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Published: September 19th 2010
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Bishop Pass
11,900 feet I headed west out of Bishop in near 100 degree August heat. The neighborhoods and irrigated fields yielded to sage brush and open desert as Route 168 rose up the slope of the Sierras. And the higher I rose, the cooler it got. By the time I reached the end of the road at South Lake, I was at 9,800 feet enjoying a warm comfortable summer day.
My plan was to hike up to 11,900 foot Bishop Pass. I could hike this as a two-day trip, camping at Bishop Lake just under the pass, or hike a little further and camp in Dusy Basin on the other side. But today had to be a day hike, and so I geared myself up for a 2,100 foot climb in five miles. Not too bad actually, even considering the five miles back. But the reward would be a comfortable car and well deserved dinner.
The Bishop Pass trailhead is located at the southern end of the South Lake Picnic Area, just after the lake’s only boat ramp. There were plenty of places to park. The trail roughly follows the path of the South Fork of Bishop Creek and the chain of
Crescent Moon
Between the Inconsolable Range and Mt. Agassiz lakes it cascades into while tumbling down from the mountain peaks.
The path is a mix of shady pine canopy and fully exposed sun. In the open areas, the views expand monumentally. This is a hike straight into the heart of the Sierras after all. South Lake is bordered on the west by Thompson Ridge and to the south by Mts. Thompson, Gilbert and Hurd Peak, all exceeding 12,000 feet. The clear sound of a waterfall echoed from behind a peninsula along the lake’s south western end, although the cataract cannot be seen.
Further up a series of forested switchbacks lie the high mountain meadows around Long Lake and multi-colored Chocolate Peak. Scattered fishermen lined the shores of Long Lake and I could finally see the rugged face of Mt. Goode and the shoulder of Bishop Pass itself. The chisled profile of 13,000 foot Mt. Goode is the epitome of how a mountain should look. It is a Gary Cooper, a Clint Eastwood of mountains.
Upstream from Long Lake, Bishop Creek flows along a beautiful green wetland, an extended meadow, up to the shore of Spearhead Lake. The trail skirts a stairway of smaller and larger waterfalls
Picture Puzzle Peak
East of Bishop Pass connecting to a small basin of lakes called Timberline Tarns (the finest lakes of the trail, imo). At this level the trail edges closer to the massive looming wall of the Inconsolable Range of mountains to the east, and beyond them, 13,800 foot Mt. Agassiz which rises directly above my goal, Bishop Pass.
By the time I reached 11,100 foot Saddlerock Lake, I was crossing the timber line and entering a far more exposed and barren landscape. At this elevation the lakes and meadows are fewer, and thus somehow provide even more of a respite against the landscape of switchbacks and rocky talus which await the final stretch to The Pass. The trail’s rocky climb upward from Bishop Lake comes with a signed warning of periodic and unpredictable rockslide hazards. “You are advised not to stop until reaching the next sign post,” it states. Not so conveniently, this high elevation dash up the steep final 700 foot slope to the pass is perhaps where frequent stops and breathers are most needed.
Well that’s just tough.
I trudged up the jagged slope as best I could and was shortly rewarded with the deep breathing, hard heart beat, screaming
Wildflowers
Before Mt. Agassiz calfs and thighs accomplishment of my day’s goal. I reached the pass itself and found a handy rock to sit upon to eat my lunch of Gorp, Odwalla, Fig Newtons, and hard boiled eggs. The pass of course provides spectacular Sierra views, Mt. Agassiz to the east, Mts. Giraud, Columbine and Isosceles Peak across the Dusy Basin to the South, and the myriad spires of Picture Puzzle Peak back up the north.
And now for the slog back. Ok, well not really a slog, as this is still among the most beautiful and spectacular walks in the world. But the afternoon, the elevation, and the exertion had set in and I still have five or so downhill miles to go. I have found that you really have to watch your step on the way down. If you allow you mind to settle on the car and the shower, if you don’t keep your mind on the trail you’ve got a recipe for a turned ankle or a hyper extended knee. It’s kind of like the last ski run of the day if you allow your mind to settle in the lodge before you reach the bottom.
I’ll have
Isosceles and Columbine
Peaks west of Bishop Pass to also add that I timed my hike somewhat poorly. I shouldn’t have had dusk falling with still two miles of my route down yet to go. This time of evening brought some beautiful views of the lakes and valleys that I would not have had if I walked only in full sunlight. But the dusk on the final stretch made roots and rocks hard to see on the trail, and I could have done without that risk. Lesson learned.
Still, the car and the drive back to motel, dinner, and beer were all well deserved when the day was done. Bishop Pass had served me well, and this taste of the High Sierra was much appreciated. I would like to try it again with a focus on camping in Dusy Basin and perhaps a longer trek out via a different pass. That will be enjoyable planning for future.
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