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Published: March 12th 2012
Surprised? Well, it’s true. Larry is back on the road again. Almost all of 2011 was spent attending to appointments with the VA for one reason or another – from a general check-up physical to a stubborn kidney stone to PTSD counseling. I’m sure glad that is over – especially the kidney stone! I started a blog about St. Augustine FL some time ago and thought I had finished it; however, only when I was preparing to write this blog did I discover the errors in my ways. I had completed the text but never added the pictures and published the finished product. Oops!&%$#&. I’ll have everything you’ll ever need or want to know about St. Augustine FL to you soon as well as a summary blog about other miscellaneous excursions around central Florida. LOL
The first sojourn in Larry’s 2012 adventure is historic Savannah GA. Yes, Larry’s 2012 adventure. Kay returned to New Mexico in October 2011. For now at least, Larry is travelling alone; however, it is possible that we might reunite as travelling companions in the future. Since it was quite foggy in Sanford FL on the morning of Tuesday, February 28, 2012, I got a later
A View From The Carriage
Historic District - Savannah GAthan desired start. Quite out of character for me but to make up some lost windshield time, I travelled via Interstates 4, 95 and 16 to get to the Sunshine RV Park in Hollywood GA. The park is about 5 miles from downtown Savannah and is very small, very quiet and very convenient to I-16.
General James Oglethorpe and the 120 passengers of the good ship "Anne" landed on a high bluff along the Savannah River in February 1733. He named the 13th and final American colony "Georgia" after England's King George II, and Savannah became its first city. Oglethorpe laid out Savannah, known as America's first planned city, in a series of grids that intertwined with shady public squares and parks that served as town meeting places and centers of business. Savannah had 24 original squares, and 22 squares are still in existence today. During the American Revolution, the British held Savannah from 1778 until 1782. After the war, Savannah flourished.
Pre-Civil War Savannah was said by some to be the most picturesque city in America. During the Civil War, the sea blockades imposed by President Lincoln caused the economy to crumble. The city remained in Confederate
hands until Union General Sherman entered in mid-December after burning Atlanta and everything else in his path on his "March to the Sea." Upon entering Savannah, Sherman was said to be so impressed by its beauty that he could not destroy it. On December 22, 1864, he sent a famous telegram to President Abraham Lincoln, offering the city as a Christmas present.
On Wednesday morning, I set out for the Visitor Center located in the old red-brick passenger terminal of the Central of Georgia Railroad complex. The building is also home to the Chamber of Commerce and the Savannah History Museum; and, conveniently, the tourist trolleys use the center as a starting point. After getting my questions answered by the hostess at the visitor center, I headed for the trolley ticket booth. I ended up with the tour package even though there were a couple of attractions I would not have purchased individually. Essentially, the deep discount on the package gave me those less desirable attractions as a bonus. As an aside, a former trolley “conductor” related that all the trolley companies have discounted tickets for most attractions and buying the package or even a trolley ticket is not
required. Now there’s some dollars to save in the future.
After getting a 60-90 minute Savannah “Introduction and Orientation Tour” on the trolley, I went to the Savannah History Museum for a course in Savannah 101. The museum is nice and well done; however, there is probably a bit too much local detail for the general public. Much of the content is contained on detailed placards next to a particular artifact and seems to memorialize the well-heeled of Savannah’s past. If you are a native familiar with the names of historic notables and if you plan for a 3-4 hour visit, I’m sure your effort will be well-rewarded. I began by reading a good portion of the material but sped the pace near the end because I was getting hungry!
After lunch at the in-house diner, I went next door to the Georgia State Railroad Museum. I ranked this museum high on my list because the leading lady is (half) a roundhouse with a turntable and a variety of rolling stock in many of the roundhouse bays. The original 250-foot diameter roundhouse was completed in 1855 and was used to house steam locomotives overnight, to refuel tenders and
Tracks Lead From The Turntable To Each Bay
Georgia State Railroad Museum - Savannah GA to perform light maintenance and repairs. In 1926 half of the building was demolished and the remaining half was redesigned and expanded to accommodate larger, more powerful steam locomotives. The turntable was extended 5 feet on each end to its current length of 85 feet. At least three workers were on duty on the day of my visit, and I had the opportunity to chat briefly with one of them who told me the turntable is powered by two five-horsepower electric motors. Large steam engines (excluding the tenders) weighed in at over 500,000 pounds. Amazing!
