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Published: October 17th 2014
I noted in the Helena blog that the drive west from Helena on U.S. 12 has a 6-7 mile stretch that goes through 6362’ McDonald Pass. The first two trips through the pass t’was just me and the Dodge Ram but not this time – this time, I had the Pilgrim in tow as I headed for Missoula MT! Initially, there was a lot of downshifting and upshifting by the transmission; but after about two miles the Ram and my accelerator foot got dancin’ to the same fiddler at a whopping 35 mph! Slow-moving vehicle lanes on steep grades are a good thing! I just turned on the four-ways and let her purr – well, growl actually might be more accurate. There was no new snow to report at the summit, and that was just fine by me!
The drive to Ekstrom's Stage Station in Clinton MT (about 20 miles east of Missoula) was just over a hundred miles and took about an hour and a half. The RV park is about a half mile from I-90 so the road noise was undetectable inside the trailer. I probably should have played with Google Earth and learned that the launch point
for my “out of Missoula” activities were all west of Missoula. Oh well, it’s only refined black gold! Fortunately, most of the people who work in Missoula live in Missoula (they really don’t have a lot of other reasonable options) so rush hour traffic on the Interstate is not an issue.
Imagine, from a population of between 30 and 60 million bison roaming wildly throughout North America, their wholesale slaughter to subdue the defiant Native Americans, among other things, reduced their numbers to a low of about 100 wild animals in the late 1800's. On May 23, 1908, President Theodore Roosevelt signed legislation authorizing funds to purchase suitable land for the conservation of bison. It was the first time Congress appropriated tax dollars to buy land specifically to conserve wildlife. Since then, the National Bison Range in Dixon MT has played an important role in the successful recovery of these magnificent animals.
The original herd of bison released in 1909 was purchased with private money raised by the American Bison Society and then donated to the Refuge. Today, 350-500 bison call this 29.38 square mile tract home. The Refuge is essentially a small, low-rolling mountain with elevations that
“Yes, Deer.”
National Bison Range - Dixon MTvary from 2,585 feet to 4,885 feet at High Point on Red Sleep Mountain. In addition to its herds of bison, the National Bison Range supports populations of Rocky Mountain elk, mule deer, white-tailed deer, pronghorn antelope, and bighorn sheep as well as coyotes, mountain lions, bears, bobcats and over 200 species of birds.
The 19 mile scenic Red Sleep Mountain Drive is not for the impatient (speed limit 25 mph), for vehicles over 30 feet long or for those pulling a trailer of any length; but really is quite impressive. Other shorter drives are available that DO allow longer vehicles and trailers. Hiking opportunities are limited (no trail is longer than one mile) and wandering away from your vehicle (except on the established trails) is prohibited – NO PETTING THE BISON!
On Friday, September 19, 2014 I paid a visit. On my first trip through the refuge, I saw bison (duh), deer and antelope. I was hoping to hear some bugling elk or see a predator. No such luck. My stomach demanded attention so a trip into Charlo eliminated the pangs, and I returned to the refuge. On my second trip through, I saw more of the
“Take Me Home!”
Montana Vietnam Veterans Memorial - Missoula MT same but the critters must have felt sorry for the repeater and moved closer to the road for his benefit. I’m glad I returned! The National Bison Range is highly recommended, but plan at least two hours for the Red Sleep Mountain Drive.
Although the sun was quickly dropping toward the western horizon, I decided I had enough time to stop in Missoula and visit the Montana Vietnam Veterans Memorial. Man, I’m sure glad I did! The Memorial Rose Garden was established in 1947 as a memorial to WWII casualties. In 1988, a larger than life sized bronze sculpture of a winged male figure lifting a young soldier from the earth was installed to honor Vietnam veterans. Seven bronze plaques list the names of 313 Montanans who paid the ultimate price in Vietnam. A marble plaque at the base of the sculpture reads, "Together we flew to battle, Hearts and blades pounding, Sharing the fear and pain...Parted yet together, We faced the unknown. You Death, I the future." – Tom Crosser, 1988.
Not only am I glad I stopped to visit the memorial (I would have anyway because that’s an integral part of The Great Adventure), I am
glad I stopped late in the day as the sunlight played directly on the sculpture almost as if a spotlight on a stage. The memorial is very unique among the Vietnam memorials I have seen. I’ll recommend a stop with a high level of prejudice admitted.
