HA Cruise, Westerdam -Alaska

---

Wednesday 26^th, Thursday 27^th, Friday 28^th April 2023

He certainly made the right call not to go to Kushiro!! There was a storm forecast for that area and we were just going to skirt around the edge of it! It was a wild night!! All balcony doors were locked, the storm wind whistling all night, gale force 11, and angry seas with 25ft waves! This lasted all night and all the next day and made moving around the ship quite difficult (the ship has excellent stabilisers!!) Then on the Friday we woke up to blue sky, blue sea and sun! The wind was still quite strong and there were white horses on the sea but a definite improvement. So far the clocks have been/going forward by 1hr a night which means a total of 3 hrs over 3 days so we have been getting up at 8.00am ish which is really like getting up at 5.00am ish!! We shall see what happens tomorrow when we cross the International Date Line.

Friday 28^th, Saturday 29^th, Sunday 30^th April 2023, Monday 1^st May 2023

Sea days!! Seven on the trot – and two Friday 28^th April because we crossed the International Date Line (and have a certificate to prove it!!) They were not as rough as the first day, but the sea was still pretty choppy but blue skies and sun! Too cold to sit on the balcony though – it also didn’t help as the clocks went forward an hour a day for seven days, so it seemed like we were getting up at midnight!!! Anyway, the seven days passed – we probably needed the rest, but not recommended!!!

Tuesday 2^nd May 2023 KODIAK 8.00am - 16.30pm

Woke up to a beautiful day, with snow on the mountains!! Yay, land at last!! Got off the ship by 10.00am ( the whole ship had to go through USA immigration!!) and caught the complementary School Bus into the centre. ( Kodiak had ery kindly offered use of two school buses as shuttles, from 9.30am – 13,30pm as they then had to pick children up from school!!) Got a map and walked up the main street opposite, turned right and went over the Fred Zharoff Memorial Bridge!, Fantastic views and the icing on the cake was a Bald Eagle who was posing on a lamppost!! Walked over to Near Island and the Northend Park with its beaches and trails. There was also a warning about bears saying that a bear had been seen on 12^th April 2023, but apparently the bears were still supposed to be in hibernation!!

Beautiful trail with loads of moss on the spruce tree branches which made it seem a bit like a fairy trail!!! Walked to a viewpoint and then down to a beach. Stunning views and reflections and sooooo peaceful. (not a bear in sight!!) I reckon we got ¾ of the way round but then retraced our steps!!

Explored the Church and Cathedral, we had seen from the bridge (Chris making friends with the Priest in the Greek Orthodox Church!!) and then went to the Kodiak Island Brewery, a small hand crafted beer distillery, bar and shop.

Walked back to the ship, via St Paul Harbor (dating back to 1792) the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Centre, a liquor store and a coffee shop!

A bit about Alaska – The land has been inhabited for 7,500 years by 20,000 Alutiit people, made up of the Tlingit, (clans: Raven and Eagle) Haida and Tsimshian tribes, before Russian contact in 1740, lured by the abundance of fur-bearing marine mammals – ie seals and sea-otters. The Alutiit people focused on harvesting fish and seaweed from the sea, and lived in large communities and held lavish festivals. The Russian and American conquest of Kodiak dramatically changed the way of living of the Aluliits as thousands died from sickness and hardship and many of the old traditions were lost. The USA purchased Alaska from the Russians in 1867.

The islands are anchored in the Aleutian Trench where the Pacific Plate slowly slips under the American Plate which yields tremors, earthquakes, and tsunamis. Kodiak Island is part of the Kodiak Archipelago – a large group of islands about the same size as Connecticut. Kodiak Island is the second largest island in USA (The largest being Hawaii) and is 1,588 square miles. St Paul Harbor is the largest (having about 1,000 fishing vessels) and one of the busiest commercial fishing harbors in America, fish being supplied to the Far East and the Dutch Harbor.

Wednesday 3^rd May 2023

A sea day!!

Thursday 4^th May 2023 SITKA 7.00am – 17.00pm

Chris woke me up at 5.30am to show me the wonderful photo of Mount Edgecombe (pronounced Mount Edge-com- bee!! ) Wonderful scenery going up the Sound of Sitka ­– snowy mountains, blue sky and sun with a bit of fog making it very atmospheric! We were the second couple off the ship at 7.30am (There was another ship in Port that day – Princess Discovery and we weren’t going to be allowed to disembark whilst it was being tied up – health and safety!)