In addition to the roundhouse and turntable, there is a machine shop, blacksmith shop, storehouse, lumber shed, carpenter shop and paint shop to name a few. Period machinery is found throughout. The self-guided brochure relates interesting facts and placards provide information about the artifacts on display. A few areas are closed for restoration and some work areas are barricaded for safety reasons but there is plenty for all but the most fickle to see and do for 2-3 hours. I was somewhat disappointed that the model train layout was not operating on the day of my visit. Admittedly, it was a Wednesday in late
Undergoing Restoration
Georgia State Railroad Museum - Savannah GA February – not the height of the tourist season. The roundhouse is more like a living history museum than a traditional museum. The resounding clang of steel striking steel and the smell of oil impregnated in the wood blocks of the roundhouse floor add a dimension not found in most museums. The Georgia State Railroad Museum is highly recommended for anyone who has even one iota of interest in railroad history or operations.
On the way back to the Visitor Center parking lot from the roundhouse museum, I stopped at the Siege of Savannah monument. The British had captured Savannah in early 1778. Maj. Gen. Benjamin Lincoln realized that the loss of the southern port was a key blow to the revolution and, with naval assistance from the French, set out to regain control of Savannah on September 16, 1779. On October 9, a major assault against the British failed. During the attack; 800 American, French, Irish, Swedish and Haitian combatants were killed or wounded while only 55 Loyalists suffered a like fate. Polish nobleman Kazimierz Pułaski (fighting on the American side) was mortally wounded. The colonists withdrew on October 18, 1779, and the siege ended. The British remained
Hallowed Ground
Battle of Savannah Memorial - Savannah GA in control of Savannah until July 1782, near the end of the Revolutionary War.
As many battlefield monuments go, the monument itself is unimpressive and hardly dignifies the events which occurred at the site. In defense of Savannah’s ancestors, the battle was conducted on prime real estate – close to the vibrant, commercial riverfront – and historical preservation was not quite yet in vogue. There is a monument located in Franklin Square in Savannah honoring the Haitian soldiers of African descent who joined with the Colonial forces, and Kazimierz Pułaski is immortalized with a statue near Freedom Plaza in Washington DC. That being said, the existing monument provides merely a cursory overview of the events that occurred on this hallowed ground. I would suggest reading about the battle before visiting the battle site -
http://www.uswars.net/revolutionary-war-battles/790916-savannah/ has a great overview.
I have learned to classify the daily weather into three broad categories – no rain, nothing but rain and it may rain so stay close to shelter. Thursday morning, March 1, presented as the latter - a dreary day with clouds and rain threatening. Since my other planned activities in Savannah were away from shelter for the most part,
Well Restored Lighthouse Compound
Tybee Island Lighthouse - Tybee GA I decided to use this unpredictable day to visit points east. My first stop was the Tybee Island Lighthouse. In previous blogs, I have raved about the Ponce Inlet Lighthouse and the St. Augustine Lighthouse in Florida. I guess I can’t stop raving! The Tybee Island Lighthouse, yet again, stands apart from the other two. The focus here is more oriented to family life in a lighthouse through the eyes of a keepers daughter. The head keeper’s cottage is extremely well furnished with original and period furnishings on both floors. The first assistant keeper’s cottage houses administrative offices, and the second assistant keeper’s cottage offers a fifteen minute video about the lighthouse.
The lighthouse was built in 1773 and had wooden stairs on the interior. In 1861, the Confederate forces burned the stairs to prevent its use by the Union in the event of capture. I am finding that numerous “strategic demolitions” were conducted by the both sides during the Civil War. When the lighthouse was rebuilt in 1867, the replacement steps were made of steel and the height of the lighthouse was increased by 85 feet to its current height of 145 feet. One hundred seventy-eight steps lead
Looking Down At The Tybee Museum
Tybee Island Lighthouse - Tybee GA you to the catwalk around the exterior. The light is emitted from one of two 1000-watt bulbs through a 1
st order Fresnel lens that can be seen 18 miles out to sea. Only one bulb is operational at a time – if one burns out, the second bulb illuminates automatically. I’ve said it twice before, and I’ll say it again – this lighthouse is a “must see” if you’re in the area – particularly if you haven’t seen a real nice lighthouse.
Across the street from the lighthouse is the Tybee Island Museum. Both facilities are owned by the Tybee Island Historical Society and one nominal fee gets you access to both facilities. The museum is housed in one of the artillery battery magazines that protected Savannah from the Revolutionary War through WWI. After WWI, the facility became a training site for deep sea divers. Interesting – hmmm, yes. A “must see” – hmmm, you’ve already paid, you’re right across the street – if you have the time, why not?