Saturday was a crummy day so I played Mr. Domestic, and Sundays in the fall are spelled with capital letters – NFL and NASCAR; however, Monday, September 22, 2014 found me out for another scenic drive. This one would be a long one! I started by going west on I-90 until I turned north on MT 135 near Saint Regis MT. That stretch of MT 135 is one beautiful piece of roadway. When I hit MT 200, I turned west until I turned north on MT 56. At its junction with U.S. 2, I turned east until I reached Kalispell where I turned south on U.S. 93 and my return to Missoula.
The drive was a pleasant mix of narrow canyons with swift flowing rivers, high plains with cattle munching on grasslands, roadside lakes of varying sizes and pine forests. As part of a relatively common program for “scenic drive” day, I
No Sheep Today!
Missoula To Saint Regis To Libby To Kalispell Loop had purchased a Subway to consume at some opportune moment along the way. As the urge to eat was mounting, I happened upon a sign indicating a pullover spot adjacent to some high cliffs along MT 200. I stopped and found the location is a Mountain Sheep Viewing Area. A bench and informational placards have been installed. I had a leisurely lunch and looked for sheep to no avail (the best sheep viewing times are from November 1 to April 15); however, my digestive system was thrilled!
After turning east on U.S. Highway 2, I saw signage for Kootenai Falls. The landmark is on the Kootenai River between Libby and Troy. Since this is the kind of unplanned opportunity that epitomizes The Great Adventure, I stopped. The falls area is a sacred site to the Kootenai Indians, who once called this area home, and is where tribal members communed with spiritual forces. The main falls is 30 feet high and can be viewed from a "swinging bridge" that originally was constructed by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) during the Great Depression.
The falls is accessed via a dirt foot trail from the parking area next to the highway.
A Fellow Tourist Volunteered
Missoula To Saint Regis To Libby To Kalispell Loop The trail winds through the trees and offers obstructed views of the river before reaching a pedestrian bridge over a pair of railroad tracks and finally winds down to the swinging bridge. The swinging bridge crosses the river and, while crossing the swinging bridge may not be for everyone, the best views of the Kootenai River and Kootenai Falls are from the swinging bridge. The attraction definitely is worth a stop of 30-60 minutes when travelling U.S. 2, but I would be hard pressed to advise anybody it is a “must see” attraction.
I had to stop in Libby MT – the self-proclaimed “City of Eagles” – for a photo op of the eagle sculpture fixin’ to pluck the mayor right off main street! Pretty cool (and an interesting looking town I’ll have to add to the “revisit on the northern swing” list). After leaving Libby, it seemed that the closer I got to Kalispell the closer I got to Yuppieville! Being one of the gateways to Glacier National Park probably provides that elitist mentality to the geographical transferees and seasonal residents. Because of its remoteness, I know lots of folks who have never been to Glacier. The types
“Okay, So Where’s The Mayor?”
Missoula To Saint Regis To Libby To Kalispell Loop of shopping opportunities and eateries and the names ascribed to those venues by the “up-and-coming” entrepreneurs just gave me the impression of the Jones trying to outdo the Smiths. I think everyone knows of what I refer, and those who know me will testify that, “Yuppie ain’t Larry’s glass of beer.”
Rand McNally indicates U.S. 93 along Flathead Lake is a scenic route, and it probably was in the day. Now, however, I found nothing scenic about the drive. The traffic was outrageous (admittedly it was late afternoon when I drove through the area), few opportunities exist to capture a view or a photograph void of “cottages on the lake” and few places have been created to pull off the road to allow one to “drive while driving and look while looking.” Overall, I had a very nice day and will remember to add Kalispell to my “drive through at the legal speed limit” list for the northern sweep.
I spent a week in Missoula and could have spent much less. Even a stop at the visitor center didn’t add points of interest to my list. I spent one day exchanging merchandise in the big box stores (of
which I had been deprived in Butte MT and Helena MT) and did some catching up on things domestic. That aside, I could have made a one-hour stop in Missoula at the Montana Vietnam Veterans Memorial and a four-hour stop at the National Bison Range in Dixon and could have had my “to do” list completed. Let’s be honest. Not every town is a “you have to go see it” kind of town!
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