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The Museum Starts Outside
Submarine Force Museum - Groton CTI woke up an hour or so earlier than usual for no apparent reason, performed my normal moving day routine and got an earlier start than usual. The drive was about eighty miles from Plymouth CT to the Seaport Campground in Old Mystic CT. After experiencing a blowout on the Pilgrim on the last leg of my journey, I decided to take the Interstates while pulling the trailer – less severe curves and less severe inclines equate to less wear and tear on the brakes and the tires. For an Interstate, my drive actually was quite pretty. Most of the adjacent terrain was tree-covered. I arrived at the campground about noon and was set up by 1 PM. By 1:30, it was drizzling and by 3 PM I’d say there had been about half an inch of rain. I’m glad I got an early vs. late start. Everything was uneventful except my spot was a little soggy in places. No hill for an old (mountain) goat!
Rain was in the forecast for Wednesday – a good day for housekeeping duties! By Thursday morning when I left for the Nautilus duplex in Groton CT, my rain gauge measured 1.65 inches. I
Submarine Model Cutaway
Submarine Force Museum - Groton CT say duplex (How many are required to be a complex?) because there are two attractions – the Historic Ship Nautilus and the Submarine Force Library & Museum. Before I even got to the museum, there were three vintage submarines adjacent to the entrance. Barely into the museum, I found the submariners’ credo, “There are only two types of ships… submarines and targets.” I love it!
The Submarine Force Museum had pretty much the kinds of artifacts and replicas one would expect to find in a quality submarine museum - cutaway models of various types and classes of submarines, information about early submarines such as Bushnell's Turtle and the H L Hunley (which I had visited in North Charleston SC), numerous torpedoes, a 51' long Polaris missile, salvage and escape systems and displays honoring US submarines and crews lost at sea and submariners who were awarded the Medal of Honor. There are some interactive displays and several multimedia presentations. Very well done.
The Historic Ship Nautilus tour is self-guided out of necessity due to the obviously cramped quarters but is very well-done. Each visitor is provided a small handset, much like a cordless phone, and the appropriate information is
played on the demand of each visitor. About half way through my tour of the Nautilus, I heard an announcement that the submarine USS San Juan was leaving port. Of course, I scrambled topside and took a couple of photos. I was told submarine arrivals and departures are uncommon, and usually the crews are afforded quite the fanfare. Atop the vessel, there appeared to be some routine activity and I found nothing on the Internet about the event other than the sub had a new commanding officer. My take on the departure was that the new CO had her out for a test drive.
Also, I was told that at 1300 hours there would be a graduation ceremony for a group that had completed submariner school. It was almost 1230 hours by the time I finished my tour of the Nautilus so I decided to stick around for some photos of the opening ceremony. While idling away some time, I struck up a conversation with a couple from Appleton WS whose son was in the graduating class. My understanding is that recruits attend a basic submariner school after boot camp and then attend a specialist school and return for
Plenty Of Stone In New England
Stonington Harbor Lighthouse & Museum - Stonington CT additional submariner schooling. After this ceremony, the graduates will report for duty as a submarine crew member but must prove competence before being certified and awarded full-fledged submariner status.
After leaving the Nautilus duplex, I made my way to the Stonington Harbor Lighthouse & Museum in Stonington CT. The Stonington Historical Society maintains two properties – the Old Lighthouse Museum and the Nathaniel B. Palmer House, home of the Stonington seafarer credited with discovering Antarctica – and “is dedicated to illuminating the more than 350 years of history of the Town of Stonington.” Again from the society’s web site: “We offer here records of the lives and fortunes of colonial settlers, blockade runners, ship captains, whale hunters, patriots, explorers, artists, and writers. We recall the struggles between Native Americans and Europeans, the repulse of British forces in 1775 and 1814, the exploration of distant oceans by Stonington seafarers. We see Stonington's era as a polyglot seaport, a community of English, Portuguese, Irish, Italians, Germans, and African Americans.”
The lighthouse itself is a quaint, interesting attraction in its own right; and the attached museum provided quite a pleasant surprise. Although the admission fee to one site provides access to
Ivory Pagoda
Stonington Harbor Lighthouse & Museum - Stonington CT both locations, I didn’t make it to the Palmer House; but, based on the lighthouse museum, mission accomplished. Whaleboat oarlocks; a swift (used to hold newly spun yarn) made of whale bone, whale teeth and tortoise shell; tools used to harvest ice; four Cantonese bowls still in the original protective wrapping - just as they would have arrived c. 1850; an ivory pagoda; turn-of-the-century ice skates; a doctor’s cane wherein vials of medicine were kept; navigational insturments; Revolutionary War artifacts; a rocket of the type responsible for “the rocket’s red glare;” and many other artifacts are on display. This combined lighthouse/museum attraction should be a “must see” for those visiting the area.
