Un Beso Oaxaqueño

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Well, okay then. A number of people have asked about food. I will admit to three daily foibles. In the front of Pitico there is a sorbet counter, usually two highschool-aged girls run it. These sirens wait at the edge of the cashier station with teensy plastic spoons on a tray that have tastes of the flavors in stock. They know me now, and know I need no temptation. They don't always have the pistachio and cream that is my weakness, but I'm easily convinced to try something else; tamarindo, grape, 'tuna' (cactus fruit), hibiscus. I stear away from capuccino or chocolate. For some reason they find it funny that I only ever want one flavor, even when I get the size that has a half-dozen scoops. "¡Puro!"and they laugh. So, the other day when there was no pistachio, I went for 'Un Beso Oaxaqueño' - A Oaxacan Kiss - thank you Sam Ace for getting me to my 'ñ'. It is made with a type of wild apple, carrots, pecans, and cream. Heavenly. That's one.
Then there are peanuts roasted with whole cloves of garlic and small chili pods till they're all crunchy, then salted. Homemaid, it is sold from buckets, or it can be found in packages, with a little additional packet of hot sauce. That's two.
Then there is Tejate, a prehispanic Zapotec drink made from corn, ccacao, somekind of seed, a honey-like sweetner, and the flowers from the 'Huayapam' tree. It's tan colored, and is sold from large 3-gallon-ish, green glazed pots in the Jusrez market. What's odd looking about it is that there is this tiny curd layer that floats on the top of the liquid, that in the good places may be a couple of inches thick. The vendor is constantly dipping a gourd bowl in and pouring it back in from a height to keep it mixed it up. It is served in a gourd bowl that has been painted fire engine red. Usually there is a bird, often a white swan, and designs painted on the inside, and flowers with designs painted on the outside. Since the gourd is a half round, a braided reed circle acts as a foot. It also comes with a wooden paddle, to stir it with and to gather up the curd.
I have no idea what the curd is, but it has a light, slightly sweet, nutty-buttery flavor. The girl at the stand where I usually get it is a little shy, but since she sees me at least every other day, I'll eventully find out what it is. That's three. No more confessions.
Maybe its being in a new place, but everything seems to have an incredibly intense flavor, like it's the essence of what it is. I have no idea where it has come from, but I've begun making this high-pitched 'moo-ing' sound when eating - actually a little embarassing. If we do eat out its usually for lunch, and we look for a local, out of the way place. We've discovered two particularly good places that specialize Oaxacan dishes. Tim had a deep, almost charcoal black mole that was slightly bitter. All soups are incredible, one in particular, a roasted garlic and pistachio cream soup. A large poblano chili in a cream sauce stuffed with pork, spiced potatoes, raisins, clove, and pomegranate seeds - it looked like the Mexican flag. One place started with freshly fried chips, a thin salsa that was over the top, and a crumble made of fish and spices. I didn't recognise the name of the fish, but it tasted like anchovies. Since I began eating mole negro straight out of the bag, in paste form, I have a hard time eating it any other way...
Migration was a nightmare yesterday, but I got my five day extention, after signing at least 15 pages of I don't know what. I rented a red VW bug for the week, to go to outlying towns, markets, and ruins.
For the time being the people and the police are quiet and calm, just five blocks apart.

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Photos

Tejate Stand
The prehispanic Zapotec drink from the flower of the Huayapam tree

A potter
in the middle of town, I discovered on my way back from the bank on the way to Migration

Stencil Graffiti
amazing detail