Chiapaneros

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Chiapas is by far the best state in Mexico so far! I love it here.... I arrived in San Christóbal de Las Casas about four weeks ago on an overnight-first-class-freezing bus from Oaxaca. Immediately I loved it here. San Christóbal aside from being politically interesting (Zapatistically) is situated in the Chiapan mountains at about 2500 meters. Its a charming town complete with colonial streets and a hippie vibe. The only thing more beautiful than the views from the roof are the people I have met in this city. 😊

The first day I arrived I was walking thru the mercado looking for a cheap food vendor. I was approached by a friendly local who was packing up his crafts for the day. When I explained I was looking for food he immedialty invited me back to eat with them at their house. Being a single woman in Mexico I was a little leary but I followed my intuition and it was well worth it. I was fed a delicious local meal in a home where there was one common outdoor kitchen, one bathroom and several rooms surrounding. I was honored to be invited into their home. I left before dark and witnessed one of the most gorgeous sunsets ever!

The following few days in San Christóbal were filled with meeting various other artists in the market. This town has a definite political and spiritual vibe that I love. It reminds me of Portland a little. After a few days I felt it was time to move on to southern Chipas: Izapa, a mayan ruin very close to the Chipan-Guatemalan border was calling me. I read about it being the possible site of the invention of the Mayan Long Count calendar, you know, the one that ends in 2012.

I traveled to Tapachula, a sweaty bustling town where I think I was one of maybe 5 gringos. Felt a little like a spectacle there. But I was there for a reason so, after finishing the chapter on Izapa in my book on mayan astronomy, I took a day trip to the 2000 year old jungle ruins. There I saw several stelas (art on carved rock) depicting their mythological representations of the solar-galactic center convergence to take place on December 21, 2012. Also the end date of their calendar. The ruins at Izapa have not been fully excavated and much of it is overgrown and hidden in the jungle. Which made some of it a little hard to appreciate especially in the sweltering heat of mid day. Overall it was impressive to see a site contructed over 2000 years ago that had such influence on surrounding and later Mayan sites. Izapa has a ball court situated directly toward the eastern winter solstice horizon and an altar looking down the court. I snuck onto the altar and meditated there since I was the only person around. 😊

Then it was off to the beach on the Ciapan coast. Puerto Arista was the most tranquil town I have visited yet. Nothing going on. It was great to unwind. Nothing to do but swim and look for something to eat a couple times a day. My favorite sights in Puerto Arista: a ladder held together by wires... a 7 year old driving his sister on a four-wheeler... cows sauntering on the beach... 17km of coast from the top of the lighthouse... my first view of the southern cross costellation during the new moon...

I ended up volunteering a the Encampamento Tortuguero which is a turtle preservation camp. They collect the eggs from nests and keep them safe from poachers until the turtles hatch... Releasing them into the pacific at night. I was at the camp in Puerto Arista for a few days and got to help release about 30 little turtles one night. So cute! I then moved to the camp in Boca del Cielo, the next beach south. Boca del Cielo is a gorgeous location. The mountains go right up to the coast. Plus, just off the coast is the 40 km long island of San Marcos, where I was staying. This island is about 100 meters wide where I was. So, the front yard is the bay looking toward the mainland and mountains. And the back yard is the pacific ocean. Paradise!

The turtles are coming into season soon, but I was there a little early so we only encountered a couple nests both of which had been robbed. This pissed me off and I wanted to stay and help longer but I felt there was nothing for me to do and I wasn't saving any turtles. I felt guilty staying there for free, doing so little, plus I got my first bout of food poisoning! UGH! So I left the coast and headed back inland.

After arriving back in San Chritóbal, I ran into a friend I met the first time I was in town. He and I headed up to San Juan Chamula, a little indiginous village in the hills about 30 minutes away. There we climbed a hill overlooking the village. How gorgeous! I spent a few more days in the city watching live music and enjoying the self expressiveness of the people there.

Currently I am staying about 2k from the ruins of Palenque... sleeping in a hammock in the jungle, eating bannans and mangos off the trees, and learning ariel silks. (acrobatics in the air hanging from silk material) This place has great energy and I may stay here a little while. I hope to visit the ruins tomorrow... my friend knows the back way through the jungle.

I appologize for the lack of pictures. I think my compact flash card has a virus... no computers will open the files on it. I know the pictures are there, just have to figure out how to access them... Until then its just my words and your imagination!

Love to all!





What I'm searching for? To tell it straight I'm trying to build a wall.
Walking by myself down avenues, I reak of time to kill.
.....
I can say I hope it will be worth what I give up.
If could stand up mean for all the things that I believe.
.....
What am I here for? I left my home to dissapear is all.
I'm here for myself, not to know you I don't need no one else.
.....
Change, change, change.
I want to get up out of my skin.
Tell you what if I can shake it I'ma make this something worth dreaming of.

-Santogold L.E.S. Artistes

ps i felt this song was more appropriate last week when i started to write this blog... still good though 😊

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Comments

[Juley]

Hi Gretch!
I loved your entry this time...I love Chiapas, too. They have the best coffee in the world--I don't know if you drink it, but it's like nectar of the Gods. Also--I just want to say that I am so envious of you getting to see the Southern Cross. It's one of the items on my bucket list--so cool! Take care and thanks for the great imagery!! Love to you!