Spanish Classes in Oaxaca - October 2011

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October 21st 2011

Published: October 30th 2011

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blancheque

Cost of Living in Mexico

We bought all these fruits and vegetables at the market for $15.43, using today's exchange rate. Our power bill for August and September was $10.25. Cable and high speed internet $39.25. 2 cell phones per month is $7.40

Change----for some it may mean fear---for others it can mean opportunity!

Mary, a former ASF employee, now Executive Director of English Publishing with a company called Santillana International was delighted when told that Linda was no longer teaching. She arranged to meet with us. Linda was very excited to be offered a job authoring teacher guides and student activities. Using existing novels, she'll be creating materials more in line with the IB approach to teaching and making use of modern technology! We will both be able to work on this from anywhere in the world, from our home computer.

Learning Spanish was high on our agenda now that we are retired. Friends had been to Spanish classes in Oaxaca and had stayed with a family while there. They highly recommended we give it a try, and we thought, "What a good idea." We had been to Oaxaca last fall, and really enjoyed the ambiance of the city and the valley. On Sunday we boarded a bus at noon and were soon out of the city on our very scenic 6 hour trip. Mexico City sits at 7500 feet above sea level in a bowl. We climbed to over 10,000

The instituto Cultural de Oaxaca

Adults and some children from around the world come to take classes, from 1 week to 5 months

feet through mountains as we exited the city. We traveled through farmland for another hour or so. Then it was back into green mountains, followed by an hour or more of driving through semi-arid desert, onto more very rugged mountains, then dropping down into the Oaxaca valley and finally into the city itself. Because of our research on Google Earth, we knew we could simply walk from the bus depot, pass by the ICO School, and find our way safely to our homestay. We had advised Doris, our hostess, via email, that we would be arriving between 6:30 and 7, and we were right on time. She was there to greet us and show us through her home and to our bedroom, home for the next 2 weeks.

Doris and her husband Remigio are about our age and have lived most of their lives in Oaxaca. They have 3 children and 7 grandchildren, so we had a lot in common. Remigio owns an insurance agency, and Doris boards students that study at the Oaxaca Institute. We paid $25 US per night, and $5 each per day for meals. The family is to provide a Mexican atmosphere for the students

Beautiful Campus

Campus covers about a city block and has pretty gardens and private alcoves

by encouraging only Spanish speech, and providing authentic Oaxaquenian cuisine. Doris was a master at putting delicious home made cuisine before us. Monday morning, our new routine began. Breakfast at 8:15, and then we'd be off to school for classes which began at 9. A small break for coffee at 10:30 was followed by more classes lasting until noon. We then had an hour of informal Spanish conversation with teacher and classmates. That was followed by one on one conversation with a local person from the community (intercambio). These volunteers came to the school to improve their English while helping us learn Spanish. About 2:30 we were expected back at our homestay for comida, the main meal of the day, which consisted of at least 4 courses of authentic Oaxacan dishes. All conversation was in Spanish. We had to be back at the school at 4 for 2 hours of Salsa dance class, again all in Spanish. At six, we would leave the school and grab a beer and a light snack on our way back to our homestay. We'd do homework for an hour or two, check emails, Skype our family and friends, enjoy a sip of mescal with

Conversation Groups

From 12 to 1PM, we would leave the classroom, sit outside and practice our Spanish

Remigio and Doris (Remigio would refer to this as our "sombrero noche") and lo and behold, the day would be done!

On Saturday, we decided to repeat the tour we had taken last year. Last year, because the road had been washed away due to the heavy rains, we hadn't been able to see the Cascades de Hierve el Agua. A van picked us up at 10 in the morning and along with 10 others we were taken to see the Arbol de Tulle. It is a 2000 and something year old tree and has the largest circumference in the world. We drove to the tapestry weavers and this year, we were able to understand most of the Spanish presentation. Next we stopped at the same mezcaleria as last year. They had over 20 different flavors and ages of mezcal. When they realized that we bought several bottles last year, they began filling the little tasting cups and insisted we try ALL of the flavors. 20 minutes later, we staggered back to the van with another 5 bottles in our arms. Luckily, lunch was next with a whole room full of food for the buffet, it was fantastic! We

