La Dia de los Muertos

---

We arrived in Oaxaca early on the 1st of November. Even in Chiapas we had seen posters advertising Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, it was supposed to be a massive event. It had been so busy that we were unable to find any hostels with online availabilty before we left San Cristobal. Fortunately our Swedish friend Daniel had checked into a hostel the previous day, and had been able to make a reservation for us too. We would be staying at Casa de Don Pablo, and it turned out to be a really great place.

Upon arriving in Oaxaca we were surprised. From what we had read on the city we thought we were headed somewhere even more quaint than San Cristobal- we had expected to be stepping back in time to see ladies dying materials and weaving hammocks on the streets, and men drinking beer and chewing tabacco leaves outside swing-door saloons. We had been completely misguided. We pulled up into the most plush bus station that we had visited so far, and stepped outside into an a city which had a very modern feel to it.

We headed straight to our hostel to shower and get ready for the day. As we drove through the streets we were surprised that although it was around 8am no doors were open, and the city was still asleep. We knew that Day of the Dead is kind of a national holiday, but there seemed to be no festivities at all; there was no excitement in the air like San Cristobal. we continued to our hostel where we met Daniel and a lovely South African couple who had been living in London for 10 years prior to travelling. It is really strange that so many people that we have met here in Mexico are within their first month of a long trip, similar to ourselves.

Anyway, we decided to head out to find some chocolate factories at the recommendation of the South African couple. We walked for quite a while in the heat and first found some indoor markets where we had a quick breakfast, then we headed off to find the chocolate factories. There were numerous chocolate factories dotted along one road near the centre of the city. In these factories, workers were beating down cocoa beans and mix these with other ingredients in a cement-mixer urn type oven to create all sorts of chocolate delights. The chocolate all seemed to be dark to our disappointment, however this didn't prevent us from trying a few free samples that were shoved in our mouths at every turn. In Mexico there seems to be a nationwide fixation with a certain food known as mole. It is absolutely disgusting, and is a combination of chocolate mixed with hot chilies. It comes served as a brown sauce and is generally eaten with meat, but we have seen it advertised also with fish, or as a dip for nachos. Sometimes it even comes as an unwelcome side instead of the equally unwelcome side of frijoles with a dusting of Oaxacan cheese.

After a swift glass of choco milk to rid the taste of mole, we decided to head to the Zocalo. Like every other city we had visited so far, this did not disappoint. There were all kinds of stalls selling crafts, balloons, clothes, toys, milkshakes, toffee apples etc. We walked around and looked at the Cathederal which was really pretty. Although there were festivities here, they still did not seem to have any bearing towards Halloween or death. Apart from the shrines set up all over the city (including entrances to hotels/hostels/shops etc) there didn't seem to be much associated with death at all. We spent the rest of the day looking round the local markets, stopping for beers, and also hit the jackpot with the grand accomplishment of finding our first french fries outside of a McDonalds. They literally do not seem to eat potatoes here in Mexico; there's no mash, roast potatoes, chips, fries, boiled potatoes, baked.. nothing.

We headed back to the hostel to prepare for the big night at the cemetery. This was the reason we had come to Oaxaca; as apparently all the big celebrations take place at night in the cemeteries. At the hostel we sat and had a few beers and chatted with the various other travellers who had come to celebrate the same occasion. We needed to take a taxi to the cemetery, so hailed one outside the hostel. We were a little surprised when the driver agreed to take SEVEN passengers in his average sized 5 seater estate. It was really funny as we literally piled ourselves on top of each other- the police didn't bat an eyelid as our driver beeped them out of the way. We arrived at the cemetery and it was like the fair from Polyanna minus the American flags. There was hook-a-duck, shoot the tin cans, candy floss, and a mini wheel etc. There were however also reminders of the Mexican presence as there were armed police men and women. We were not really sure what their job was in this instance as they were more than willing to tell our very drunk friend where he could purchase his next bottle of tequila.

All of the stalls were situated on the outside of the cemetery, lining the path to the entrances. We eventually made it inside, and it was really very pretty. There were hundreds of candles lighting every hole in the wall surrounding the graves. The graves themselves were over the top, beyond comprehension in some instances. There were a lot of stone built house graves, although we guess they really can't be called graves, they were more like tombs. They had double glazed doors and windows, red carpets, some even had dining tables and thrones. We even saw some that had a second storey. Judging by the condition of every residential dwelling we have seen so far in Mexico, they definitely believe that you are to be rewarded after death.

Whilst at the cemetery we were really surprised at how laid back the Mexican people are. The graveyard was humming, completely packed with locals and tourists (but mostly Mexican). Many people were dressed in really crazy Halloween costumes- they had gone all out for the occasion. One Mexican guy who our friend offered some tequila to, peeled back his mask to reveal a second one underneath. What really surprised us was the fact that so many people seemed to be getting completely hammered- and not just the young people. We got chatting to a Mexican man who was at the cemetery with his 14 year old daughter, and he was downing Mezcal and Tequila with our friends like there was no tomorrow. And he was having a real laugh about it. Some of the tourists were being quite loud and drunk and were walking across and lying on the graves, but the Mexican people just didn't seem to care, they were laughing along, and out enjoying themselves too, not caring what other people were doing. They are just so laid back- it is so refreshing.

After the cemetery we returned to our hostel, Katie had eaten the hottest quesidella ever, and it had made her sick. The next day we didn't do a lot, we just hung around the hostel watching films on the netbook as we were not feeling great. On the evening we took a walk to the zocalo to see what was going on, but the celebrations were not as big as the previous night. We planned to leave early the next morning for Peurto Escondido as we were already missing the beach.

---

Comments

[zena]

=)
Hostel looks lovely!! and the christmas tree waterfall looked amazing!!! xxx