Day Three, Oaxaca

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Day Three
We are just taking it easy today after all the driving and checking out the historic center of Oaxaca which centers around the Zocolo, the main plaza. We are fortunate because today happens to be the 3rd anniversary of major protests here in favor of better pay for teachers. The protesters occupied the Zocolo for months hoping to force the governor of Oaxaca State to resign. They neither received the pay raise nor saw the governor leave office. What did happen though was a lot of violence and the deaths of 23 protesters—supposedly the biggest political protest that has occurred in Mexico in many years. We got to watch a protest march and a lot of leftist speech-making led by the teachers union. We also got to witness a lot of vandalism—political graffiti on shop walls and signs—total lack of respect for private property for which there is no excuse, ever (one of my personal pet peeves). I’m not real thrilled with destruction of public property either since I’m a taxpayer, but if your problem is with the government then direct your protest actions against the government.
Anyway, off my soap box. Besides the Zocolo, we went over to the Dominican Church of Santo Domingo which was rather impressive. Its roof and walls are decorated in 3-D relief and much of the designs are intricately colored and gilt.
We had both lunch and dinner at the dinner at the Zocolo, sampling two of the nice restaurants there. Since Oaxaca is the land of the seven moles and is known for its cuisine, I tried the chicken with black mole for lunch and beef with yellow mole for dinner. Both very good, but I think I’ll stick more with the black mole sauce. I bought a couple of jars to bring back, my first souvenirs.
We are going to check out the valleys outside Oaxaca on Monday, heading for the Zapotepec ruins at Monte Alban just outside the city as well as the several small towns in which they make the crafts we saw on sale around the Zocolo: black pottery, brightly colored little figurines originally made from paper mache but now made of wood called alebrijes, cotton textiles and rugs. We tried the mezcal around the Zocolo, which is made from 9-10 year old agave leaves (agave plants and cactus are all over in the mountains around Oaxaca) but are not impressed enough to check out the little towns most famous for it or to buy a bottle. We are waiting for our Tequila Train experience next Sunday in Guadalajara (tequila is also made from agave leaves, but those leaves are not as old).

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Photos

Graffiti says it all
Governor Ruiz to jail for murder and repression.

Alebrijes vendor
Going to try and pick up some of these for the kids when we get to the town where they are made.

Alebrijes close-up
I think this guy looks pretty cool

Iglesia de Santo Domingo
This is a bit over 400 years old.

Silver jewelry shop
Not sure why someone would want a silver skeleton or where you would hang him--a bit too long for the rear view mirror--but he looks pretty cool.