Martha, from Fresno, California

Martha was staying at Doris's as well. We enjoyed her company while doing homework

had a short drive to see the ruins of Mitla (the oldest known palliative care facility in the world, over 2000 years old). Then we were off for the longer drive up into the mountains to see the lime crystallized waterfalls. It was perfect for a 45 minute nap while we were being driven up along narrow, unpaved roads. When we arrived, what a sight! The lime laden water flows slowly out of the side of the mountain, then gathers in pools, and finally falls over the edge of the cliff creating a crystallized limestone waterfall. They were spectacular! There are only 3 of these types of waterfalls in the world, this one, another one in the state of Oaxaca, and a third one in Turkey. We were thrilled, and took many pictures as we walked over the colorful deposits. On our way back to the city, another adventure followed. Once down from the twisting, narrow, mountain road we were a on nice highway. The driver slowed down, veered off the road through the ditch and drove back up onto another highway. He then explained that even though this highway was closed and under construction, he knew we could get

Everybody doing homework

An English teacher comes in 3 times a week to teach Remigio and Doris English. We all had homework to do.

through and save about a half hour of driving. We saw why they were rebuilding. There were many boulders the size of cars that had fallen down from the mountain and onto the road in several places; however, we still had room to maneuver around them. The road then dropped about 18 inches to a surface that was going to be paved at some point. We drove on this for a while, got back onto a highway and were back in Oaxaca around 6:30 in the evening.

Sunday, Remigio and Doris took us out for comida to one of the largest buffets we have ever seen, serving over 130 different dishes, including a complete roasted pig, nose to tail. The buffet was delicious! Remigio claims Maurice ate 129 of those dishes.

The following week, we worked hard at school as well as at our homestay on our Spanish, practicing at every opportunity with our family. They also took advantage of our English to improve their speaking skills, and we became very good friends. Thursday evening, they hosted us at one of their favorite watering holes at the Zocalo. It was obvious to us that they were well known

Doris and Remigio

Our homestay hosts, they insisted we speak only Spanish.

and very highly respected in their local community. The restaurant "Capitan" hovered nearby all evening, and made sure we were well looked after by the staff. Friday morning, we bid them a fond farewell.

After our classes were finished on Friday, we boarded a bus for the 6 hour ride to Veracruz. Another very scenic drive!

We arrived safely at our waterfront hotel around 10 PM, settled in and went for a walk to investigate and familiarize ourselves with this port city. This is where Cortez landed in 1519. It is the oldest port in North America. Saturday morning, we took the turibus tour to see the city. Later we caught a cab and headed to the Acuario, Veracruz's world class aquarium. What a unique experience, walking through glass tunnels while the fish swam all around us. We were able to gaze into the numerous tanks containing a fascinating variety of fish from all over the world. Outside at the dolphin tank we got to watch a training exercise.

We hit the beach, only a short walk away. There we enjoyed the warm gentle water, hard clean sand, excellent fresh shrimp cocktails, great views and the fresh

In Linda's Class

Classes 9 to 12, then conversational practice till 2, comida at home in Spanish, dance in Spanish and homework in the evening

warm breeze coming off the gulf. We spent a few hours there amid the peddlers and the families enjoying the sun and the water. A short cab ride back to the hotel for a shower and then we were off to find authentic Veracruzian fish for supper. We came upon more than a hundred older couples dancing in the Zocalo. We were too young for THAT crowd of slow salsa dancers. After visiting many restaurants and bars we finally found exactly what we were looking for. Yummy!

On Sunday we just had to visit the "Cafe de la Parroquia" the most famous restaurant in all of Mexico which just happened to be around the corner from our hotel! Their coffee is famous and we discovered why. First, they bring very hot espresso in a normal sized cup, and then a young man makes quite a show filling it with very hot milk poured from as high as his arms will reach. The coffee was delicious, the food was terrific, and the music, the dancing and the crowds created an unforgettable ambiance. How can you not love Mexico? Sunday morning, 10 AM, a warm gentle breeze soothes our skin, we

On the Way to School

I am returning last nights beer bottle to the tienda 3 doors down. 1.2 litre bottle net cost $1.80

sit in the shade, no mosquitoes or bugs of any kind bother us, a live band plays and a traditional dancer circulates through the crowd. Strangers stop to wish us "Bon Proveche" and inquire where we are from. Wow!

We visited several museums, and particularly enjoyed the old fort with it's cannons still facing the port. Of nine original forts, this is one of only two that remain today. Then, it was off to the bus station for the 6 hour scenic ride back to DF. We arrived to our Mexican home safe and sound after being away for 2 weeks.

Monday morning, we met again with Mary. We were given our first task and submitted our work on Friday. We met again the following Tuesday, received feedback, and were involved in choosing a novel that will be used, given the specifics required, and a deadline. We went to work feverishly......well, kinda, and were able to meet the Friday deadline. We'll be taking our job with us on our upcoming travel adventure.

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