My return trip to Savannah on US 80 took me right past the entrance to Fort Pulaski National Monument on Cockspur Island. The need to defend the river
Smooth-Bore Cannon At The Ready
Fort Pulaski National Monument - Savannah GA approaches to Savannah became apparent, and the construction of Fort Pulaski began in 1829. It took 18 years to complete at a cost of one million dollars. The bastion belonged to what was known as “the third system of coastal fortifications” constructed along the Atlantic Coast in the first half of the nineteenth century. These more structurally durable forts (nearly all of the 30-plus that were built still exist today) were developed as a response to more powerful weapons of the era. Many considered it invincible - against the smooth-bore cannon of the day.
South Carolina seceded from the Union on December 20, 1860. Two weeks later, Georgia’s governor ordered the state militia to seize Fort Pulaski. After Georgia seceded on January 19, 1861, the state transferred Fort Pulaski to the Confederate States of America (CSA). By the first of May, eleven southern states had seceded and were at war with the Union. Before the end of summer, President Lincoln ordered the U.S. Navy to blockade Southern ports. In November, Union forces engaged the CSA on several fronts which resulted in Union control of Hilton Head Island SC. That presence intimidated the CSA forces at Tybee Island, and they
Scars Left By Union Cannon
Fort Pulaski National Monument - Savannah GA retreated to the safety of Fort Pulaski. Unbeknownst to those forces, that evacuation gave the Union the only beachhead from which an artillery assault on Fort Pulaski could be launched.
Retreat to Fort Pulaski would have worked against smooth-bore cannon; however, the Union forces that entered Tybee Island had ten new, experimental rifled cannon which had greater range and more accuracy than their smooth-bore predecessors. By noon of the second day, one of the 7-1/2 foot thick walls of the fortress had been demolished and the shells were threatening the main powder magazine. Realizing the hopelessness of the situation and fearing for the safety of his men, CSA commander Col. Charles H. Olmstead surrendered only 30 hours after the bombardment of Fort Pulaski began. Being a National Monument, Fort Pulaski is well maintained and well documented. The kiosks and placards are informational and pamphlets are distributed for future reference. As always, the rangers are top notch. If you haven’t seen a fort of this type, Fort Pulaski is highly recommended.
When the day began, I knew that accessibility to the Cockspur Island Lighthouse was difficult at best. I did not know that Fort Pulaski was on Cockspur Island
Standing Sentry Alone
Cockspur Island Lighthouse - Savannah GA nor did I know that the lighthouse was a part of Fort Pulaski National Monument. The first lighthouse built on the southeastern tip of the island was destroyed by a hurricane in 1854. The current 46 foot tower was completed in 1856. During the Civil War, the light was extinguished by Confederate forces to hinder Union blockade efforts. Even though the Cockspur Island Lighthouse lay directly under the trajectory of the bombardment of Fort Pulaski, the tower suffered only minor damage. At the end of the Civil War the light was re-lit. Over time the north channel of the Savannah River became the preferred route for shipping, and the Cockspur Island Lighthouse was extinguished on June 1, 1909.
The National Park Service provides a well-maintained, level .65 mile long trail to a vantage point about 100 yards from the lighthouse. The proximity to the lighthouse and condition of the last stretch will vary with the tide. Even though the last section of the trail might be muddy, there is still a decent view of the lighthouse from that part of the trail unaffected by the tide. Is the view worth the walk? The walk is worth it by itself;
Much Smaller Than Fort Pulaski
Fort Jackson National National Historic Site - Savannah GA however, this lighthouse makes my “C list.” That would change if I had a kayak or wore my muddin’ clothes and could make it all the way to the tower! I said at the opening of this day’s entry that the day had presented as an “it may rain so stay close to shelter” day. Look who didn’t pay attention! As I was photographing the lighthouse, a moderate, steady rain began and continued until shortly after I reached my truck. Fortunately, much of the trail is protected by trees.
One more stop before calling it a day. Again, a few miles up US 80 toward Savannah lay the entrance to Old Fort Jackson. This National Historic Landmark has been operated by the Coastal Heritage Society since 1976. It also operates the Savannah Museum and the Roundhouse Railroad Museum. At the site of the fort, the Savannah River is only 1-200 yards wide and all river traffic going to Savannah must pass by the location. Construction on Fort Jackson began in 1808 under authority of an order issued by President Thomas Jefferson to build a national defense system. Several military units occupied the fort from 1808 until the Civil War
ended, but the fort saw little or no combat. After the Civil War, the fort was abandoned by the army and fell into disrepair. Fort Jackson is nice, but it doesn’t compare to Fort Pulaski. It is smaller, has less historical significance and, let’s face it, has less frosting on the cake than Fort Pulaski. Now, for a good night’s sleep!
