Cody to Tucson via the Mokee Dugway

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So out from Cody and the Rodeo and a dry day to Vernal. More stunning scenary that changes frequently with tiered rock outcrops all at thirty degrees to the horizon, looking like huge slices of cake, lakes and resevoirs, canyons and gorges of terracotta rock. Vernal is another one horse town but the local council obviously decided to spend the entire budget on flowers. A properly hot (38.5C) day as we arrived at Vernal and I was first in the pool at the Dinosaur Inn! Neighbouring rooms were occupied by four guys coming back from the BMW Beartooth Rally. Three were brothers who all lived in different states. Two old air cooled and a couple of vaguely newer bikes. Very nice chaps.

Wandered down the road to another (!) local bar with a pool table. Food was average and beer was nice, but a quiet night was had and back to the room, for a good night sleep with 390 miles done.

On to Moab. In the previously mention autobiography by Neil Peart he visited Moab several times. It was a clear favourite of his and so seemed to promise much. However before even getting there we spent much of the day on the US 191. The sandstone and red rock formations are difficult to comprehend and more difficult to capture in photographs. It becomes easy to understand why the Indians and southern state Americans believe in God (or a creator) as it is hard to believe the shapes, layers swirls and geometric patterns in the rocks are just a natural formation. Colorado and Utah seem to have middle class enclaves and Moab is definitely one. Similar to, but bigger than, Big Fork it has cafe's, bars and restaurants a step above most small towns, and is clearly catering to a tourist market as well as locals. It was apparently a hippy destination in the 60's and now survivies (well) on the back of Arches National Park and an abundance of off road tracks and trails for Jeeps, ATV's, Motorbikes and even bicycles.

On arriving at the Bowen Motel at 2.30pm, I decide that the rear tyre on the bike will not make Tucson in another 1200 miles or so. 5750 miles is already a personal record for longevity. It is already on the tread warning bars. After discussion with Kevin, if I can find the right tyre here and skip the change in Tucson I should get to Bogota on the same rear. After making enquiries at the local off road hire shop, I ride 5 miles out of town to Arrowhead Motorsports on desert road. This turns out to be "Fred's" house with a large tin shed at the back. As I ride up the drive there is a chap unloading the boot of a Z06 Corvette. This is Fred. He has just (5 minutes ago) got back from vacation and is still getting cases from the boot of his car. Fred is the entire business and so when he is away it's shut. No problem he says, give him 5 minutes and we'll get the lights on and see what he has got in stock. I am happy to get any tyre that fits. However Fred has the tyre of choice, a Tourance, in stock. 15 minutes later I am riding back to Moab with the tyre over my arm to fit in the Motel Car park. This I do in 38C heat ably assisited by Jeff, prior to a cold beer or five. We then get the laundry done, have a nice chat to a chap in Zax bar (waiting for laundry next door) where we educate him that Newcastle Brown Ale (apparently big in the US) is called "Newky Brahn" and only drunk by Northern Monkeys. He is grateful for our enlightenment. Group meal tonight at Eddie Mc Stiffs and a very nice Cuban Marinated Steak.

It is a rest day in Moab and we spend the morning in Arches National Park, where the erosion of the sandstone has, yes you guessed it, formed arches. Very impressive, pretty, red etc. It almost starts to be too much to take in, so back to Moab for light lunch and afternoon of nothing at all. The dry heat at 38-40C is too much for any serious activity.

Left lovely Moab at 8'ish to try and avoid the hottest parts of the day, and after half an hour caught up with Kevin, Julia and Ed and Loraine. Kevin led and we rode a winding, twisiting highway that took us through the most beautiful, if not the most striking scenary of the trip. Mountains scattered with fir and scrub, red rocks and lakes, and the most enjoyable roads to share with a like minded rider. After a few miles it was just Kevin and Karen and I. 60mph on the straights meant time for scenery and the feel of a relaxed pace. About the same through the corners and hairpins, meant lovely focused lines and the stand and pegs scraping on both sides. The days riding was almost spritual and left me with a great feeling of well being. Tonight we are staying at te Mesa Verde National park in Cabins in the park. In the early evening heat we visit the cliff houses of the now long departed native indians called Cliff Palace, once home to three hundred people.

