Craters of the Moon National Monument, Idaho

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Entry 30: Craters of the Moon National Monument, Idaho
Saturday, August 28 - Sunday, August 29, 2010

From Surreal Drive to Just Surreal…

After waking up in a Umatilla National Forest in Eastern Oregon and driving 300-400 miles, Sophie the dog and I were again tired and cranky. However, at around 4 p.m., we had finally traveled far enough off the beaten path, and were rewarded with my (umm…and Sophie’s, too) first visit to the Craters of the Moon National Monument, its landscape of dark black, brown and red volcanic dominate the landscape.
Established in 1924 by President Calvin Coolidge referred to the area as a “weird and scenic landscape, particular to itself.” Small in size, the approx. 60 mile long and 20-30 mile area is certainly an area particular to itself. Approximately 15,000 years ago, lava welled up from the ground, producing slight hills that began exploding and sending lava rivers, which then proceeded to cover the relatively flat area in Southeastern Idaho.

The visitors center is on the left, directly off of Hwy 20, and the entrance fee of (I think) $8.00 entitles visitors to drive the 7 miles that showcase its finest features. Pulling up to the gate with Sophie, I flashed my National Parks Pass to enter for free. Knowing that I was arriving late in the day, specifically to camp for the night, I tentatively asked if there were any spots still available, and was surprised to learn that, even on a Saturday in late summer, the campground was only 20% full. This may be, in part, to the fact of Craters of the Moon’s proximity to two more popular parks, Grand Teton and Yellowstone, which lie only approximately 100 miles to the east; Craters of the Moon probably serves as a “springboard” location.

I found an excellent spot of the approximately 65-spot campground, facing southeast into miles and miles of black, rugged landscape. There was only one RV nearby, two spots down (when given a choice between placing my tent next to an RV or another tent, I’ll choose the RV, as the occupants, in general, spend most of their time indoors). The first thing that I noticed was the strong wind, which lifted my Indiana Jones Fedora hat off my head and sent it rolling down the loop road—hadn’t I just learned my “wind/hat lesson” at Mt. St. Helens? I chased it down, and chatted on the phone with Jennifer, having finally gained a solid cell-phone reception area (although, I had to stay in one particular area on the road).

Battling the constant 20+ mile an hour wind, I surveyed the site, which offered a picnic table, a grill (no wooden fires allowed, to discourage any burning of the few sticks around), and 2-foot walls of lava rock, having been constructed as to allow one to place a tent in a small area that offered at least a little respite from the wind (which was also loud in volume—further isolating me from reality in my tired state).
I was looking forward to spending a couple of hours going around the loop drive the next day before leaving, and skipped dinner in order to sit in the tent, for once, while it was still light outside. I was very road weary by this point, and the wind and blowing dust just outside was not as inviting as my two sleeping pads, the computer, Sophie, and the book Dishwasher. Heavy rocks, in addition to “guying” all the tent’s rainfly lines, helped to prevent the tent’s fabric from violently and loudly flap about in the wind. Even so, the walls were constantly bending in, sometimes hitting me in the back of the head. In addition, everything began to get covered in a thin grit, the result of constant breaking down of the 1000s of rocks. My face, the tent, Sophie, the computer, etc. all became dirty and dusty from the small lava dust.

I felt as if I went to bed early, although it was probably around 11 p.m. I remember sleeping very well, finding the wind soothing, knowing that I was comfortably wrapped in the sleeping bag. Luckily, I woke at dawn long enough to witness the dawn, just before sunrise. The light slowly crept over the bizarre landscape, which was now eerily quiet, the wind having ceased for a short time.

I officially got up at 9 a.m. (probably, once again—no watch), and spent two hours making coffee and breakfast, refilling the water containers, repacking the truck, etc. I packed the tent and drove the short distance back to the Visitors Center (and noting the time at 11 a.m.), where I chatted with a Ranger who gave me permission to plug the computer into an outlet on the outside of the building to charge while Sophie and I drove the loop road. As previously stated, I’m never too concerned about leaving this expensive, personal and easy-to-steal property in locations of our National Parks and Monuments, as, for the most part, I feel a kinship with other visitors, particularly at this out-of-the-way place.

Computer charging, Sophie and went through the entrance again (the Ranger said, “I remember you guys from yesterday,” which was probably a comment on my “mountain man” truck appearance). Although it seemed like a lot of vehicles were in the Visitors Center lot, I was delighted to find myself virtually alone on the road, with no one driving in front of or behind me. This allowed a nice, leisurely drive, stopping the truck to photograph rocks or the scant vegetation (with no dirt/minerals, it’s somewhat hard for plants to survive. There are some short, stubby pine trees, roots sometimes growing atop the ground, that dot the landscape).

Because the features of the park are, in most cases, very close to the various small parking lots off the loop road, combined with the cool temperatures (thanks in part by the returning winds), I was able to leave Sophie the dog in the truck while I make quick walks up the 2-foot wide blacktop paths to a variety of natural features: Splatter Cones, lave tubes, and caves.

In the past, when I’ve thought of caves, I think of a 15-foot opening at the base of a hill or mountain. Not so in this case, and true to the excellent “explore on your own, if you wish” attitude of the National Parks system, I found myself staring at a small hole located 15 feet below the path. It was Boy Scout Cave, which was formed by a huge lava tube (lava flows through, hardening on the outside while continuing to allow liquid lava to flow through—I liken it to a straw). Boy Scott Cave extends 500 feet in two different directions, and I was thrilled taking my flashlight down into yet another surreal situation. I spent 30 minutes in two caves (the other being Beauty Cave, and its 25-ft. high ceiling by 60-ft. wide walls offering an excellent, bizarre and solitary experience).

Thoroughly relaxed, I completed the loop by going back to the Visitors Center, dropping in a fiver into the donation box for the use of the electricity, checking the time (the hour was late—4 p.m., but, hey, when will I ever be at the Craters of the Moon National Monument again?), and washing my hands, which were gritty from the cave-diving.

I wished that I had an additional day, as although this park is small (there are a number of forest service roads that head down into the “non-settled” areas of the park, but I was heading east, and a drive such as this would be an all-day affair, to be sure), the features it offers surely would be worth another day—perhaps spending walking the road as opposed to driving it.

I bid the Craters of the Moon goodbye, and Sophie and I hit Hwy 20 east to Idaho Falls…

Thanks for reading the blog! Chicago Dave and Sophie

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Photos

Craters of the Moon
Astronauts visited in 1969 to study volcanic geology.

Craters of the Moon Trail
Trail to Splatter Cone

Creaters of the Moon Sunset 2
Craters Sunset..

Craters of the Moon Cave Trail 2
Much of Landscape Looks Like This

Craters of the Moon Loop Drive 12
Love the Understated Signs