Saturday I hopped on the trolley and set out to see some of the attractions that were included in the package I purchased. Savannah is the birthplace and was the home of Juliette Gordon Low – founder of the Girl Scouts. Savannah is replete with things Girl Scout. The Andrew Low House (her father-in-law) and the Girl Scouts’ First Headquarters offer tours. A trolley stop is directly in front of the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace National Historic Landmark. The house is nice, but an old house with old furniture is… well, an old house with old furniture. The docent made the cost of admission worth the price. I can’t speak to the quality of all the docents, but mine was excellent. Too bad interior pictures are not allowed. I understand no flash photography but no photography – “Gimme
a break!” I guess they sell more souvenir books this way.
I got back on the trolley for a ride to the Owens-Thomas House. This house was designed with cisterns above the ceilings of each story and was the first house in Savannah with plumbing, albeit gravity fed piped cistern water. Hmmm – I wonder if those were lead pipes. Whoever set the price for the tour of the Owen-Thomas House must have been drinking leaded water. For as good as the docent was at the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace, this docent was just as bad. The web site doesn’t even mention that this was the first house with plumbing in Savannah. The state tourism book does. As I said before, “The house is nice, but an old house with old furniture is… well, an old house with old furniture.” I didn’t even get a souvenir pamphlet, and, of course, no photography. Perhaps some student of architecture might disagree with me, but even “one of the finest examples of English Regency architecture in America” does not justify the $20.00 admission fee. (The Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace fee is $8.00.)
Back on the trolley and off to the riverfront.
I opted for a burger at Boar's Head Grill & Tavern (very good food) and then strolled along the ballast stone street and the riverfront walkway until it was time for my “package” sightseeing cruise on the Savannah River. The cruise was nice as was the boat, and it was interesting to see the port activity and the city from a different perspective. The captain’s story telling ability was top-notch, and the information he conveyed was excellent. Overall, the cruise was worth the $20 fee. If you have the time, take it. If not, oh well. I’ll have to put the riverboat cruise on my “B” list. One interesting fact I’d like to relate – Cargo ships and tankers are getting bigger and bigger; so much so that the Savannah River needs to be dredged to accommodate the draft of these larger vessels. Because the river is the boundary between Georgia and South Carolina, the dredging must have the approval of both states. Since South Carolina wants to direct these mega-ships to its own autonomous port of Charleston, it has yet to give consent to the dredging initiative. Alas, politics!
On Sunday and Monday I took advantage of a
Unquestionably Ornate
Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist - Savannah GA variety of transportation modes – horse-drawn carriage, river ferry shuttle, trolley and foot. The only attraction I visited was the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. If you have never seen a beautiful, ornate cathedral, put it on your “A” list. If you have, the trolley stops right in front of the church and the next trolley will be coming in 20 minutes or less so, why not? The carriage ride was the remaining ticket in my “package” and provided a unique view of the downtown area. It only makes my “B” list. The river ferry shuttle is provided as a complimentary service by the City of Savannah to get luxury hotel guests to the shopping district. It’s free so, why not? I had a nice conversation with a couple from Maine. The trolley is one of the best deals in Savannah. Your ticket provides you with unlimited on and off privileges AND gets you a voucher for free parking at the Visitor Center lot. Adding a day to your original ticket is $10+change. I don’t know, but I’ll bet that all-day parking is close to $10! Just show your boarding pass to the ticket agent, pay the dinero for
Enjoying The Square
Historic District - Savannah GA an additional day and whammo!
I have heard a lot of good things about Savannah – it’s all true! The squares are charming parks with about 4-5 short blocks between the squares. The historic district is clean, and I felt safe no matter where I walked. By design, I took several different modes of transportation so I could get the story of Savannah through several different pairs of glasses. Much of the information I heard numerous times; but each narrator adds his or her own spin to the yarn or injects this or that factoid you might not have heard before. Savannah is great. I plan to come back when the flowers are in bloom for a longer stay.
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John Burton
non-member comment
Nice pic's.
Hi; Larry Glad to see that you are on the road again. I enjoy the blog's, keep up the good work. We will be in Colorado this summer and then back to Sun City, Az. next winter. Until later, John