Somewhere I learned that the U.S. Coast Guard Academy hosted a Coast Guard museum and that a scheduled, guided tour of the academy was available on Friday at 1:00 PM. My Friday morning inquiry at the academy gate regarding the tour starting location was met with gracious bewilderment; but instructions to the museum were provided, and an invitation to walk or drive through any areas not marked as restricted was offered. No problem, I had some back-ups planned for extra time in the afternoon. I made my
Andrea Doria Lifering
U.S. Coast Guard Academy Museum - New London CT way to the museum where I found six links of chain on display just outside the entrance to the building housing the museum. I had learned earlier in my travels about a chain that had been stretched across the Hudson River from West Point NY to Constitution Island in 1778 to prevent navigation of the river by the British fleet. Inside, the building lobby contained models of various types of modern Coast Guard ships and a display commemorating the history and contributions of women in maritime service.
The Coast Guard reached its current configuration as five federal agencies evolved into a single unit over a span of nearly 150 years. In 1915, the Revenue Cutter Service (1790) merged with the Life-Saving Service (1878) to form the first Coast Guard. The Lighthouse Service (1789) was absorbed in 1939. The Steamboat Service (1838) and the Bureau of Navigation (1884), which had been combined in 1932, were added to the organization in 1946. This myriad of services makes the Coast Guard a "jack of all trades" among the US military. The museum was extremely well done, enjoyable and informative; and follows a timeline through its evolution. Instead of hosting a plethora of
A Diamond In The Rough
Nathan Hale Schoolhouse - New London CT artifacts, the museum houses a small sample of unique and interesting relics and provides a comprehensive introduction to the five entities than comprise today’s Coast Guard. This is a must see attraction for sea captains, lifeguards, lighthouse nerds and history buffs and is a high-caliber add-on for almost everyone.
My first fill-in was the Shaw Mansion in New London CT. The door was unlocked and I heard the voices of what sounded like a school tour coming from the second story. As I was moseying about and biding my time, the group descended and I learned the attraction did not open to the general public for another couple of hours. With this free preview, I decided not to wait for the official opening to purchase a ticket and instead drove to back-up number two - the Nathan Hale Schoolhouse. This landmark is located along the downtown New London waterfront and stands out quite noticeably from its neighbors of concrete, steel and asphalt. I walked in through the unlocked door and, again, heard voices accompanied by some clanging and banging emanating from the second story. I had just completed wandering around the small, one-room structure when a young man came
Colonial Dwelling
Near The Waterfront of Mystic CT down the stairs. I learned that the docent hadn’t showed up and that he had no answers to my questions. I walked across the street to get a Subway for lunch and, on the return walk to my truck, saw a “Not Open” sign on the door. I can’t imagine how either attraction could make anybody’s “A list.”
For the remainder of the afternoon, I drove and walked around Mystic and Old Mystic. Mystic Seaport is pricy, in my opinion, but definitely looks interesting. I decided I would visit only if the weather cooperated on Monday (my only remaining open day in New London) when I could maximize my tourism dollar and give the attraction the time it appears to deserve. Friday was perfect for a stroll along the waterfront and the shady streets that are home to many interesting colonial era structures. The day turned out to be a nice day in spite of some bad information and a no-show at the school house. I have learned to avoid a spike in my blood pressure when the literature and/or web site doesn’t coincide with reality. Almost all of the literature I have conveys 2011 information, and 75-90% of
the web sites I rechecked a few weeks before my arrival still reflected the 2011 prices and schedules. I guess I would ask any administrators who might read my words to understand that the travelling public wants to visit your facility, to pay your admission fee or to make a donation to keep your doors open, to buy your souvenirs and, most importantly, to justify your paycheck or country club mantra. Plan upcoming alterations at the close of a season and post those changes early so we can plan using timely information. Thank you and venting completed - almost!
I have never seen a water-powered sawmill and put the Ledyard Water-Powered Up-Down Sawmill on my “A List.” Since the attraction is only open on Saturdays from 1-4 PM and since there was an enticing scenic route through the area north of the RV park, I had been hoping for a chamber of commerce day. I got it and how! Saturday, May 19, 2012 was beautiful. I found a small country church with graveyard in North Stonington CT that was about as New England as one could expect to find. I found the Old Plainfield Cemetery in Plainfield CT complete
The Sawmill Adds To The Park’s Charm
Ledyard Water-Powered Up-Down Sawmill – Ledyard CT with Revolutionary War veterans – one who died almost two hundred years ago on February 6, 1814. I found vestiges of the industrial revolution along requisite river banks of the era. I found Café Mom ‘N Pop where I could feast on a good hearty breakfast before my stop at the sawmill.
The only address I had for the attraction was Sawmill Park. I didn’t foresee this as a problem for two reasons. First, let’s face it, Lenyard CT is not Hartford or Boston. I expected there to be directional signs from the downtown area. That failing, I expected the park name or the attraction name to be in my GPS menu. That failing, I expected a local to provide me with directions. On my third attempt at getting directions from a local, I tasted sweet success. I guess I would ask any administrators who might read my words to understand that the travelling public wants to visit your facility, yada, yada, yada. Please provide the physical address (not a PO Box or the mailing address – I don’t want to ship myself) so we can reach your facility using 21
st century technology – i.e., GPS. “Turn right on
Next Victim – The Old-Fashioned Way
Ledyard Water-Powered Up-Down Sawmill – Ledyard CT the first road past the Johnson farm,” doesn’t work for us. Thank you and the venting now is complete - promise! PS During my visit, I was given a newly published brochure with a web site that does have the GPS coordinates.
