means just over 300 miles until we are in Lake Erie!!). As the starting point for entering the canal, the town offers a free dock with (get this!!)
free water,
free showers,
free wifi and
free garbage disposal (yet another thing that we have come to appreciate – the ability to dispose of garbage)!! Boaters are permitted to tie up for 48 hours within a calendar month. However, until
Can you spot the mini me?
This playhouse copy of the main house was SO adorable! yesterday, we had 4 days of straight rain, increasing the water levels and subsequently, the currents. The second day we were here, locks 8 – 20 on the canal were closed due to the current. So, things are at a bit of a standstill in the canal system.
Good news? They extended the 48 hour limit at the free docks along the canal. Which means since Monday, we have been tied up to a dock with easy access to showers, groceries, miles of hiking trails, and a fabulous sushi joint! Some boaters tied up here with us are getting antsy and a little frustrated at being “stuck” here, but I must say, we are really enjoying it. After days and days of running the boat and being on the move, it is nice to be in one place for a bit (especially for Lukus who shoulders most of the wheeling). The town is quaint, the people friendly,
and I get to run/walk/bike AND SHOWER every day!! (oh, and did I mention the sushi?? Lol) Who can complain about that?
P.S. I try to include some photos here, but I also post photos on my Facebook. If you aren't
on my FB, and want to see more photos, feel free to "friend" me (Emy Brubacher).
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