Xico, parks and civilization

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Today I got out of the city which did me some good - on local intertown bus, went to town of Xico (about 17 km away and another world) and then to small city of Coatepec (about 12 km away). Area around here is beautiful - in foothills of mountains (peaks are usually covered by cloud) and very lush - a combination of temperate and tropical - I believe coffee, and green, and plaintains or bananas and flowers blooming. The bus ride as always was interesting with a mariachi band who got on and played for donations part of the way, and the ticket collector who sells tickets to different locations after you get on, and people getting on with buckets as you got further out - more of a schoolbus with comfortable seats.

I first went to the small town of Xico - about 6000 people and the further of the 2 - passing lushness on the way, but the town itself, like most colonial towns has little green inside. Still a large chuch (surprise, surprise - with the way the bus driver drove on the way back I´m glad I visit enough churches and that they (like taxis) often have a picture of a saint or jesus or a cross on the dashboard or hanging from the mirror) and I stumbled across a religious festival/procession of some sort - I wish I spoke more spanish because although I asked one of the indegenous women, I did not understand her answer except something about saints and 19 March. A smaller chuch stands up some stairs at the edge of town - people were gathered on the stairs and the sidewalk, and a priest was standing at the top of the wide stairs (about 2 stories tall) which were mainly covered by this large item of wood covered with shells that was being blessed by people with urns of smoking incense and some women had these little hats, and a mariachi band played and stopped, and then some men walked around this piece and there were two men holding poles that had a basket of flowers hanging in between, and a man was selling mexican firecrackers that were being set off, and then a procession began after boys wearing cowbells around their waists did a little walk/dance, and then two men picked each of the two front sections of the item and and they followed the flower guys and behind them came this item - took about 10 men on each side to carry it, followed by the cowbells and then the priest and then mariachi players and then people gathered on the sidewalk and went through town as they walked fireworks continued to be lit.

Otherwise the town was very quiet with little traffic, a few people milling about, some guys with white hats riding horses and horses tied together and another with mules on some of the streets, a horse tied up outside a house, and kids kicking a ball on cobblestone streets, and many dogs (here and in Jalapa and Coatepec especially aroung markets - as many places - a number of dogs just roaming, being dogs -they are cuter in this area that in the Yucutan -bigger, fluffier, not as thin.

Walked aroung the empty town then went to Coatepec a city of about 50,000 - nice zocollo very treed, an interesting market where most of the indegenous people were seen (though a few campasinos wandering with hats or baseball caps and small machetes at their sides (in cases). An orange chuch, and another ornate church with chandeliers (like the cathedral here in Jalapa). Had lunch overlooking the square (eat my main meal at lunch since especially on weekdays are good value comida del dia (or comida corridor) - set meals with soup or sometimes pasta, main course, beans, tortillas,desert or coffee and often a drink (like koolaid) - in Jalapa and veracruz about 27-35 pesos, in this place was more as in prime location.

Then back in Jalapa went to the library which has some English books since I´ve been longing to read and am out of books.

Yesterday in town went to the excellent anthropology museum with history of the Olmecs (about 1200-400 bs) and their huge sculpted heads, and other works of art, and VeraCruz civilizations that came later (its funny how we group pre-hispanic cultures together - even in same region - for they rose and declined with areas abandoned, over a period of over 2500 years before spanish came - much longer than about 500 years since. Got me thinking again about remains of civilizations, and what north american civilizations are leaving behind, and how it will be interpreted 1500 years of so in the future. Most of what we see are relgious and ruler artifacts, what will be left of ours. And while we look at ruins, many towns and cities are build over old indegenous cities (for this area had alot of cities and was urban), and many churches were built on bases of old pyramids and places of worship. And riding out of cities and towns, I often think about how ugly much of the modern sprawl is, but then asked myself was the old really any prettier as we build on top of the old, and raze much or the simpler old building, or they are abandoned, and what we attempt to preserve are the splendid important buildings (when we do that). The museum was excellent,

The traffic was getting to me, so I sought out some parks in the afternoon - and Xalapa has alot of beautiful parks, one with fountains on a side of a hill, another with a waterfalls and streams and paths and lushness, and benches all around , kids, people alone, the ever present armorous young couples (and there are alot of them making out). Then went to market where beyond the usual there were lots of dried (hot) peppers (piles and piles of different peppers) and mole being sold out of vats. Had enchilada with mole both last night and today. Food is somewhat different here - mole, and often pickled carrots, jalapenos and onions served with sandwiches and dishes, and not the limes with everything (i think)- yes hot sauce/salsa, couldn´t eat without that - and find the tortillas better - and decent coffee around. and more vendors selling nuts (served with lime and chili powder).

Last night went out for dinner with two american guys (travelling seperately) who have been here for a couple of weeks, both older - one about my age, one probably 50, on longer trips - one from Texas on indefinate global travel until Bush gets out, another in Mexico (has travelled alot in Asia) until money runs out - several months. Nice interacting again and having english conversations.

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