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Published: September 16th 2016
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Sept 15, 2016
So today marks 2 weeks since we left Port Dover, and the day we leave the Great Lakes behind.
We are about 10 miles away from Chicago, so in an hour or so, we will enter the Illinois River which we will travel on for about 300 miles until we join with the Mississippi. Since I have only been on Abigail on the lakes, I have no idea what to expect it to be like on the rivers. But it should be calmer cruising.
Since our last blog, we have travelled 800 miles. On Sunday, Sept 11, we arrived in Kewaunee Wisconsin. With a small craft advisory issued for Monday, and threats of up to 30 mile/hour gusts and 9 foot waves, we decided to stay put for a couple days.
The town of Kewaunee is small; and coming from Tillsonburg and Port Dover, that says small. But we found a waterfront restaurant with an old dock that the owners were happy to let us tie up to in exchange for eating our dinners there. Seemed like a better choice compared to paying $50-80 for a marina slip. Sure the marinas usually have showers
Kewaunee
Docked at a waterside restaurant
and wifi, but that is one expensive shower!
We spent Monday walking (guess we can still walk on “the hard”), sampling some great locally caught salmon, and watching the waves build just outside the harbour. By Tuesday, the weather had calmed down, and so we left Kewaunee, steering south to Port Washington where we stopped for fuel and anchored for the night.
After another 12 hour day, we arrived last night in Evanston, just north of Chicago, where we tied up for the night. This morning we were up at 6:00am and, as I write this, the Chicago skyline is looming closer.
Yesterday, we had our first “accident” on board. Before any of you panic…the only casualties were a few cracked eggs. Apparently, I am no more adept than Humpty Dumpty’s men, and so we ended up having to cook them up. While I have become pretty good at cooking on the move, a particularly large wave sent us rocking, and everything on the counter sliding. Fortunately I caught the alcohol stove, but alas, the eggs hit the floor. Lesson learned; today I am waiting until calmer waters to cook up breakfast!
Sept 16, 2016
Well, we have left the Great Lakes behind and are now in the river system on the first leg of a 1300 mile journey down to the Gulf of Mexico.
Yesterday was an exciting day for me; many new experiences. Can’t say it was as thrilling for Lukus, being a seasoned boater, but I think he finds my excitement entertaining.
Entering the Chicago lock, the first of many to come, we emerged into the heart of downtown Chicago. After weeks of travelling in open waters to the sounds of waves, wind and birds, it was strangely surreal to be moving down the river enveloped by cacophony (Lukus asked what that meant, but I can’t think of a better word,…might need to look it up) of honks, sirens and construction while surrounded by majestic, looming skyscrapers. Certainly makes you feel a little smaller. Not in a negative way, but in an odd, almost covert way. Like you are a little mouse; able to watch the spectacle of city life from a completely different and removed perspective. Again, it made me appreciate the slowed pace of our life. As a new friend quoted yesterday “as the saying goes: the only
thing that does not belong on a boat is a schedule”. Apparently, along with all the terminology, there are a number of boat sayings that I will be learning along the way (I have never been good at learning new languages)!
After passing through Chicago, we entered a shipping canal that eventually joins the Illinois River. At first, in comparison to the motion of the lakes, the waves bouncing you around and the spray crashing over the bow, the serene peacefulness and lazy flow of the river is, well, almost boring. Especially when each side of you is littered with barges, gravel pits and industrial sites.
But now that we joined the actual river, and been passing through small towns, it has promised a much more scenic and engaging route. A few hours south of Chicago, we passed through our second lock. Compared to the Chicago lock, which only moves a few feet, this one dropped us about 50 feet in elevation. I was enthralled with the entire process, entering the lock, tying up and then slowly descending into a concrete pit as the water drained away below us. By the time the gates are ready to open,
Evanston
Right beside the Wimette Harbor Marina in Evanston was this Baha'i Temple; beautiful piece of architecture it feels like you are hidden away in a dark cavern with water dripping off the walls and the damp smell of moss.
Last night we tied to a wall in Joliet, Illinois. While passing through the locks, we met with 4 other boats, who all tied up there as well. A lovely couple, Alice and Wayne, along with their canine Lily and Gabby, who were already docked, welcomed us. They helped us tie up and then invited us in for a few drinks and “soppers” (not sure if this is actually a “boat” term, but apparently it means something to “sop up” the booze in your stomach).
Today, we are continuing south down the river in the company of a few of the boats we met yesterday. In boat world, the boat and the people on board almost become symbiotic – so we are “Abigail". With the pressure of weather effects now dissipated, we are adjusting to a leisurely pace, so who knows where we will end up tonight.
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Sheri Knott
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Travel tip or two
Hi Emy - sounds like you are having a great time and the big rivers are amazing. While we have not cruised the big U.S. rivers, we have camped alongside enough of them to know that they are truly majestic (unless you end up with a downpour and flooding!). For a minute reading your blog, I thought your alcohol "stash" slipped on the country - whew - thank heavens it was only a stove!!! If you buy the cheap no-slip counter/cupboard stuff you can keep your counter things from sliding off. And, it is cheap so you can just throw away a piece when it becomes too dirty to use again. Love the blog!