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Published: August 30th 2017
No. 480
K-23 Class Consolidation No. 480, built 1925, ready to set off.Durango has a train. I like trains. A lot. In fact so much so that I drove over 3000 kilometers just to go on this train. Ken has been a great sport about this fact as well and I consider our trip so far to be a big success. Ken echoes this sentiment but he did however at the hotel yesterday night say to me “Tyler, I want you to understand that you’ve done nothing wrong whatsoever but I’m surprised I haven’t killed you.” We laughed and laughed and then I snuck out to go sleep in the car.
Ken checking in here! I figured it was my turn to write something rather than just adding witty commentary during the evening and scintillating banter during the day. For those who don’t know, I tend to be a bit more of an introvert. I like my personal space and quiet time. During the preparation for this trip I was a bit apprehensive because Tyler and I would be literally spending 24/7 together for 11 days straight. Which is why, after spending the first 5 days together I told Tyler how surprised I was that I
Above the gorge
The railway is blasted into a sheer rock face above the San Juan River hadn’t snapped and murdered him. Tyler is of course fine, but for unrelated reasons I’m going to do the rest of today’s post. 😉
If I could summarize today in three words it would be: TRAINS, TRAINS, TRAINS!! Tyler likes trains a lot, which is why he secretly drove ~3200km to ride a train. Up until now I was only vaguely aware this was the purpose of the trip. After today, I was very aware. The day started at 6am. I am on vacation. I try not to wake up that early for work if I can help it (I may be at my desk, but that doesn’t mean I’m awake). Anyways, the day started at 6am so a hearty breakfast could be consumed at the Durango Diner (amazing classic American breakfast food). Tyler and I managed to order the exact same thing, eggs sunnyside up with a side of bacon and home-made hashbrowns. These hashbrowns will probably go on record as some of the best shredded hashbrowns I have ever had. Tyler found them “acceptable”. Everything was secondary to trains today.
We arrived at the station at quarter after seven to catch a train departing at 8am.
San Juan River
The train follows the San Juan river the majority of the way Tyler was adamant we not miss the train. For those not familiar with the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Rail Road (D&SNGRR), members of the public purchase tickets either in an enclosed car or an open car for a ~45 mile trip (4h) from Durango to Silverton. The train itself is a coal fired steam engine (which is apparently green due to carbon offsets, though I allege otherwise based on the smoke produced). A passenger may then either take a 1.5h bus ride home or return on the train. Now I must confess I was not looking forward to riding the train 4h to Silverton and then 4h back to Durango. 8h just seemed like a bit too much, but when I found out the purpose of our trip, I realized I was going to have to suck it up for Tyler’s sake. Tyler was adamant on this point.
Our starting tickets were in the open air car on the West side of the train. This car was 3 back from the engine. When we got on, the conductors warned us about embers from the engine and offered to sell us some safety glasses. Tyler laughed at this, for
Engineer at heart
I think I want to expand my collection beyond Mustangs... his sunglasses would provide ample protection. He had to blink the first ember out of his eye before we left the station. The West side of the train is the decidedly less scenic view. The route is cut into the mountainside and follows a river, with the river being on the East side of the train for the majority of the trip, including the section where the train is high above the river gorge. Those on the West see a lot of trees and rock walls until they start staring enviously to the East. When we finally did cross over the river, putting the river on our side of the train, we rejoiced at “being in control” of the scenery and getting to enjoy the river views.
Even on the less scenic side, Tyler and I stood for the entire 4h ride drinking in the sights, sounds and smells of the train ride. I am surprised at how much I enjoyed myself, and how quickly the time seemed to pass. There is just something about old machinery, elegantly designed and operating with its steady rhythm that seems to hypnotize me. I must be a mechanical engineer.
Now I
Silverton
Panorama of Silverton don’t want to get on a rant here (Tyler has deemed this is, in fact, a rant), but I need to address people’s behaviour during tourist excursions and at various points of interest. If you are on an excursion it is perfectly reasonable to take photographs. If you are a professional or even amateur photographer it is perfectly reasonable to take photographs. What is not bloody reasonable is to take a non-stop set of photographs for the entire train ride. That is a movie, and no one wants to see that or your nine hundred ninety-nine thousand, nine hundred and ninety-nine photographs. Put down the damn phones and cameras and enjoy the scenery. Drink in the beauty of the experience, the gorgeous scenery, the wind in your face, cinder in your eyes, smell of burning coal, rattle and roll of the train cars, and the simple delight on small children’s faces as you wave when the train passes. There were a number of people guilty of over-photographing our ride, not the least of which was a husband and wife who both were glued to their phones taking pictures of the scenery the entire trip. When they get divorced (as I
Christ of the Mines
"This shrine erected in honor of Christ of the Mines by the people of Silverton to ask God's blessing on the mining industry of the San Juans 1958-1959" assume they will for not spending any quality time together) they will at least have his and hers photos of the trip to split. That is perhaps bitter sounding, but I firmly believe the value of the experience is in enjoying the moment, not documenting every inch of it. End of the (not) rant. Tyler says: “Right you are Ken, right you are.”
The train stops in Silverton literally in the main street where the tracks just end and the gravel street continues. Tyler and I wandered all over Silverton, stopping at souvenir train shops, hiking to a mining memorial overlooking the town, and photographing abandoned railway gear. Before we knew it, it was time to get back on the train for Durango. Also before I knew it, I managed to pick up a delightful sunburn. I type this now, bright red, as Tyler tries to poke my sunburn.
On the way back we were in an open car further from the engine (no embers, yay!) and on the East side of the train. We got to enjoy all the scenery we had missed on the way up, and rode into Durango like conquering heroes. I’m not going
Adult Beverage Time
Beer... on a train? Sounds like a good time. to lie, we stood like little school boys and enjoyed the entire 4h ride home with the wind in our faces. We did of course enjoy some locally brewed adult beverages while passing through the mountains, because nothing says classy like drinks on an open air steam train.
If nothing else, I will say that while I am not as big a train fan as Tyler, the ride was certainly worth the trip. I would encourage anyone to give it a try, and if I’m in the area I would certainly go again. Tyler has confessed that now that he’s ridden the D&SNGRR, he’s not quite sure what to do with himself. I have one suggestion, something closer to home. I kid, I kid, we both had a blast. The day was finished with a lovely meal at Fired-Up Pizza, an excellent joint which is basically a smaller Famoso’s for those familiar with the Calgary/Edmonton locations.
Now, there is always something that has to bring up the rear. On the train, it’s the caboose. For this road trip blog, it’s the RV game! Today’s winners were “Anal Lance” and “Anal Fun Seeker.” Classic.
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