The early morning ride is flat and unexciting and takes us to the Four Corners Monument. This is the point on the map, and in the near desert, that Colorado, Utah, New Mexico and Arizona meet. It is rather a sad place. The point is shown on a large plate in the ground with each state flag flying in their quarter. However it is surrounded by wooden shacks where Navajo try to sell trinkets and water to the tourists. It has a distinct feeling of depressing hardship. Many more miles through the increasingly straight roaded desert until suddenly we arrive at a cliff edge. The precipise is 1100 hundred feet down as the whole world drops from one plateau to the next in a staggering sheer drop. We are looking down across hundreds of miles and seeing in the distance Monument Valley and more closely Valley of the Gods. Looking left or right the cliff face disappears from sight. Looking down could give any-one vertigo. However down is where we must go. Down the Mokee Dugway a three mile long series of hairpins to descend the 1100 feet to the valley(?) floor. Oh did I mention it is not tarmac'ed but loose gravel! After the descent we ride the Valley of the Gods road (17 miles more gravel) where the road drops through river beds and drainage ditches as well as over rocks and mounds. Karen is airborne on several occasions until she stands as well. In now 40C heat it is exhausting just doing 17 miles and we stop on three occasions. When finally back on tarmac we ride the last five miles to Mexican Hat. However on the way we stop for fuel and meet Mike and Allana. They are british riding a Ural and sidecar from Prudhoe to Ushaia and making a documentary along the way about relationships. "Going the distance" is their project name and they have a website of the same. Chatting to them they produce a video camera and Karen and I are interviewed about what we think is the key to our 20+ year relationship. If you check their website we may even be on it!

At Mexican hat we have a quiet night at the Motel and decide to get up very early the next day to see sunrise over Monument Valley. Out at 6am for two hours and back for breakfast. The sunrise is worth it. The red rocks and cartoon shapes come alive with the low sun and the shadows. The red rock is highlighted as opposed to bleached by the mid day sun. It is magnificent. After breakfast we ride back through Monument Valley. There is a 17 mile loop to John Ford Point but after a mile we decide the 6 inch deep sand is not a good idea and turn back. About 7 people do it with 4 fallers, but no injuries. Long straight desert roads are broken up by further edge of the world cliffs as the world either climbs to, or falls of a new plateau. As we close on the Grand Canyon National Park the roads get greener and more interesting as they twist and climb through forests to towards James Lake. This becomes very interesting as we hold out on the white line waiting to peel into a lovely right hand bend at 70+. As we start to drop the bike into the bend a deer appears on the apex of the bend and seems to stop to do her green cross code. Fortunately (some might say good riding) we can get down to walking pace by the time we are level with her, and she decides to not cross but to canter back into the woods!

James Lake is more log cabins, old and basic but charming. After a pleasent dinner and a few drinks, we are earlish to bed. Following day is a rest day allowing us to breakfast late and then ride off to the north rim and Cape Royal where the views over the Canyon defy belief. At 8.5 miles across you could lay Jersey lengthways across it and it would just touch both sides. The fall to the Colorado river is breathtaking. It is yet another diffiuclt to describe and difficult to catch in photo's place. However see photo for best try.

The afternoon is spent sitting in the gazebo at James Lake drinking beer and chatting with a changing group. Early dinner is on the cards, although we are a bit half cut by that time, as we have a 6am leave tomorrow to try and get the group into Tucson before 6pm to get all the bikes into Iron Horse BMW for their 6000 miles services. The long days ride is largely very pleasant although hot at 39C as we wind our way through Sedona and the desert avoiding the Interstates, Sedona has roundabouts! This is very unusual as the yanks normally have a four way stop where every-one just looks at each other until some-one goes. As we close on Tucson we also close on the most dramatic storm cloud, looking like the start of a hurricane. Quick stop to put valuables somewhere dry and safe (too hot to contemplate waterproofs) and we ride into the eye of the storm and find out what torrential rain really is. It's painful for a start and the water can't drain fast enough so we are quickly riding through inches of standing water. Out the other side and 20 minutes into Tucson and we are all but dry again. See attached video from Pauls bike - That is Karen and I !

We get to Tucson but the dealer is closed so will drop the bikes in tomorrow. Checked into the Sheraton, with nice rooms, pool, bar, restaurant etc for 4 days off while bikes are serviced and new tyres fitted. Adventure motorcycling at it hardest - not. However Saturday morning is the Mexico border crossing and then the adventure really begins......

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Photos

Arches National Park
They give it away in the title rather...

US 191
Colorful Colorado (Their spelling not mine)

Monument Valley
Riding off into the Sunset or actually Riding off away from the Sunrise.

Sunrise
6.13am Monument Valley

North Rim Grand Canyon
The "horizon" is the south rim of the canyon, a little over 8.5 miles away at this point.