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Published: September 8th 2012
The Observatory Is On The Left
Fort Knox State Historic Site and Penobscot Narrows Observatory - Prospect MEI suppose many would contend that a visit to Maine is incomplete without a visit to Acadia National Park in Bar Harbor. I know that was my sentiment when planning this journey. I had been exposed to so many glowing reports by so many people from such diverse backgrounds that had visited from so many different locales. All these people from hither and yon cannot all be wrong. Have you ever set your expectations far above the reality of the situation? I try to avoid prejudging good or bad but have fallen victim to that curse in the case of Acadia. My expectations were much greater than the park could deliver. I must say the weather did not cooperate either.
On my drive from Appleton ME on Tuesday August 7, 2012, I passed the Fort Knox State Historic Site and the adjacent Penobscot Narrows Observatory in Prospect, ME. The observatory is integrated into the bridge over the Penobscot River and, at 420 feet, is the tallest public bridge observatory in the world. Indeed, it looks mighty impressive from a scenic vista near the bridge; however, I couldn’t visualize the parking lot arrangement at the attraction itself and don’t like to
journey into unknown territory with the Pilgrim in tow so I continued on to Bar Harbor. I’ll keep that on my “when I return list.”
Irene, my GPS, directed me onto Mount Desert Island and through Bar Harbor village to the address I had given her for Narrows Too Camping Resort on Bar Harbor Road in BAR HARBOR ME; however, that location showcased nothing but trees. I found a side road, pulled off and called the campground. I had gone WAY past the RV park – it is located on the mainland before the bridge to the island. My second attempt, using the verbal instructions, got me to Narrows Too Camping Resort on Bar Harbor Road in TRENTON ME without any problems. Some campgrounds advertise (or at least imply) a location in well-known Town A when the actual physical address is in lesser-known Town B. My fault, I failed to investigate thoroughly! Reminder noted.
The RV park staff had assembled a comprehensive visitor packet and pointed out the Island Explorer bus stop. I had read about the Island Explorer busses that were initiated to help reduce traffic congestion and pollution on the island. Before I continue, I need
to tip the hat to L.L. Bean, whose corporate headquarters is in Freeport ME, for being a major funding source for the Island Explorer and other projects in and around Acadia National Park. Thanks – (and those who know me well will verify I don’t say thanks to corporate America very often). Also, I need to acknowledge part of Acadia National Park is not on Mount Desert Island, but I didn’t visit that area so all of my comments reference the Mount Desert Island portion of the park. Hmmm, any other lawyerese, fine print stuff I need to address before I continue?
Before I arrived, I had decided that the Island Explorer would be a good, safe way to see the park and “leave the driving to us.” The primary Island Explorer route tourists use to visit Acadia is the Park Loop Road. This 27 mile road begins (if there is such a thing as a beginning point of a loop) at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center and connects many of the Park's most popular destinations. Construction of the Park Loop Road began in 1922 and continued through the 1950's. It was partially financed by John D. Rockefeller, Jr.
who also was the father of the Carriage Roads. Thanks, John! Another Island Explorer route services campgrounds and yet another stops at hotels. Both of these routes stop at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center before continuing on to the Village Green in downtown Bar Harbor. The genesis for all bus routes except Park Loop Road is Village Green.
Almost every day I was in Bar Harbor, the forecast called for rain to varying degrees – on a “good” day, there was a 20-30 percent chance of rain. I guess I need to fess up; I truly have become a fair-weather tourist! It appeared I was not alone. On the three days I visited the NPS Hulls Cove Visitor Center, the lines to speak with a ranger were long and slow-moving such that I abandoned the idea. One day I drove the island areas outside the park boundaries, visited the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse, drove up Cadillac Mountain (where Island Explorer does not go) and stopped in some of the other villages on Mount Desert Island to have a look around.
While I was exploring Bass Harbor, I spotted an unofficial-looking sign proclaiming “Lighthouse” with an arrow. I supposed
the locals had become weary of the oft-asked question and “took the signage into their own hands!” Since I depend on the locals as a reliable source of information, I took a right and discovered – tah-dah, Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse. The small parking lot was near capacity, and I followed “the flock” to a trail that led downhill toward the coastline. I found a handful of photo hounds clambering over significant boulders looking much more intently at their footing than at any as-yet-unseen lighthouse. Finally, I got my first glimpse of the lighthouse and then, yup, negotiated my way to a photographic vantage point.
I watched some who had been bolder than I work their way back to more stable turf; and, admittedly somewhat disappointed, I walked back to the parking lot. There I encountered another “flock” going the opposite direction. I followed. Baaaaaah! A paved path led down to what appeared to be the keeper’s cottage. Still following the “flock,” I found my supposition to be correct and found, hidden by trees and/or the dwelling, the (drum roll, please) Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse! The lighthouse is somewhat picturesque from my initial vantage point, but risking life and
limb to obtain a good view seemed foolhardy. Since neither the lighthouse nor the keeper’s quarters was open to the public, the attraction can’t make my “A List;” however, if you drive “The Loop,” you might as well stop and take a look.
