NYC Neighbourhoods - Downtown

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Today was the best day so far! A "real" New York day.

It starts with a bagel, of course. Bagel Express is a couple of streets up from 37th and is a local bagel shop / deli. There's a uniformed NYPD officer waiting for his bagel and his coffee. A 60-something lady enters with her dog on a lead and orders her regular. There's maybe 10 cream cheese flavours to choose from and as many bagel options. Milla has sesame with plain, Deaks and I order everything bagels with plain and Jules has cinnamon with blueberry cream cheese. They list the toppings as Spreads/Schmears and the inch of cream cheese between the doughy circles suggests the default CC is a spread not a schmear. Toasted perfectly and wrapped in foil my first NYC bagel is everything I wanted and more. I think Deaks even drank a Snapple!

We navigate the confusing trail to find the 7 subway in Grand Central Station and ride the couple of stops to Hudson Yards. This area feels very new. It wasn't here in 2018 for Jules first visit. The Edge building has a "Tony Stark" observatory near it's peak and it's ground floor is full of luxury brand stores. It's surrounded by modern artworks and fire skate spots. Deaks can't understand why these spots haven't been skated. There are security guards on patrol around the public spaces to deter.

The Highline starts nearby and we've been handed a perfect day to explore these downtown neighbourhoods. The cold wind is gone and the sun is shining. Forecasted 19 degrees hits mid twenties easy and it's t-shirt weather.

The Highline is awesome! A reclaimed elevated trainline that originally transported goods up and down Manhattan now allows you to walk from Hudson Yards to Chelsea unimpeded by traffic. It's planted out with deciduous trees and shrubs and is such a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle below. It's peppered with artwork and spaces for reflection, allowing you to pause and observe the city as if removed from it. Deaks also found a really cool distressed leather flatcap. Until it's owner came back looking for it only to find it on the head of a bald Australian dad. A little bit awkward but he was just glad to have it back.

Another recent addition (not here in 2019) to NYC is Little Island. A man made island reclaiming a little piece of the Hudson. Another inspired use of space in a crowded city and a pleasant break from the concrete jungle.

We check out Chelsea Markets and a vintage/flea market within. An industrial building reinvigorated with eateries and cool shops. The Sephora search continues and we have the inside word on when this particular blush may be restocked. Tuesdays and Thursday nights are the restocking nights. There is still hope!

We enjoy the sunshine while we plan our next move. I notice on my google map search that Carrie Bradshaw SITC building is nearby and when I look closer I can see that so is the Friends apartment building. We walk the streets of Chelsea and West Village and while it looks like a filmset, it feels authentical New York and local. These rows of brown brick terraces with black painted iron fencing are gorgeous. The sesame street stoops add to the familiar nostalgic vibe.

After visiting Screaming Mimi - a vintage clothes shop - I think we're in Greenwich Village now. It's a little edgier. You can tell buy the ratio of pot dispensaries to square kms. The streets are vibrant with activity in perfect spring weather. We stumble upon a trio of musicians playing in the street. A guitarist, a violinist and a banjoist play outside Music Inn. Jules and the kids go inside and play the instruments downstairs and I sit on an orange plastic traffic bollard and enjoy them jamming in the sunshine. It's called the Music Inn, but sadly there is no bar/beer in the basement of the shop. Just a ridiculous collection and instruments and drums that the cool owner is more than happy for people to try out. Such a cool find.

Jules recognises Carrie Bradshaw's place and Milla identifies Monica, Chandler and Joey's building. Deaks and I aren't sure and can't see where Ross's building or the fire escape is. The number of others posing for photos suggests we're in the right spot.

Just down the road is the Stonewall Monument. It marks the scene of NYPD beating up LGBTIQ+ people 50 years ago. It's interesting to think how far society has come in my lifetime.

The walk to Soho takes us through the diverse streets of downtown New York. Fenced off basketball courts full of action, Google Offices, double parked cars and beeping horns. Noisy school yards hidden behind story high brick walls. Pre-schoolers out for a walk. Tethered together in florescent harnesses, Milla comments that they look like tiny tradies. A guy in a 3 piece suit, riding a single speed bike helmetless and navigating single handedly with his mobile phone in the other. Old black men chatting in the sun. White women walking their dogs in their active wear.

Soho is a lot of designer brand shops in gorgeous old buildings.

Little Italy seems to be merging with Chinatown. Chinatown is so chinese that it disorientates you and makes you feel like you're in Asia.

We've walked about 13 kms at this stage and I'm getting hangry! We settle on Upside Pizza and enjoy a NY slice and a drink. The 6.2% 560ml IPA packs a punch and no sooner are we back in the hotel and I'm asleep. The pizza is even better than Librettos.

The early pizza dinner affords us the opportunity to have dessert tonight. Jules finds a highly rated ice-cream place nearbyish. Van Leeuwens maybe? We walk from Murray Hill down 3rd avenue and are surprised by the activity along this strip on a Tuesday night. We queue for 15 minutes and the ice creams are worth it. We try the special flavours - Glass Onion tastes like French Onion Soup, not a fam - and settle on a variety of cookie dough flavours, dark chocolate, PB, raw sugar, Cherry.

The real new york experience occurs on our walk there. There's maintenance work taking place on 3rd Avenue and this thick New York accent is yelling profanities at one of the workers. "Fuck You you fat douche! You don't fucking scare me! I need more of that pipe! I ask for more pipe and you're a fucking smart arse. Fuck You Motherfucker!" It was loud and stopped us in our tracks. It looked like someone upset at the maintenance crew blocking his shopfront. It turns out they are workmates and it must be how the angry guy talks. The fat douche didn't seem to fussed. Just another day at work on the streets of NYC.

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