Sawmill Park itself is a little treasure for which the community should be proud. There’s everything a municipal park should have including a fishing pond that also provides the uninterrupted water supply for the sawmill. There are so many qualifiers in the brochure I must quote to avoid plagiarism: “The Ledyard Sawmill is unique – it is the only operating water-powered sash sawmill in the country on its original site using the original 19
th century mill equipment.” There has been a sawmill at this location on Lee’s Brook for over 200 years. The Mains were the last private owners of the mill and operated it until 1938 when it was damaged by a hurricane. After that, the building was abandoned until residents realized the importance of saving the sawmill, and the town of Ledyard bought the property from Harry Main in 1966. Restoration of the pond and mill continued until the mill was opened to the public
Avery Point Lighthouse
University of Connecticut at Avery Point – Willimantic CT on Saturday, April 19, 1975 as part of Ledyard’s bicentennial celebration.
An operational blacksmith shop, recreating the one that was destroyed by the 1938 hurricane, is on site and staffed for demonstrations. The sawmill is manned by volunteers who obviously have put a lot of work into restoring this historic gem and continue their commitment by donating Saturday afternoons to educate and entertain the public. All of the volunteers were cordial and knowledgeable, and the operation of the mill and the equipment was well explained. This attraction is perhaps a once in a lifetime opportunity for many and belongs on the “A List” of most folks.
The Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum and the Windham Textile & History Museum, both in Willimantic CT, are open only on Sundays but neither opens until 10:00 AM. I got an early start and headed for the campus of the University of Connecticut at Avery Point in Groton CT – home of the Avery Point Lighthouse. I knew the lighthouse was not open for climbing but took the opportunity for a short walk around the shoreline campus and for some photos of the exterior of the lighthouse. New London Harbor Lighthouse is visible
Round House
Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum - Willimantic CT across the Thames River in New London. The lighthouse is nothing extraordinary, but the granite buildings of the waterfront campus make the location an excellent venue for a morning stroll.
The drive to Willimantic passed through some of the most rural countryside I have seen in several weeks. For almost a hundred years Willimantic was a major railroad hub in southern New England with over fifty trains passing through every day of its prime. The Columbia Junction Roundhouse was constructed in 1892 by the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad and mergers, failures and reorganizations led to a change in ownership a number of times. Sometime between 1924 and 1934, the roundhouse was destroyed when the walls were bulldozed into the inspection pits. The site remained dormant for over sixty years until the local chapter of the National Railway Historical Society was formed in 1991. Chapter members cleared invasive trees and brush, hauled debris from the roundhouse pits and replaced hundreds of yards or railroad ties and track. Reconstruction of the roundhouse on the original foundation began in 2000. Today work continues on the museum, but there are almost a dozen structures on the museum grounds. Some have
Riding The Rails, Errr The Turntable
Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum - Willimantic CT been brought from other locations and others are replicas or reproductions.
The Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum had just opened when I arrived. I was told “the boys” were making up a train for a group train ride and that I could join them for the 11:00 AM departure if I was interested. The diesel locomotive was warming up in the roundhouse. I wandered through the displays and looked at the rolling stock before watching the engine make its way on to the turntable. The turntable was moved so the engine could exit onto the appropriate set of tracks. Very interesting – I have never before seen a roundhouse turntable in operation. After the car was connected to the engine and the passengers were embarked, the trip began. The ride was about 1-1/2 miles each direction but for $3.00…. The Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum remains a work in progress, and it appears it will be some time before making the “must see” list of anyone other than hard-core railroad enthusiasts. That said, it definitely is a great, economical way to spend a couple of fill-in hours.
Next, I headed for the Windham Textile & History Museum also in Willimantic.
Various Textile Artifacts
Windham Textile & History Museum - Willimantic CT While waiting for the guided tour, I watched an interesting video about the New England garment industry and walked through the museum. A temporary exhibit to commemorate the 150
th anniversary of the Civil War highlighted the role of cotton in Connecticut before and during the war, the abolitionists and the anti-abolitionists, notable abolitionists from Connecticut and the Underground Railroad in Connecticut. The permanent exhibit area has vintage sewing machines, spools, bobbins and other garment-related artifacts. The guided tour took the group into other areas of the former American Thread Company building where numerous pieces of commercial thread-making machines were on display and into an area where depictions of life as a textile worker and that of a textile supervisor were visually compared. Like the railroad museum, the Windham Textile & History Museum should not make the “A List” of the average traveler but is interesting and worthy of a visit if extra time is available while visiting the area.
The New London/Groton area of Connecticut has a lot of history and has many interesting, well-preserved historic districts. There is something here to interest almost everybody, but there is no Kennedy Space Center, Plymouth Rock or Mount Vernon to make
a visit mandatory. Like most areas, interest and life experiences change everything. If you never have seen a submarine, see the Nautilus. Etc., etc., etc. I had a great time and really enjoyed the week I spent in the area.
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