A sign led me to a parking lot for Thunder Hole. The feature is a unique rock formation which funnels a wave into a chasm that abruptly terminates the wave and creates “thunder” with the dissipated energy. Personally, the wave action on the adjoining rocky coastline was more picturesque than and at least as entertaining as Thunder Hole itself.
Next, I planned a route to get me to Cadillac Mountain. Had the weather been splendid such that I had prepared for hiking Acadia, I doubt I would have elected to make the hike up Cadillac Mountain anyway – that’s a big hill folks! Kidding aside, there are several trails to access the 1530-foot summit, and I’m sure the rangers could have put me on one that complimented my skill level. The day of my visit was one of the best days of my week-long stay, but the haze-shrouded views from the summit made the vistas
quite unimpressive. That’s not the mountain’s fault. There is a short trail around the summit with some kiosks along the way, and I managed to get a very long range photo of Egg Rock Lighthouse. I suppose if there is one “must see” in Acadia, it is Cadillac Mountain.
On yet another mostly decent day, I rode all the Island Explorer buses (except the one servicing the hotels) that depart from Village Green – relax, sightsee and leave the driving to us. One driver told me there is a trail between Sand Beach and Otter Point. That trail would pass by Thunder Hole and would provide some impressive photo ops of the rocky coastline and the accompanying wave action. Overall, I learned very little about Mount Desert Island that I had not already learned from my earlier drive – except I can pass along to others that the Island Explorer is a tool to get from Point A to Point B and is not a sightseeing opportunity.
One afternoon and evening, I walked around the quaint village of Bar Harbor. There is no doubt that Bar Harbor is a tourist trap; however, it just seemed more blue collar
than Kennebunkport. Although I never found a parking space in Kennebunkport so I could “look ‘em in the eye,” my impression comes from sometimes-not-so brief pauses at the innumerable pedestrian crosswalks. In Bar Harbor (Remember when the GPS took me and the Pilgrim through the village en route to the RV Park?), people would wave in appreciation for stopping for them; whereas, in Kennebunkport the pedestrians crossed the street with their nose held high and appeared to be above and beyond a “Thank You” to someone not driving (at least) a Lexus. Besides all that, I found my New Hampshire hat pin in Bar Harbor! I like this town. LOL
“Well, okay self, so if the weather isn’t going let you hike Acadia like you had planned without the fear of getting wet (remember, I’m a fair weather tourist), what ya gonna do after a hard day of riding the Island Explorer?”
“I’ve got it, Larry - let’s cook lobster!” It happened that the lobsters were molting during my visit to Maine and lobster prices were CHEAP! Soft shell or new shell lobsters don’t ship well and are only marketed to locals. There are several lobster pounds along
Bar Harbor Road where one can purchase, depending on the product, live or fresh seafood or can have a seafood choice cooked for on-site dining at picnic tables or to take home. The origins of the term lobster pound vary but essentially it implies a lobster wholesaler that may or may not offer ancillary services (cooking) or products (clams, scallops, mussels, fish, etc.).
Since one of the lobster pounds along Bar Harbor Road was right across from the RV park, I walked across the road to get some dinner. I can do this; I’ve had lessons on the Internet! I got my $5.24, 1-1/4 pound critter and headed back to the Pilgrim. In talking to several New Englanders, I’ve had mixed reviews on new shell lobster. Since there is room inside the new shell for the lobster to grow, some argue there is less meat. By percent of volume, that is true; however, lobster is sold by the pound. Proponents contend that the meat is sweeter and more tender (I can’t tell the difference – if I had both side by side, perhaps I could) AND that the shell can be broken without the need for crackers. Now, THAT
is an advantage!
The lobster cooking went really well except I felt slighted slightly (hmmm, or would that be slightly slighted) on the portion, so the next time I went across the street it was for a 1-1/2 pounder. “That portion was just right,” said Larrylocks. One night I had the lobster pound folks fry me some clams. The clams along the east coast make clam strips from the west and Midwest shamefully inadequate. Another night I got a cup of the lobster stew I had missed out on at the lobster festival in Rockland ME. That lobster stew was pretty tasty and didn’t strike me as something I couldn’t manage, so I looked up a few recipes on the ole superhighway and “let ‘er rip!” It sure was good, but my stomach rocked and rolled to Elvis music all night long. I’m not sure if there was too much butter, too much heavy cream or too much lobster stew. I’m gonna tweak the recipe, try it with shrimp (for after I leave the land of the low-priced, soft-shell lobster) and hope to get some elevator music playing In the Gastric Ampitheater at bedtime.
As you can see,
More Distinctive Than A House Number
Driving Around Mount Desert Island ME no matter where I went during my week at Acadia National Park, shelter from (the threat of) rain was always nearby. I got to spend some quality time exploring my 8’x5’ kitchen and got to relax and “leave the driving to someone else” on, what turned out to be, a non-sightseeing excursion around Mount Desert Island. I drove to some places the Island Explorer wouldn’t take me and learned of the trail between Sand Beach and Otter Point. In spite of the weather, I enjoyed the week and would like to return to walk some of the trails and the carriage roads. Although totally tourist-oriented, Bar Harbor seems to attract a different, more mainstream breed of tourist than other “more sophisticated” destinations. Next, it’s on up the coast to Eastport ME and the coastal border between America and Canada.
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