Made our way to Sitka National Historical Park, going past the Russian Bishops House, which is where the Tlingit students and Russians took the first tentative steps toward mutual understanding., studying together in this house to become Orthodox priests. There were loads of birds on the beaches making a terrific noise and daffodils were just out – a very pleasant walk. Reached the Park by 8.00am (Visitors centre was shut!!) and started walking the totem pole trail. The totem poles ( or kooteeyaa in Tlingit!!) have all been gathered from Southeast Alaskan villages and they tell the stories and legends of bygone eras, the strength and wealth of a family and important events, such as births, deaths ( Mortuary poles are hollowed out to accommodate the cremated remains of the deceased) and marriages. Villages can be relocated but the totem poles are left standing in the former village. Though they are no longer inhabited, ancestral villages play an important part in confirming cultural identity and history and they maintain connections. The USA tried to ban the carving of totem poles in the late 19^th century but the tradition continued and carvers are now held in high esteem, as it takes a lot of preparation , skill, strength and co-ordination. They were never worshipped as religious objects.

Walked to the Tlingit Fort, just a large grassy area now as the wooden huts have long gone. The Fort was built to defend themselves from a Russian assault in 1802 so when the Russians came in 1804 they were ready for them. Unfortunately, after six days they ran out of ammunition and left the fort, the leader K’alyaan, burnt the fort and marched everyone north to Peril Strait. The Russians made Sitka their capital, but never felt completely safe amongst the Tlingit or secure in their position, so far from home and supplies. In the years since, Tlingit have held ceremonies and raised memorials to their ancestors who suffered in the conflict.

Walked across the bridge out to the road and to the Alaskan Raptor Centre, a rehabilitation centre for birds of prey. Saw about five bald headed eagles, all in various states of health, including Volta who has now retired and is living in the woods close to the river! He was rescued in 1992 and although most of his injuries have healed, his coracoid ((small bone in his shoulder) was damaged which means he cannot take flight from the ground or perch.

Walked back into town, via St Peters by the Sea church, the Cathedral, Alaska Pioneers Home to Baranof Castle, which is one of the most important landmarks in Alaska as it was the place where Russians, who had ruled Alaska for many years, signed over Alaska to USA in 1867 and it was made the 49^th state 92 years later. It used to be an island at high tide and is often called Castle Hill!

Walked to the Lutherian Cemetery ( nothing there!!) and an old Russian blockhouse (watch-tower!!) and then went to the Russian Cemetery. Not a Russian name in sight, but quite a peaceful wood with loads of birds!

Sitka’d out we joined the queue for the free shuttle (7 miles) back to the ship, watched the wonderful scenery going back out of the sound and were treated to a pod, yep loads of them, of hump backed whales, spouting and displaying!

Friday 5^th May 2023 KETCHIKAN 10.00am – 5.00pm

We were in no rush to get off the ship as we could see that there were four ships in port and it was a low cloud, misty, drizzly day! We were right in town and as we got off the ship was collared by someone offering a trip out of town!! This turned out to be a disaster as we drove along a main road, past a totem pole village that we didn’t go into, to a waterfall and then a viewing point for bears and salmon (there weren’t any) We did see some seals ( just unidentifiable heads!!) and a bald eagle. Back in town for 13.00pm. The trip also included a 10$ entry for to Dollys House on Creek Street, the red light district of the town. Dollys house, a madam of the brothel, and is a perfectly restored house of that era!! Creek street became a red light district in 1902 and was shut down by the authorities in 1954 when most of the ladies left town, retired, moved to other neighbourhoods or went underground. Walked up the Married Mens trail, saw the fish ladder (no salmon!) and walked to the Totem Heritage Centre to learn a little bit more about totem poles.

As the City Park was next to it, we went across the bridge to the small pools (holding ponds for salmon in the 1900s) fountain and old trees! Wandered back down to the ship.

Saturday 6^th May 2023

Sea Day!! Saw a whale splashing about!!

My thoughts about Holland America – Westerdam is quite a small…ish ship so easy to find your way around and no hidden surprises. Lots of seating. It felt a very safe ship with excellent staff, especially the Captain . and Cruise Director, Rachel. Meals were quite small in the dining room, but big enough – upstairs you could get anything you wanted. There was always food available. Lots of American people!!

---